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thecornyman
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May 23, 2011
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Oakland, CA
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 140
5.10 Coyote lace up - sized to walk in for easy 4th and solo stuff. 5.10 Anazazi - gym shoe... too smelly to wear right now 5.10 Galileo - back up gym Shoe Sportiva Miura - gym and sport shoe Sportiva Mythos - multipitch trad and crack shoe
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Danielyaris
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Jun 13, 2011
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Salem, OR
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 20
I don't have all my rock shoes (5 pairs) and approach shoes (3 more pairs) but here is what I have so far
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Benjamin Brooke
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Nov 20, 2014
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San Pedro, CA
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 1,050
i am bringing this thread back from the dead as i research a thin crack shoe. Approach - La Sportiva Boulder X - workhorse, climbs easy routes well Trad - La Sportiva TC Pro - comfy, edge machine, great shoe Gym - La Sportiva Mythos - just doesn't cut it for me outside anymore Sport/Bouldering - Scarpa Vapor V - got a crazy deal online, not comfy, great feel and great rubber though, my goto for climbing sport at my limit - want a second pair of shoes i can wear outside that are easier on the feet that the vapor v. something that complements the tc pro. ideally something with a thin profile for straight in finger cracks
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Rob WardenSpaceLizard
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Nov 21, 2014
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las Vegans, the cosmic void
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 130
oh man Ganda guides $60 in a consignment shop my exact size. vasgue approach shoes $25 a pair promotion 3x resoled guide tennies from 4 years ago TC pro in my shoe size, the love shoe off to the resoler and dreanche in aqua seal because the damn uppers are shredding Vipers that a friend gave me (Too small for him) supa moccs, sick for thin cracks 5.10 Blancos third resole dont climb so well anymore Katana lace Replacement for blancos 3rd resole doing well cobras, never really broke in well. probly should get rid of them Muirra VS sport and bouldering shoe... excellant shoe. also my onsight shoe for thin cracks
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Steve Williams
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Nov 21, 2014
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The state of confusion
· Joined Jul 2005
· Points: 235
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Wilson On The Drums
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Nov 21, 2014
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Woodbury, MN
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 940
blown out pair of 5.10 galileos which need to be thrown out because they stink and are super blown out. five ten verdes on their 3rd resole five ten quantum's sized way too small for bouldering I guess a new pair of verdes on the way cause they were on sale for $59 on amazon and a new pair of the quantum's sized larger b/c they'll perform great on anything, and they were also on sale for $69. i read a post from james pearson who had a shoe quiver of just five ten quantum's. 3 sizes, 1 for bouldering, 1 for routes, and 1 for big walls.
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Chris Graham
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Nov 21, 2014
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Bartlett, NH
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 545
Scarpa Instincts Scarpa Instinct S Scarpa Magos Tenaya Ra Tenaya Masai (go to shoe!) Scarpa Phantom Guides Koflach Degree double plastics with Savage Gear supergaiter LaSportiva Xplorer approach shoe 5.10 descent approach shoe
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Tony B
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Nov 21, 2014
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Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,665
These days - Sportiva TC Pros for most stuff, esp edging routes. Otherwise a light/loose pair of Sportiva Barracudas from way back in the day... I have a few of those I am "using up" still. For easy stuff? Ha - a 20 year old pair of Boreal Flyers - an approach shoe.
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Highlander
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Nov 21, 2014
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 256
1. 5.10 regular mocs 3 pair 2. 5.10 super mocs 3 pair 3. 5.10 coperhead 1 pair 4. 5.10 anasazi vcs 2 pair 5. sportivaTC pro's 3 pair 6. sportiva Katana velcro 3 pair 7. sportiva miura vs 3 pair 8. sportiva miura lace 2 pair 9. Scarpa mago 1 pair 10. Scarpa instinct vs 1 pair 11. sportiva Testorosa 1 pair 12. sportiva nepal 13. scarpa rebel ultra 14. Dynafit tlt5 15. 5.10 guide tennie 2 pair 16. 5.10 descents 1 pair probably have more but these are the ones I use.
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Lohan
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Nov 21, 2014
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Rome, GA
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 345
5.hard - la sportiva miura vcs (sized tight, usually for sport & bouldering) 5.moderate - red chili habanero (sized tight, unfortunately; used for both sport and trad) 5.easy, walking, warming up, multi-pitch - evolv cruzer Also own a pair of la sportiva tarantulas with blown out toes, which I give to friends for their first times climbing.
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Ryan Watts
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Nov 21, 2014
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Bishop, CA
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 25
Sportiva Wildcats and Guide Tennies for easy stuff (choice depends on the approach) Comfortably sized, resoled TC Pros for multipitch trad stuff. 5.10 Anasazis for pretty much everything that isn't really steep. Scarpa Vapor Vs for steep sport and bouldering. Evolv Shamans for truly serious pebble battles.
