The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Hey Aaron! I've got your tool and some sick photos on the way too. My climbing partner commutes through Golden everyday - message me your number and I'll put you two in contact and he can get it over to ya ASAP!

Album - dropbox.com/sc/m7nzcnij80ns…

Killer pillar?
11/18/14.

Christopher.D.Thomas wrote:Thanks for the feedback! I'm still learning.

So, went up today to do "Waltzing Matilda" just curious, who named it?

Anyway, very short ice line but in a cool setting. The couloir is actually pretty cool with a couple of fun features. Straight forward snow, somewhat steep at times, with the ice step, and what looks to be an easy chockstone up high. I will say this, the snow was some of the best snow I have EVER climbed in CO. Very styrofoam and squeaky. Hardly ever see snow in these conditions here. I'm not much for snow slogs these days, but this was actually enjoyable. I did not top out the couloir, it was getting a bit late in the day and just down climbed the ice. Fun afternoon out for some alpine wandering!

Rating: Steep snow, WI 2, Grade 2+

Can't give the ice a higher grade... Just too short and maybe 60deg. Only real ice of significance is about 15-20ft.

Overall easy approach via Elk Park to The Oil Tunnel in the Devil's Playground cirque. Straight back turn left. Follow obvious drainage, climb is visible the entire time. Plenty of bail options, right, across boulders and slabs to adjacent couloir. Adjacent couloir pops out right on the road, or, top out WM and ascend to top of Rumdoodle Ridge. Walk back to car one way or the other, or just descend either couloir.

Also, can we keep this on topic? Already 10 pages in and it's not even dec yet. Let's keep the bla, bla, to the ice climbing thread...

Exciting to see some great flows coming in so well! This cold snap has been fruitful!

B-dog wrote:I've read a lot of posts here suggesting that people go find ice. I'm cool with the idea, I can write off a day of wandering in the woods and not finding anything. That day would still be better than one spent on the couch. My question is, where does someone start in finding new or lesser known flows? I think I've heard of people looking at topos and satellite pictures but that sounds a little crazy. Winter pictures aren't used in Google Earth so the chance of spotting ice is nil. The idea of wandering around with NO goal in mind sounds like a waste of time. You gotta go wandering with the idea of finding something in a particular spot, right? So....if the goal of this thread is for people to find their own ice, post up some tips...? Me adding something constructive: Moffat was thin, not worth the trip as of Sunday, imo, sorry no pics. A friend an I went up there and ended up having a great time dry tooling all day. The pillar fell recently and took the rope down with it. We moved another rope to where the water was flowing. I'd be curious to see how fast that sets up. If anyone goes up there in the next week or so, post a picture please! (or PM it to me to keep it a secret haha)

B-dog, I know when I am out wandering, I'm always looking for a drip, a likely (or wishful thinking) line that just might have SOMETHING in it, on it. Often, it is surprising to see where ice forms that seems impossible and where it doesn't, when there is obvious flow etc. There is so much unfound ice out there. Primarily because it requires major commitment, possibly days to access in full winter. There is a flow I am aware of on the north side of Blanca, it would be a MAJOR bitch to access it in proper condition, during the winter. Climbs like the one Ivan posted in the Sangre's, tons of stuff like that. The reality is, go looking. Hit a trailhead, take a look. Wandering in the alpine is sublime, and really, never a waste of time if you simply go to get out. You never know, you might find an FA! Good luck!

Anyone up for some ice this weekend? Maybe some Lincoln falls action?

Thanks al! The Weather Channel forecast for RMNP this week was showing highs in the mid-forties, but the station on Thunder Mountain (which is probably closer-more accurate) jibes with what you all said. Either way, I'm happy to be wrong.

Adam DNR wrote:Thanks al! The Weather Channel forecast for RMNP this week was showing highs in the mid-forties, but the station on Thunder Mountain (which is probably closer-more accurate) jibes with what you all said. Either way, I'm happy to be wrong.

Well, they might mean Estes...if so that's about right, at least for today. Interestingly, temps are currently similar if not a tad warmer on the east-side "parks" than down here on the plains...

jmeizis wrote:What warm temps are you referring to? Looks like great ice forming weather to me! Heading up there tomorrow to see if I can find some terrible skiing, will let you know what I see. Bear Lake SNOTEL

Thanks, brother. Looking forward to your report.

Third Arrow over near the Black Wall:

Third Arrow next to the Black Wall on Mt. Spalding.

I only did the ice pitch, very hard ice. Weather was perfect-- no wind.

Adam DNR wrote:Thanks al! The Weather Channel forecast for RMNP this week was showing highs in the mid-forties, but the station on Thunder Mountain (which is probably closer-more accurate) jibes with what you all said. Either way, I'm happy to be wrong.

It was 39 degrees in Wild Basin today and Hidden Falls is a cold shower. Tomorrow is supposed to be a few degrees warmer then return to colder temps on Sunday.

All Mixed Up is, like others have said, good to go. The approach is loose snow over downed trees and talus. Not fun. The last pitch can go at WI3+ or solid 4 if you stay on the right side. Super hard ice out there today... with little to no threat of wind slab from above. Black Lake slabs also appear to be coming in but couldn't zoom my eyeballs all the way over there. Good temps today around 30F all day... little to no wind although it was forecast to be 30mph gusts.

The Phantom is in for all you Springs locals

Looking surprisingly good.

LawHous: shh! Maybe it'll get bigger and I'll actually have the balls to lead it!

Andy, weather in RMNP was cold and windy. Hovering around freezing at Bear Lake. Saw AMU from road, still in. Skied down Ptarmigan glacier (not very good) and saw some ice up on skiers right coming down just below Notchtop. Some natural slides filling in, probably from the previous storms. E. Face of Notchtop looks like the bottom snow field mostly slid. There's a steep pillar left of that looking well formed.

Not that it matters since there's going to be another storm before I get there, but what's the snow looking like in Lamb's Slide. Someone from the mobs going up Alexander's knows.

Anyone have any info on the Tyndall Gorge area couloirs? Looking to do the east face of hallett or dragons couloir tomorrow, Friday November 21. I realize it is winter conditions but feel there may be a nice window before the next storm really builds on soft snow pack and cornices.... thoughts, opinions?

James2 wrote: Your so right. Plus if you don't tell the whole world about your ice climbs someone from far away will move to your town, climb your climbs and put it on MP and name and claim FA. Ice climbing has become to gay.

Got off my lawn.

Updated conditions for Silverton, Ouray, & Telluride. Had a nice climb in Eureka on Wednesday. mtnguide.net/san-juan-ice-c…
more info here as well: mtnguide.net/resources/oura…

Tyndall, like Ptarmigan has a big patch of glacier ice in the middle. Easy to avoid cornices if they're even developed. Probably hard snow slab at the top considering the aspect.

Didn't see Dragontail but I imagine it probably has some thick, hard, snow, rock and small patches of ice in others. Not straightforward spring conditions but climbable.

Definitely avoid NE aspects, saw plenty of old crowns on that aspect.

Last pitch of Scottish Gully, 11/20.

Jack Hunt reports nothing formed up around Wolf Creek worth the trip so far.

jmeizis wrote: Not that it matters since there's going to be another storm before I get there, but what's the snow looking like in Lamb's Slide. Someone from the mobs going up Alexander's knows.

Mostly ankle deep or so bootpack, a few small sections of good styrofoam snow.