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2014 - 2015 Utah Region Ice

Publius Vitia Isauricus · · Big Pine, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 20

Rookie party is still in, on Tuesday, it aw so cold my camera and phone froze so I could not get a photo, anyone up for it on Sunday?

Kyler R · · SLC · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Be advised that the time on that route may have run out.

The Tram is running this weekend Saturday and Sunday for sight seeing foot passengers only and the mountain is closed to all uphill/ downhill travel.

Basically what I am saying is you may run into difficulties pertaining to access of the route.

EDIT -

Anyone gone up to see if there is ice around Sundial Peak in Big Cottonwood?

Parker Alec Cross · · Provo, UT · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
Still thin on Timp.

Still thin on Timp.
Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
Kyler R wrote:Anyone gone up to see if there is ice around Sundial Peak in Big Cottonwood?
My guess is that it is in by now or getting very close. This is November 21, 2013:



I'll also say it's not worth the trudge in. It'll be the same as last year. Wallowing in powder just deep enough to make talus travel annoying.
CareBear M · · Worcester, MA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

Sundial is in. I don't have a picture for ya... that would have been a good idea. We went up Saturday and I know folks were up there sunday, too.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436
Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote: Wallowing in powder just deep enough to make talus travel annoying.
"Annoying" doesn't quite describe it.
Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

Seems like as good a place as any to ask, but I can move this elsewhere if needed since it's not actually a condition report:

I just moved to Ogden and I'm looking for any good Utah ice guide books? Or places to get beta in general?

Thanks much in advance.

Edited for brevity.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888
Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

Anyone been up LCC lately? Great White Ice in?
Twin Falls Idaho is fat.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

The GWI was forming on Saturday when I drove up to Alta. Seems like it needs a good week or two to form up well.

chadnuesmeyer Nuesmeyer · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

GW is in, I know for certain up to pitch 3.

Pitch 1, is tracked and seeing regular traffic. Took a shower, from spray, on the ramp (2nd pitch...whatever you call it). The bulge, pitch 3, was good - surprisingly good. Did not get on the final pitch... Long story.

chadnuesmeyer Nuesmeyer · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

On another topic... Heading to Banff and wasn't to plan. Any insight on the best guide book?

Micah Lewkowitz · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Chad,
Check out "Ice Lines" by Brent Peters. Beautiful photos and great descriptions and beta.

chadnuesmeyer Nuesmeyer · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

All 4 on the GW go... It gets a little dicey at the top, 'who said pick placements in moss is bad?!?' Also, it was melting a lot this morning.

@Micah... Thanks. I will pick it up.

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039

Did a little dry tooling at the Kitty Litter/Pipe Dream wall and got a photo of "Stairway to Heaven" on the drive up the canyon (11/22/2014). A bit grayed out, and certainly rain beaten after today, but I was psyched to see ice forming. Bridal Veil Falls area also looked like it had climbable ice prior to today's rain.

"Stairway to Heaven," Provo Canyon, UT, 11/22/2014

Kevin Chuba · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 135
chadnuesmeyer wrote:All 4 on the GW go... It gets a little dicey at the top, 'who said pick placements in moss is bad?!?' Also, it was melting a lot this morning. @Micah... Thanks. I will pick it up.
I'm not sure that swinging and ice axe into moss, is considered in. Are you kidding me! If the ice is melting a lot, is this considered in? Would you take a lead fall on the last pitch right now and feel good about bringing down the whole thing on top of you and your partner? This is terrible beta and should be deleted from the post. Check the weather and stay up to date on the temperature it's not rocket science (ice forms in the mountains when it gets cold). And when did the internet start guiding ice climbers anyway? Also no one cares if you climbed the GWI!
zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790
Kevin Chuba wrote:...Also no one cares if you climbed the GWI!
Except you since your entire post was about it. Der.
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654
Stairway on Tuesday.

That's a bit of a bummer. Looks like the 5th pitch, which was forming up nicely, collapsed in the warming and rain. With this storm being warmer than forecast and temps forecast for low 50's by mid-week looks like we will all need to go high or wait.

Kevin calm down little buddy. Each of us has our own level of acceptable risk and deffinition of what's fun. The post provided good beta about conditions. It's up to each one of us to decide what's in or out.
Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
Kevin Chuba wrote: I'm not sure that swinging and ice axe into moss, is considered in. Are you kidding me! If the ice is melting a lot, is this considered in? Would you take a lead fall on the last pitch right now and feel good about bringing down the whole thing on top of you and your partner? This is terrible beta and should be deleted from the post. Check the weather and stay up to date on the temperature it's not rocket science (ice forms in the mountains when it gets cold). And when did the internet start guiding ice climbers anyway? Also no one cares if you climbed the GWI!
How are you coming into a conditions thread and complaining about updates to the conditions?

Also, there's plenty of ice climbs where the 'in' conditions involve swinging some picks into moss. The Candlestick, even when absolutely monstrous, has a dirty finish.

I neglected to get any good quality pics but on 11/20 I spied Hanging Slab gully coming in. Looked like a couple of other reasonable smears of ice towards super slab as well. If we get some more good freeze/thaw cycles happening later this week those climbs will be in.
Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

I was planning on hitting up some Wasatch ice, but I know I'd wreck the ice if I did.
Kevin

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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