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Possibly moving to NJ. Thoughts?

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O. Van Horn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 60

I recently received acceptance to graduate school in New Jersey. There is a strong possibility that I may end up there next Fall. It will be a bummer to leave California, I know. I will likely be in northern New Jersey, specifically Madison.

I am looking for information on two things:
1) Crags. What's around? What's it like? How does it compare? (I know that it is not CA...)
2) Housing. Everything I've seen is terribly expensive. Do y'all have any tips about finding housing in the NE? I am on a dirtbag budget.

Let me know if you have any tips, etc.!

Thanks in advance!

Brian Monetti · · New York, NY · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 322

I lived a few miles from Madison growing up, and now live in Manhattan.

1) Crags: The Gunks. Great climbing, huge crowds. The tallest climbs there are on the order of 300', so its no Yosemite in terms of long routes, but there are hundreds of amazing climbs all within a 20 minute walk from where you park. From Madison, its probably a bit over an hour.

You can also go to the Delaware Water Gap. Its bit more rugged feeling than the Gunks, and chossier, but there are still tons of worthwhile climbs to do there.

People also take longer trips up to NH, which make great 3 day weekend trips, or 2 day ones if you dont mind not sleeping. There is a huge amount of climbing there, with lots of variation, from bouldering at Pway, hundreds (thousands?) of bolted lines at Rumney, to long committing routes at Cannon.

There are also a few great gyms near Madison. The Gravity Vault in Chatham stands out, and has a really good community of regulars.

And if you want to get on some really big routes, you can drive to Newark Airport and be anywhere in the country within a few hours!

2) Housing: Morristown, not far from Madison, has a pretty solid community of young professional types, and a bunch of good bars. You might find some cheaper places there, but hard to say. Madison is definitely a bit pricy as far as suburbs go.

Shoot me a PM if you have any more questions, or are looking for someone to climb with once you get out here!

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

I'm sorry.

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

Seriously, I'm sorry.

But also, the Gunks are just up the road. The Adirondacks are about 4-5 hours away. Ice climbing in the Catskills. About 45 minutes further than the Gunks. NH is doable for a long weekend.

And Seneca is a bit of a haul, but a nice alternative (closer than NH, I think. a little further than the Daks).

ascender30 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 180

Step 1: Do NOT, EVER live in New Jersey
Step 2: If you cannot control Step 1, and love serious trad climbing...then find an experienced Seneca Rocks climber, and go with them. Best place on earth.

:)

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

I'm sorry too.

Grad school is really overrated anyway...

The good news is that you are from CA, so likely have no idea to drive; you'll fit right in on NJ highways.

ralph stover in another option. its a little closer than the gunks. The only problem is that it is shale, which as far as i am concerned, resembles hard mud way to closely.

Aunt Patty · · Fryeburg, ME · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 116

Sorry dude, just getting that out of the way!

Grew up in Sussex county, got introduced to climbing at NJRG and they have Greta bouldering. Check out Allamuchy for some fun top rope and trad in NJ. Unfortunately, bolting is illegal in the garden state so you won't find any god crags. The linez offer a few good sports routes tho that are grandfathered in.

Check out the Kay guard crag in high point state park tho! A bunch of my co workers from NH and I cleaned some routes there for TR and they are pretty fun for jersey standards.

But as someone said above me NH is worth worth trip... I lived just south of Romney and nnin in North Conway for the ladt five years. Check it out. Such incredible and beautiful climbing.

Enjoy your stay in NJ tho! Feel free to PM me with any questions. Like I said, grew up there. Cheers!

Dan Austin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

There is surprisingly good bouldering at the Sourlands, about an hour south of Madison, near Princeton. But yeah, basically you have the Gunks, then the Daks, then NH and WV.

The Gravity Vault in Chatham is the best gym in the area IMO, and nice and close to Madison to boot! People there are nice and you can find a good crew, especially if you're interested in bouldering.

Only other recommendation -- go to the Village Trattoria in Summit. Best pizza in NJ. Sandwiches at the Summit Cheese Shop are also PRIMO. I lived in Summit for a few years, and although the Morris/Essex county area is far from a climber's paradise, it's not that bad for what it is. Very suburban, but there are some nice mellow outdoorsy things to do, and easy access to NYC if that's your thing.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

In Madison there is an outdoor shop that sells climbing gear and chalk and has done so for at least thirty years. It is probably still called Blue Ridge Mnt Sports.
That Could be a hint that there is some climbing around.
Some spots are only closed by imagination!
Others are great bolted sport climbs fenced off and posted,so tread lightly if you find rock climb it.
The level of the general knowledge of the opportunities for outdoor climbing from a home base in Madison seems greatly limited.

That having been said, Just over the hill 15 miles? one town over toward route 22, Is The best closed open rock,it is on Dimond Hill road in New Providence,

The Gravity Vault on River road in Chatham?
I can not say much about the indoor scene. That it is huge and seems okay.
A painting of a random Gunks corner by an old climber named Doug Alcock, stands out. The textures, variety of holds and air quality were excellent. The structure had been a vaulted tennis club,so is very well suited for a climbing gym.
There is a lot of small rock around and some problems that might require a rope.
The best advice you are getting is to plan to travel. In six or seven hours of driving you can be at any one of the great climbing zones in the east.

