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In honor of rock season NEVER EVER EVER being over...best 5.8 lead in NY???

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Ed Wright wrote:Rock season is never over.
Heard that joints amazing but.. when's ice season start?
Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

"Birdland" in the Nears
"SOEO" in the Trapps
The final pitch of "Ridiculissima" is a standout, as well.

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

arrow is a great line....im trying to imagine what it would be like without the bolts....i know i get a good small cam at some point between the bolts i think....i can't recall if there is anything near the crux for tiny gear...crowds with thin out without the bolts, that is for sure.

has anyone done prelude to overture at the upper washbowl up in the adk??? it is one of the great 5.8s in ny...it takes the first pitch of prelude with is just good crack climbing...and links to the last pitch of overture...a thin traverse across a face to an arete then up that....there is probably 250 feet of air below you as you make a thin traverse over to a corner....plus you are near the top of the cliff which is looking over the whole chapel pond pass....the exposure there is really intense....ended up doing it when there was a line on another climb called hesitation...which i still havent done and is supposed to be another classic at 5.8

i think the first pitch of Cold Turkeys in the gunks is another really nice 8...some guy pointed out to be one day...its right by arrow....not one of the more talked about lines but way more exciting than the other 8s nearby

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
Benjaminadk wrote:son of easy o is getting lots of love already!
Yeah, Son of Easy O gets too much love. The bottom of it is very slick due to high traffic over the years and recently someone added a three piton anchor on it that people gang top-rope off of further giving it too much love. It's loved to death.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Hessitation, Overture, Gamesmanship, CCK come to mind. for the life of me I simply don't get why Todd Swain downgraded Birdland, Bonnies roof etc to 8+??? It's not like the Williams guide was soft! Kind of a douch move INMOP.

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

bonnies would be a pretty stout 8, even 8+. the crux section is harder for me than modern times or double cracks. the gunks has an incredible amount of quality 8s within a relatively small area...shit...you could say that about most grades. but the adk has some really amazing climbs that for alot of people are too far off the beaten track. i can understand people coming from the south that dont want to drive an extra 2-3 hours though. at the same time, they shouldn't bitch about the crowds at the gunks when there is an even bigger climbing area that close by. rambling. we got it good though, between the two climbing areas there is a ton of diversity. they complement each other nice nice.

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050
Brian wrote: Yeah, Son of Easy O gets too much love. The bottom of it is very slick due to high traffic over the years and recently someone added a three piton anchor on it that people gang top-rope off of further giving it too much love. It's loved to death.
yeah
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

What? No one has mentioned Broken Sling? The most sustained, varied climbing in the Gunks if you don't count the SOEO. Mainline is also pretty awesome. I think 5.7s in the Gunks shine though. How about that Yellow Ridge, huh?

And rock season is never over. YOu can climb in the Gunks all year long.

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

i still havent ever been on broken sling!! or mainline! yellow ridge is one of my favorite climbs anywhere. i just discovered yellow belly right nextdoor. i did the first pitch of that and linked it to YR traverse. good stuff. yellow belly looks like crap from the ground but its got a great roof problem. mucho exciting and possibly cooler than the yellow ridge

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Benjaminadk
A lot of link-ups that take the harder first pitch or second pitch roof/exposure line to create
Modern 150 foot long rope stretching three star routes.
The column you climbed and called the first pitch of Cold Turkeys, Were you far right at an inside corner then moving up and left ? or out on the left closer to the step down on the trail by the Arrow wall? front of the column or right face and outside corner to a couple of moves straight up to the GT ledge.?

