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Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R
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Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bulging Codpiece (submitted as On the Crest) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Camouflage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Concentric T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmic Wave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mind Your Bulging Codpiece T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rincon Dink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Rincon Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: |
Sport
Fixed Hardware
(8) |
| FA: | Michaels, Meyers, Piana |
| Page Views: | 6,651 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Levin on Oct 23, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Per Adam Brink: this is a truly stellar pitch of slab climbing on bullet stone. There is a dangerous direct start, but most people go up the first 20 feet of Rincon, place some protection, and traverse left to the first bolt. From the first bolt to the little roof, it is devious, nails thin, and consistently difficult climbing. I have yet to see this onsighted on lead. Any takers on that glory?
After the roof, most climbers go right into the short, right-facing corner. This makes the bolts hard to clip (or even see!), but it is the easiest way. There is a direct version going straight up the bolted arete that has been toproped but not yet led.
A big part of the challenge of this route is finding the holds. Please don't use or leave tick marks! - not only does it greatly reduce the difficulty for the next climber, but it ruins any chance of a true onsight.
The difficulty of this route is hard to gauge. Just check out the suggested ratings! They go from 5.11c (totally insane!) to 5.19c/d (from one of the most well rounded climbers anywhere). Personally, it took as much effort to send as The Evictor or Eldo 5.12+.
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