Hi, we are visiting friends in Sanger, CA over the thanksgiving weekend. We would like to take a day-trip to Yosemite on friday. We were wondering if there are good places where we could go with a relatively short approach to climb some 5.9 - 5.11, sport routes.
I realize that this is NOT why one comes to yosemite, but since we don't have time this trip for something more appropriate, I thought I'd ask to see what the community thinks would be good to try in this short time frame.
Although it might be busy, Pat and Jack Pinnacle has some great climbs within the constraints you communicated. If you have a 70m, you can also get creative regarding getting some topropes on really great routes not otherwise accessible given your constraints on gear and difficulty, e.g., Skinheads to Underclingon (mind the potential rope swing for the first 20 feet) and Polymastia to the Tube.
Tollhouse is much closer to Sanger, and it has tons of bolted slab routes, a number of them probably qualify for "sport" status, while others have more spacing between bolts. There is an excellent modern guidebook by Dwight Kroll and Tom Slater which should be available at local shops. There are also crack routes, including a few short but quality top-rope cracks on the Cap rock (very exposed, sits on top of the 500+ foot dome).
If you're definitely headed for the Valley, I'd head to Pat & Jack, it has the highest concentration of "easier" sport routes for any winter crag - 5.8/9 on up. If you have gear, it can be good to bring 2 or 3 small cams to supplement bolts on some routes.
Also the Cookie is close by, Pringles is a great easier 5.11 sport route, highly recommended.
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