And the daks IS the 5.8 zone!! the Gunks actually shine ... at all grades and in that diversity is the sweet spot that starts at the ten's but becomes more and more World Class as it works up!,
Beyond the mid twelves I have very little personal experience and while I have tried a lot of the hard routes
It has always been with stronger climbers who could send the stuff. Some of the folks are still around. I almost said it before Off The Top Of My Head I don't have the book (s) Right here right now
And back and forth into the MP list is a pain, so here goes,
Happiness is a 110 wall
Nectar Vector
Gravity 's Rainbow *
Bone Hard
Squart Thrust*
Dark Side Of The Moon ((Spinal Traction*??go yet))
Suppers Ready
Survival O.T.F.(really?* now only .12d?.)*
Kansas City
Infinite Space
That is just thinking of the.12s oh Supercrack*haha( * stands for what where once 5.13?) haha
The traveling climbers drool and swear. Some extend their stays for weeks.
The same can be said of the .13s &.14s The New age line through Twighlight Zone holy crap
that thing is famous in some very strong German Climbing circles.

The same can be said about the ten's and eleven 's so pull hard and the rewards will keep coming

As an odd ball HARD 5.6 try Big Chimney Turn left up the face to the hanging crux of Miss Bailey's.

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

hey micheal
cold turkeys...i kind of went straight up the arete....between easy v and nurses aid...got to a short orange face with some thin cruxy moves then i think a little left to the edge of the arete and up the exposed column, slighly overhung but with mostly big holds to the gt. remember some guy climbing limelight that day told me about it. was fun.

thanks for all the list. what is the new age line? ive watched a vid of twilight zone...wild...didnt realize gunks had 14s.

ive just started leading into the tens, im stronger in thin vertical than overhanging jugs..i did get the chance to follow nurses aid, birdcage and 10000 virgins and some others and those were all pretty awesome and went well(except for 10000, that was brutal). so i get what your saying. the 8s were great, but the tens are amazing. i can only imagine what 11 and 12 will be like eventually.

i made my first trip to lost city finally. didnt have any real beta, we winged it. later i found out i had led a climb called Resistance amongst some others. Resistance is now one of my favorites anywhere and i cant wait to go back and get it clean. i'd like to get on more climbs around that difficulty (10b/cish???) and that vertical thinner style...the overhangs on that arent bad at all. any recomendations?

Andrew Mertens · · Fort Collins · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 136

Diagonal on Wallface for being one of the most alpine climbs in the Northeast.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
doligo wrote:What? No one has mentioned Broken Sling? The most sustained, varied climbing in the Gunks if you don't count the SOEO...
Dolgio, You know they call Broken Sling "Broken Ankle"? I wouldn't put it high on my list for that reason. (I guess I'm a wimp.) Aren't you out ice climbing yet?
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Brian, do you not like the start or the second pitch traverse? I don't think the start is that bad for somebody tall like you. The traverse is a bit heady, I agree. It's not cold enough not to rock climb yet, so ice can wait!

Frank F · · Bend, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

Best?

The fact is, NY has a wealth of great moderate routes. The way I'd approach the question is to ask which is the most exhilarating, both for the leader (OP's question) and for anyone climbing the route for the first time (leader or second.) I can get pretty jacked on just about any climb, making comparisons within one grade suspect, but watching the faces of my partners can be a good way to suss out the measure of a route.

For 5.8's, I'd have to go with Birdland in the Gunks because of the technical demand of p.1 and the sense of accomplishment after p.2. At the same time, Prelude to Overture in the Daks is also a route that that links improbable discoveries and leaves one with a wide-eyed stare.

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Gunks - ARROW
Gunks - Oscar / Charlie -> Strickleys
Gunks - Alphonse (NTs)

Isnt a 5.8 -> NEI 3ish? Get some axes in the hands and pointy things on the toes!!!

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804
doligo wrote:Brian, do you not like the start or the second pitch traverse? I don't think the start is that bad for somebody tall like you. The traverse is a bit heady, I agree. It's not cold enough not to rock climb yet, so ice can wait!
I'm referring to the start. It is generally agreed that the start is dangerous hence the nickname "Broken Ankle." If you read the description it is apparent that I'm not the only one who thinks it is dangerous (and sandbagged).
mountainproject.com/v/broke…
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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