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What's in your shoe quiver?!

thecornyman · · Oakland, CA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 140

5.10 Coyote lace up - sized to walk in for easy 4th and solo stuff.
5.10 Anazazi - gym shoe... too smelly to wear right now
5.10 Galileo - back up gym Shoe
Sportiva Miura - gym and sport shoe
Sportiva Mythos - multipitch trad and crack shoe

Danielyaris · · Salem, OR · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 20

I don't have all my rock shoes (5 pairs) and approach shoes (3 more pairs) but here is what I have so far

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

i am bringing this thread back from the dead as i research a thin crack shoe.

Approach - La Sportiva Boulder X - workhorse, climbs easy routes well

Trad - La Sportiva TC Pro - comfy, edge machine, great shoe

Gym - La Sportiva Mythos - just doesn't cut it for me outside anymore

Sport/Bouldering - Scarpa Vapor V - got a crazy deal online, not comfy, great feel and great rubber though, my goto for climbing sport at my limit

  • want a second pair of shoes i can wear outside that are easier on the feet that the vapor v. something that complements the tc pro. ideally something with a thin profile for straight in finger cracks
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

oh man

Ganda guides $60 in a consignment shop my exact size.

vasgue approach shoes $25 a pair promotion

3x resoled guide tennies from 4 years ago

TC pro in my shoe size, the love shoe off to the resoler and dreanche in aqua seal because the damn uppers are shredding

Vipers that a friend gave me (Too small for him)

supa moccs, sick for thin cracks

5.10 Blancos third resole dont climb so well anymore

Katana lace Replacement for blancos 3rd resole doing well

cobras, never really broke in well. probly should get rid of them

Muirra VS sport and bouldering shoe... excellant shoe. also my onsight shoe for thin cracks

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Shoes, silly!!!

Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

blown out pair of 5.10 galileos which need to be thrown out because they stink and are super blown out.
five ten verdes on their 3rd resole
five ten quantum's sized way too small for bouldering I guess
a new pair of verdes on the way cause they were on sale for $59 on amazon
and a new pair of the quantum's sized larger b/c they'll perform great on anything, and they were also on sale for $69.
i read a post from james pearson who had a shoe quiver of just five ten quantum's. 3 sizes, 1 for bouldering, 1 for routes, and 1 for big walls.

Chris Graham · · Bartlett, NH · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 545

Scarpa Instincts
Scarpa Instinct S
Scarpa Magos
Tenaya Ra
Tenaya Masai (go to shoe!)
Scarpa Phantom Guides
Koflach Degree double plastics with Savage Gear supergaiter
LaSportiva Xplorer approach shoe
5.10 descent approach shoe

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

These days - Sportiva TC Pros for most stuff, esp edging routes. Otherwise a light/loose pair of Sportiva Barracudas from way back in the day... I have a few of those I am "using up" still.
For easy stuff? Ha - a 20 year old pair of Boreal Flyers - an approach shoe.

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

1. 5.10 regular mocs 3 pair
2. 5.10 super mocs 3 pair
3. 5.10 coperhead 1 pair
4. 5.10 anasazi vcs 2 pair
5. sportivaTC pro's 3 pair
6. sportiva Katana velcro 3 pair
7. sportiva miura vs 3 pair
8. sportiva miura lace 2 pair
9. Scarpa mago 1 pair
10. Scarpa instinct vs 1 pair
11. sportiva Testorosa 1 pair
12. sportiva nepal
13. scarpa rebel ultra
14. Dynafit tlt5
15. 5.10 guide tennie 2 pair
16. 5.10 descents 1 pair

probably have more but these are the ones I use.

Lohan · · Rome, GA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 345

5.hard - la sportiva miura vcs (sized tight, usually for sport & bouldering)
5.moderate - red chili habanero (sized tight, unfortunately; used for both sport and trad)
5.easy, walking, warming up, multi-pitch - evolv cruzer
Also own a pair of la sportiva tarantulas with blown out toes, which I give to friends for their first times climbing.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Sportiva Wildcats and Guide Tennies for easy stuff (choice depends on the approach)

Comfortably sized, resoled TC Pros for multipitch trad stuff.

5.10 Anasazis for pretty much everything that isn't really steep.

Scarpa Vapor Vs for steep sport and bouldering.

