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Frenchtown?

Original Post
Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Reading about Green Pond here brings back some memories of a visit there around 1980, and a route we knew as the King's Swing.

I lived in Doylestown Pa, and climbed mostly on shale and argillite. Occasionally though, we would cross into NJ at Frenchtown, and climb at a small crag right along the roadside by the river. The rock was excellent Gunks type stuff.We led stuff there up to 5.10 (Dresden was one route we did there, barefoot).

Anybody climb there now?

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

I read in Rock Climbing NJ about a crag along the Delaware River near Frenchtown, Buzzard's Butte?

I'd be willing to head up there. I love cragging in Jersey.

joeforte · · palmerton, pa · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 404

Tom, when you say gunks like, do you mean the type of rock, or style of climbing? Buzzards butte is red argillite/shale like stover, about 25-30 feet tall. How tall was the spot you remember? I know of a few cliffs along that stretch!

Michael C wrote:I read in Rock Climbing NJ about a crag along the Delaware River near Frenchtown, Buzzard's Butte? I'd be willing to head up there. I love cragging in Jersey.
joeforte · · palmerton, pa · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 404

Tom, when you say gunks like, do you mean the type of rock, or style of climbing? Buzzards butte is red argillite/shale like stover, about 25-30 feet tall. How tall was the spot you remember? I know of a few cliffs along that stretch!

Michael C wrote:I read in Rock Climbing NJ about a crag along the Delaware River near Frenchtown, Buzzard's Butte? I'd be willing to head up there. I love cragging in Jersey.
Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Hi Joe!

It was white rock, pretty sure Shawangunk Conglomerate, or the same as the DWG, but not tilted!

My notes say we called it Reigelsville, but it was on the Jersey side.

You belayed standing on the road, like 60' tall and 150' wide?

On Google.Earth go to Reigelsville-Milford Cliffs.Looking at it it does not look like Shawangunk Cong, but lighter than across the river?

Cheers, Tom!

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

I think I know what you're talking about...

If you cross into PA at the Regiesville Bridge and drive North on 611 maybe a mile, there's a big face on the Jersey side. There's a general store on 611 and it's kind of right behind it.

That's probably the Gap-Gunks rock you're talking about, not that shale stuff at the Narrows and Stover.

Always wanted to check that out...looks like it might have a lot of loose rock and vegatation though. I'm sure after a good cleaning it would be decent. It was a pretty big chunk of rock. How's the access issues???

joeforte · · palmerton, pa · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 404

I know which spot you are referring to now. I've been calling it pinchers point, after a nearby road. I don't know the history of that name, or if it even refers to that point on the ridge.

Michael C wrote:I think I know what you're talking about... If you cross into PA at the Regiesville Bridge and drive North on 611 maybe a mile, there's a big face on the Jersey side. There's a general store on 611 and it's kind of right behind it. That's probably the Gap-Gunks rock you're talking about, not that shale stuff at the Narrows and Stover. Always wanted to check that out...looks like it might have a lot of loose rock and vegatation though. I'm sure after a good cleaning it would be decent. It was a pretty big chunk of rock. How's the access issues???
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

It's right across the river from Mueller's Too. I've been wondering about it, if it was climbable, accessible, etc. I stopped and took some pictures of it across the river a while back. I'll see if i can dig some up and post them here.

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

There were about a half dozen pretty decent one pitch leadable routes there up to 5.10 ( Welcome to Reigelsville). You belayed standing on the road.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

Here's a few pictures I snapped on my way back from Stover in February 2011:

From Mueller's Too

Close up - Center

Close Up - Right

Close up - Left

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

From what I can tell, the land is currently owned by the NJ DEP - njparcels.com/property/2120…

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

Tom; Is this the rock you were talking about? It's right along River Road. Using the telephone poles as a measuring stick, it looks like the outcrop reaches over 100' off the road.

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Ha Larry, not sure, but I think so? Best view is to look at Google Earth, I think it's Milford-Reigelsville Cliffs. Two lane road, guardrail and the crag is right on the road. The images you guys posted look like there is an upper tier, and I am unaware, but it could be. Yes too I think now we didn't cross at F-town, but at Upper Black Eddy. Hard to imagine there are two cliffs in that situation. Tom Schilder and I also climbed a wee ice flow on that side, which is just south of the crag, and that is how I remember it, and it shows that way on Google Earth.

Rich Strang · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 2,621

Climbed ice routes at Reigelsville back then too. Does it still ice up in a good cold snap? I do remember all the Philly Gunkies would talk about climbing rock there on occasion if they didn't go to the gunks though

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340
Larry S wrote:Here's a few pictures I snapped on my way back from Stover in February 2011:
Larry, I was driving River Road/611/32 yesterday and saw this area. This isn't the cliff near Riegelsville I mentioned earlier. This cliff is north of Cafferty Road (road to High Rocks) and South of the bridge to Milford...not sure if it's North or South of the Frenchtown Bridge.

I'm always up for exploring!
Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Way to go! If you get an image you can post I'd love to see it. The position of the cliff on Google Earth looks correct in relation to the road, but it looks steeper than I remember. The cliff I am suggesting had reasonable starts, and then several routes had do-able overhangs at the top, and good rock. Fun to ferret out these little gems!

Good luck!

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872
Location of the cliffs in the pictures above.

This is where the cliff in the pictures i posted above is.
Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Ha this is fun! When I search that address(138), on Google Earth, I get a small shot of the type of rock that I recall being there, which would you agree is not Argillite? Something better? I think you are onto it!

Correction: If I google 138, then scroll a bit north, there is a panaramio pic of " rocks along road" or something like that. It's the type of rock I recall.

Next time I'm down, when the ice cometh, I will scope it out properly.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

Larry, the map you posted is the original spot I mentioned (near reigelsville, north of the bridge on 611, behind a general store). Above that cliff, in NJ, is farmland and a winery.

I saw ANOTHER cliff on the Jersey side much further south yesterday and the rock type looks very similiar. That cliff is south of Reigelsville. Should have taken pics and got the coordinates.

Neither cliff is the Buzzard Butte, which is that dark red shale rock similiar to Ralph Stover.

joeforte · · palmerton, pa · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 404

The rock is very similar to Emmaus, boulders, but weathered and fractured differently, due to the river. It doesn't seem like quartzite. More like a gneiss/metadiabase /anorthocite ish.......

Thomas Stryker · · Chatham, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 250

Sounds like you found it Joe ! One more person and we can start our own Facebook page....lol! ;^)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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