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Doug Lintz
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Nov 21, 2014
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Kearney, NE
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 1,196
Evolv Pontas laceups - Go to shoe for sport, gym, and bouldering. My second favorite all around shoe. Sized tight but bearable for extended periods. Evolv Predators - Steep bouldering. Sized for business/pain. FiveTen Blancos - Similar to Pontas but not as comfortable. Sized tight. Evolv Bandit laceups - Trad and gym. Sized for comfort. FiveTen Newtons - Multipitch/all day shoe. I don't use them much these days. Sized for comfort.
Now if I could only find a replacement for the first generation Evolv Kaoses...my favorite all around shoe ever, especially for slabs.
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BrianVarick
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Nov 21, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 45
Do you guys bring multiple shoes to the crag or do you decide before you leave?
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Highlander
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Nov 21, 2014
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 256
BrianVarick wrote:Do you guys bring multiple shoes to the crag or do you decide before you leave? Usually 2-3 pair
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Bill Kirby
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Nov 22, 2014
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
Rock: TC Pros for stuff I'm scared to climb, Mythos for stuff I'm not scared to climb, Muira VS for stuff I'm too fat to climb. I have a pair of Guide Tennies for stuff I'm scared to scramble in hiking boots or trail runners. I want a pair of Evolv Addicts for cracks and slabs. I find them very comfortable to wear. Ice: Scarpa Rebel GTXs for hero ice days, Scarpa Jorasses for most days, Scarpa Phantom Guides for brittle days and the 6000s for days when you pack the puffy pants and the thermos. I have about 20 pairs of Nike Air Jordans but i'm too old to wear those. Those shoe boxes have the same layer of dust as all my fitted caps. Haha..
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Bill Kirby
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Nov 22, 2014
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
^^^^^^ You're getting out with those raggy shoes.. That's all that matters!
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knowbuddy Buddy
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Nov 22, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 225
Shoes Acopa Scrambler 42.5 Acopa Scrambler 42.5 Acopa JBs 42 Acopa Chameleon 40 ¾ Acopa Enzo 42 Acopa Legend 44 Acopa Spectre 42 Acopa Spectre 44 Acopa Merlin Strap 40 ¾ Acopa Merlin Lace 44 Acopa Aztec 42 Acopa Aztec 42 Five Ten Grandstone 41 Five Ten Anasazi High Top 41 Five Ten Stoneland Slipper 41.5 La Sportiva Barracuda 40.5 La Sportiva Barracuda 40.5 La Sportiva Barracuda 40 La Sportiva Barracuda 39.5 La Sportiva Barracuda 39 La Sportiva Cobra 40 La Sportiva Testerossa 40.5 La Sportiva Katana Lace 40 La Sportiva Wmns Muira VS 39.5 La Sportiva Mythos Limited 39.5 La Sportiva TC Pro 41 La Sportiva TC Pro 40 La Sportiva Ganda 42.5 La Sportiva Ganda Guide 42.5 Evolve Astro Man 42.5
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Austin Eddy
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Nov 22, 2014
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Chattanooga, TN
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 11
5.10 anasazi vcs, mostly worn out. (first pair of 5.10s) 5.10 hornets (on sale for like 55 dollars, softest shoes ever) 5.10 blackwings (favorite shoes got them for like 100) 5.10 anasazi arrowheads (a little too narrow, but also great shoes, much stiffer) La Sportiva Futuras (won them!) I had some Shamans, but they wore out and I didn't love them. And I'm thinking about trying out some dragons so I can really complete my aggressive 5.10 shoe quiver lol All my shoes are for outdoor sport, outdoor bouldering, or indoor bouldering.
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Kevin Neville
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Nov 22, 2014
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Oconomowoc, WI
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 15
TC Pros, two pairs, for almost all rock. Mythos, two pairs, one sized comfortably and one for socks in cold weather (originally sized painfully tight and slightly tight, respectively, before they did that thing that Mythos do). I used to climb in these a lot, but not since I got the TC's. 5.10 Blancos, too small but with some of the heel tension released, for plastic or sometimes steep sport. Acopa Spectres for plastic. Scarpa Invernos for ice (not what I'd buy again).
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D Graham
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Nov 24, 2014
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Washington, DC
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 972
Best quiver ever right here: Miura lace sized snug but comfy for sport TC pro sized snug but comfy for crack solution tight for overhung/boulder Anasazi blanco sized tight Mocs for slab and indoor all bought on ebay or MP. for the people posting like ' I have3 of this shoe, 2 of this shoe, 3 of this shoe etc. etc.' How are you using all those shoes? it's not like you bring 2 pairs of 1 style of shoe to a crag (?)
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