Be very careful about speeding the Chatam police are worse than the Madison boys go 35 mph!

There is other real rock climbing, NJ has not opened the palisades, yet!! but the cliffs hold gems at all grades! Something for the access fund? if you are interested, I understand Andrew Sinclair and Michael C(he is your go to Nj guy)will be willing to talk to you. You may go indoors to investigate, but check out the climbing at the Passaic River road railway bridge a one minute ride to Stanley Park down the street from the Gravity Vault,in Chatham.
I hope that you can get the stoke up! Nj is the center of the climbing universe if that is were you are.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340
O'neil Van Horn wrote:I recently received acceptance to graduate school in New Jersey. There is a strong possibility that I may end up there next Fall. It will be a bummer to leave California, I know. I will likely be in northern New Jersey, specifically Madison. I am looking for information on two things: 1) Crags. What's around? What's it like? How does it compare? (I know that it is not CA...) 2) Housing. Everything I've seen is terribly expensive. Do y'all have any tips about finding housing in the NE? I am on a dirtbag budget. Let me know if you have any tips, etc.! Thanks in advance!
As many have already said, and I can confirm having lived in this God forsaken state the majority of my life...NJ Sucks.

Madison is a nice town, and neighboring Morristown is great little city. You're not in "Sopranos" NJ out there.

CRAGS - lots of little crags, cliffs and outcrops scattered and hidden throughout the state.

One of the most popular, and easiest accessible would be Allamuchy State Park.

Right at the NJ/NY border (again, not too far from Madison) is the Powerlinez, which is a pretty big area for bouldering and single-pitch.

Continue further north into NY, you're at The Gunks. North of the Gunks, the Catksills (ice only). And even further North is the Adirondaks. Notice a pattern of going further into NY and further away from NJ for bigger and better climbing?

Ralph Stover in PA, is a decent sized single-pitch crag with some rather unique rock. From Madison...maybe 90 minutes? Further into PA there's a lot of cool crags as well as bouldering areas.

Probably the coolest place, in my opinion, is The Gap. That's about an hour from Madison, where the Delaware River splits NJ and PA. You have Mt Tammany on NJ and Mt Minsi on PA. Trad, Multi-Pitch, about as wild and adventerous as you'll get out here.

Feel free to message me for more info. A lot of areas in this state are either access denied or in that gray area of "access sensitive".
Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

the days of my real estate knowledge are far past the expiration date
So take this with some salt and tears ...
the cheapest housing is shared between folks a $1500 a month ?? 2 bed One bath house on a curve of a city street? is thar' still such a beast? No? that beast is now 3 grand.
the nurses at the hospital in Morristown have been a good source as well as the Gyms.
Student housing and small rentals can be found if you want a realtor to represent you may do very well. I was one right there for years so in a pinch I know people who know people nowa 'mean?
It is Jersey every where!!

The best and closest climbing to Madison is .....
is where? Rent is cheap there!! is where?. the best highway access is where??

this is the Place - Diamond Hill road New Provedence Nj .
There are some good rentals in the neighborhood and the Highway access is great. The secret weapon of NJ climbing is or could be a walk away from home!
EDIT
Return to explain that if you look on 'the other side of the tracks' = poorer non Anglo hoods of the Plainfields,or Paterson? or less safe Oranges and Weehawkin/ Jersey City/ Hoboken/Newark,the rents are as safe as the neighborhoods.
Then if staying safely close with only small if any rock is a choice? Parsippany is on the Denvile side of Morristown and then going further away from Madison is Bud lake and Lake Hopatcong. Send me a PM when you are coming east the rentals can be a who you know thing.The same with the rock it would seem!

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

There's grad schools almost everywhere. There's not quality climbing almost everywhere and NJ is (I'm from southeastern PA) is kind of low on the list. Moving from CA is going to be a disappointment if you are any kind of serious about getting out to climb (and/or ski/board).

John Douglass · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 60

I spent the past 8 years in Princeton NJ. This included work, marriage, grad school and kids. My opinion is that it's a nice place to live a varied interesting life - and with plenty of climbing opportunities if you are motivated. Not great for cragging as others have mentioned. But climbing 20 pitches at the Gunks and then catching a concert in NYC the same day would be totally possible.

Can't help with the housing advice cause we lived in subsidized student apartments the whole time. But if that's an option then you would be wise to investigate.

Others have covered the climbing options well. The only thing I would add is that the NRG would be ~8.5 hrs away and has some of the finest single pitch trad and sport on bullet hard sandstone. Also, get into ice and mixed climbing if you haven't already because there is some fun stuff out there.

Good luck and a reminder that the quality of your grad school experience (anywhere) will be a large determinant of your happiness living in that place.

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

There's a reason why it's called the 'armpit of America'.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

California's pretty big, and most of the population centers are 2+ hours from any quantity climbing. Depending on what situation you're coming from, you may find the climbing areas are about the same distance travel for you in northern NJ.