Evolv Shamans for truly serious pebble battles.

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196

Evolv Pontas laceups - Go to shoe for sport, gym, and bouldering. My second favorite all around shoe. Sized tight but bearable for extended periods.
Evolv Predators - Steep bouldering. Sized for business/pain.
FiveTen Blancos - Similar to Pontas but not as comfortable. Sized tight.
Evolv Bandit laceups - Trad and gym. Sized for comfort.
FiveTen Newtons - Multipitch/all day shoe. I don't use them much these days. Sized for comfort.

Now if I could only find a replacement for the first generation Evolv Kaoses...my favorite all around shoe ever, especially for slabs.

BrianVarick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

Do you guys bring multiple shoes to the crag or do you decide before you leave?

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256
BrianVarick wrote:Do you guys bring multiple shoes to the crag or do you decide before you leave?
Usually 2-3 pair
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Rock: TC Pros for stuff I'm scared to climb, Mythos for stuff I'm not scared to climb, Muira VS for stuff I'm too fat to climb. I have a pair of Guide Tennies for stuff I'm scared to scramble in hiking boots or trail runners.

I want a pair of Evolv Addicts for cracks and slabs. I find them very comfortable to wear.

Ice: Scarpa Rebel GTXs for hero ice days, Scarpa Jorasses for most days, Scarpa Phantom Guides for brittle days and the 6000s for days when you pack the puffy pants and the thermos.

I have about 20 pairs of Nike Air Jordans but i'm too old to wear those. Those shoe boxes have the same layer of dust as all my fitted caps. Haha..

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

^^^^^^

You're getting out with those raggy shoes.. That's all that matters!

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225
Shoes

Acopa Scrambler 42.5
Acopa Scrambler 42.5
Acopa JB’s 42
Acopa Chameleon 40 ¾
Acopa Enzo 42
Acopa Legend 44
Acopa Spectre 42
Acopa Spectre 44
Acopa Merlin Strap 40 ¾
Acopa Merlin Lace 44
Acopa Aztec 42
Acopa Aztec 42
Five Ten Grandstone 41
Five Ten Anasazi High Top 41
Five Ten Stoneland Slipper 41.5
La Sportiva Barracuda 40.5
La Sportiva Barracuda 40.5
La Sportiva Barracuda 40
La Sportiva Barracuda 39.5
La Sportiva Barracuda 39
La Sportiva Cobra 40
La Sportiva Testerossa 40.5
La Sportiva Katana Lace 40
La Sportiva Wmns Muira VS 39.5
La Sportiva Mythos Limited 39.5
La Sportiva TC Pro 41
La Sportiva TC Pro 40
La Sportiva Ganda 42.5
La Sportiva Ganda Guide 42.5
Evolve Astro Man 42.5
Austin Eddy · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 11

5.10 anasazi vcs, mostly worn out. (first pair of 5.10s)
5.10 hornets (on sale for like 55 dollars, softest shoes ever)
5.10 blackwings (favorite shoes got them for like 100)
5.10 anasazi arrowheads (a little too narrow, but also great shoes, much stiffer)
La Sportiva Futuras (won them!)
I had some Shamans, but they wore out and I didn't love them.
And I'm thinking about trying out some dragons so I can really complete my aggressive 5.10 shoe quiver lol

All my shoes are for outdoor sport, outdoor bouldering, or indoor bouldering.

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

TC Pros, two pairs, for almost all rock.
Mythos, two pairs, one sized comfortably and one for socks in cold weather (originally sized painfully tight and slightly tight, respectively, before they did that thing that Mythos do). I used to climb in these a lot, but not since I got the TC's.
5.10 Blancos, too small but with some of the heel tension released, for plastic or sometimes steep sport.
Acopa Spectres for plastic.
Scarpa Invernos for ice (not what I'd buy again).

D Graham · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 972

Best quiver ever right here:
Miura lace sized snug but comfy for sport
TC pro sized snug but comfy for crack
solution tight for overhung/boulder
Anasazi blanco sized tight
Mocs for slab and indoor
all bought on ebay or MP.
for the people posting like ' I have3 of this shoe, 2 of this shoe, 3 of this shoe etc. etc.' How are you using all those shoes? it's not like you bring 2 pairs of 1 style of shoe to a crag (?)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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