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Bugaboos

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Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

I am looking to do some of the easier routes in the bugaboos, hopefully this summer. I have just started digging into the area, but I am considering the Kain route on Bugaboo Spire and the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire.

How much of a hazard are crevasses on the approach to these climbs? Is not normal to rope up and carry pickets?

As I mentioned, I have just started researching so any basic info you think would be useful is appreciated.

Thanks!

Jon Weekley · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 70

There are no crevasses on either route... Except maybe one in the bugaboo/snowpatch col. It was a snow bridge when we were there, and we roped to cross it in the daytime (on decent). Good 1st picks. You might want to look at NE ridge of bugaboo spire, also. I think it gets guided less than Kain route, anyway.

Michael Goodhue · · Colorado · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 35

Climbing both routes require climbing the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Some years this col is a casual snow ascent you can do in sneakers. Some years there are multiple overlapping large crevasses at the base of the slope into which people have fallen and gotten seriously injured.

If you end up with good conditions, you won't need to worry about it at all. If you have poor conditions, you will want to be very solid with your snow and 4th class climbing, and be very proficient in self-arresting. Practice makes perfect!

I doubt snowpickets would ever be necessary, but if wouldn't be a terrible idea to bring one or two to increase your safety margin. You wouldn't need to bring the pickets on the rock route as you would be able to descend to your packs before going back down the col. And if you had good conditions, you can just leave them in camp.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

thanks for the info, guys (or girls).

i was simply thinking of bringing a picket for an anchor in the event of a crevasse fall. im used to humping heavy loads to the base of climbs so if i might need it ill just bring it.

thanks again.

Dominic Albanese · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 475

I was in the Bugaboos at the end of summer in 2012. (last week in August)

We went up the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col 3 days in a row and ended up having to retreat back down the Col after it started snowing and the visibility went to zero. Exciting up there.

The col felt pretty dangerous to us (not too extensive ice/snow experience) as there were two very large crevasses about 2/3rds of the way up and the climbing above was thin and icy above.

Here is a picture from over near the base of McTech

We were very glad to have crampons and took one tool a-piece.

We also did 3 raps to get down from the col. Two single rope raps and one double. The last rap is where we passed around the large crevasse. Here is a picture from that last rap.

The travel on the Vowell up above is much easier to the col below Pigeon.

The approach to NE ridge of Bugaboo doesn't go up the col but is 4th class and many rope up for the approach. Other options if the col is in bad shape (Mctech eg.) stay in the cirque with the camping and have a much shorter and straightforward approach.

I think in general earlier in the season the col is in better shape. Have fun it was the most stunning area I have ever visited.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

Ive found a couple threads recommending going later in the year (aug-sept). I was planning to go June 27-July 5 to take advantage of the 4th of july holiday days off of work.

anyone been there in this time. I hear its raining but the Col is in better shape.

sean o · · Northern, NM · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 48

I was up there early August 2014, and Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col had melted out, meaning an open bergschrund and lots of rockfall:

Bugaboo-Snowpatch col melted out, August 2014.
I would suggest going earlier in the season. You can get to Pigeon Spire later via the Bugaboo Glacier, which has some crevasses, but isn't that bad.

Brett Bloxom · · Bishop, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 385

I was there first two weeks of august this summer and had to rescue a woman from the bergschrund towards the top of the bugaboo snowpatch col our second day there. There was constant rockfall coming down the col which gradually increased every day we were there. Best advice for the col would be to be there in July rather than august. You can also approach the west ridge route by heading down and around snowpatch spire and continuing up the glacier until you are at the pigeon howser col. This approach was longer, but pretty mellow.

Pickets are not necessary anywhere.

Matt G · · Co · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 10

Here's a pic of the Col from July 13th of this year. We lucked out with regards to the weather. You can see the open part of the crevasse in the shadow about 2/3 of the way up. No pickets necessary.

Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col

Lizzy VanPatten · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

I went to the Bugaboos the first week in August 2014. Although not everyone roped up for glacier travel, it's never a bad idea. When I was there the col was extremely dangerous to climb, and after a lady fell in and broke her pelvis, I refused to use the col for the approach. I am also a moderate climber and my first day (after the trek in) we went to Pigeon Spire. Beautiful climb and we. Actually free soloed most of it. If you're looking for some great climbs with milder approaches, I recommend between the ears. If you choose to rap off the back, I would bring an ice axe for the carry over. There was another climb (actually my favorite in terms of the climb) that was called lion something. It also has a shorter approach and is near between the ears. The first pitches leave something to be desired, but the last few have parallel cracks and fun chimneys.
For the milder routes you only need one rope and one doubles rack. Ice axe and crampons. But we never used pickets. And the majority of people didn't have them.
Random beta: the Refugio is beautiful and has a full kitchen. If you want to stay in the Refugio make reservations as it does fill up. They also have photocopies of pages from the guidebook in the Refugio that you can take. But the camp sites have bathrooms and running water for drinking and cleaning pots. They also have places to store food. We didn't filter our water and we were fine. Another note, don't underestimate the clouds. Early starts are a must, because it may start out completely clear and it's no fun when you're on top of Pigeon Spire and the lighting starts rolling in and the rocks start buzzing. No matter what it looks like in the morning, always have rain gear. And finally, don't underestimate the hike in. I consider myself to be a strong hiker and usually can take a lot of weight so I read three miles and thought, no need to go in lightweight mode. It is not an easy hike in. Don't take it lightly.
Good luck on your trip and maybe I'll see ya there!

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I went to the Bugs twice this year. Bugaboo-Snowpatch col was scary early August this year and completely out in early September. Crampons and an axe were definitely necessary for early August. Crevasses should be pretty well open by then so there shouldn't be any surprises.

I think the weather is generally better later in the season, but the col is worse. Pick your poison.

It's worth liking the ACMG (Association of Canadian Mountain Guides) on Facebook, they'll post updates on mountain conditions on commonly guided areas such as the Bugs.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 195

If there is someone with a decent amount of experience in Bugaboo, that wouldnt mind answering some questions through private messaging, please send me a note. Thank you.

Hans Bauck · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,099

I've been there 10 times or so and can give lots of beta if you want.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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