HOWEVER, the weather in the northeast is much less pleasant for outdoors activities overall (when compared to southern California in particular).

We don't have an El Cap, but there are several areas with quality multipitch.

We don't have an Owen's River Gorge, but there's plenty of sport in Red River Gorge, Rumney, and scattered about.

We do have a friendly climbing community and it won't take you long to find regular partners.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Kevin
We do have a 'Cap'
That is amazing Granite way up in Canada.
As has been said the central east cost is ok. Not a climbers dream, but with a solid amount of climbing never very far away,
NJ is a tuff state though, climbing is and is not allowed depending on, where, what And, who knows who.
And another WTF Have you ever seen the Pallisades on the banks of the Hudson??

W. T. F. talk about a potential climbing Zone with a spectacular location !!, New Jersey??
You would never guess and can not make it up!
There is good climbing, in them thar hills!
just up behind the police station, Garrett mountain in Paterson or the Great Falls & more.....

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

As other's have said above - Cragging on a workday/schoolday probably won't happen for you - but the Gravity Vault in Chatham - one town over, is a very nice gym. Also NJ Rock Gym is in Fairfield - not as nice for Lead, but great bouldering.

Now, on your days off if you're OK with some time in a car, you've got:
- the gunks an hour and a half north for great multipitch, bouldering, and toproping (peterskill)

the delaware water gap 1 hour east for adventurous multipitch,

Haycock 1:15 southwest for great bouldering in the fall/winter

About a 2 hour drive to Birdsboro or Mocanaqua for sport climbing.

I'm sure there are other little spots too, like alamuchy - but if you're driving 40 minutes to there - 20 minutes more gets you the water gap.

So far as housing - that close to NYC, i'd expect it to be very expensive - I moved to PA and housing costs half what it did in jersey.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20
Larry S wrote:As other's have said above - Cragging on a workday/schoolday probably won't happen for you - but the Gravity Vault in Chatham - one town over, is a very nice gym. Also NJ Rock Gym is in Fairfield - not as nice for Lead, but great bouldering. Now, on your days off if you're OK with some time in a car, you've got: - the gunks an hour and a half north for great multipitch, bouldering, and toproping (peterskill) the delaware water gap 1 hour east for adventurous multipitch, Haycock 1:15 southwest for great bouldering in the fall/winter About a 2 hour drive to Birdsboro or Mocanaqua for sport climbing. I'm sure there are other little spots too, like alamuchy - but if you're driving 40 minutes to there - 20 minutes more gets you the water gap. So far as housing - that close to NYC, i'd expect it to be very expensive - I moved to PA and housing costs half what it did in jersey.
You apparently haven't been to a "very nice gym". I've been to both the Gravity Vaults, they're decent, but don't climb to the level of very nice.
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

I climb lots at both Gravity Vault gyms in NJ. I think they're very nice. I'm glad Gravity Vault is expanding to several other locations that are convenient for me when visiting family on weekends.

I've climbed at lots of gyms in USA and western Europe. The Gravity Vault gyms are better than lots of them.

Ken

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
Brian Monetti wrote:The Gunks. Great climbing, huge crowds. The tallest climbs there are on the order of 300', so its no Yosemite in terms of long routes, but there are hundreds of amazing climbs all within a 20 minute walk from where you park.
Having escaped to California for Thanksgiving, my feeling is that the good climbing on the Eastside Sierra pretty much blows away the Gunks.

Really the tallest sections in the Gunks are little more than 200 feet (and most sections are lower). I doubt there's any place in the Gunks where a 70 meter rope will not reach from top of cliff to bottom.

My feeling is that the top-rated climbs in the Gunks (three stars in the Williams guidebook, and some of the two-star ones) are rather good, especially at 5.8 or less (which means 5.9 or less in California). But the quality falls off quickly outside of those. And a significant number of top-ranked climbs have obvious flaws.

5.10 and above, so many great routes have been discovered in other regions since the glory days of the Gunks forty years ago ... that only the top-ranked Gunks routes at a given grade come up to comparable with the modern competition. Usually we say about nice sequences in the Gunks, "If only this were longer".

And for 5.10 and up there are some other crags (some already mentioned) within comparable driving distance from Madison NJ, which have single-pitch routes as good as the best in the Gunks. Those routes may not be as long, but the "density" of quality moves is higher, and the convenience / efficiency of doing multiple routes is better.

Just my opinions.

Ken

P.S. One great thing about NJ (versus CA) is EWR -- where you can get on an airplane late afternoon / early evening and wake up the next morning in the Alps -- and be out on the rock by lunchtime (or out on skis if that's your thing). And the alpine climbing in the Alps is surely better than in California - (makes sense: that's why they call it alp-ine). Also the amount of really fun non-alpine rock in Europe near non-stop flights from NJ is overwhelming.
Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Michael Schneider wrote:Kevin We do have a 'Cap' That is amazing Granite in Canada.
Okay, you got me. Where is this 3,000' granite monolith?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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