Climbing around San Francisco | Thanksgiving | Need advice

Hello all,

My partner and I are coming to SF for thanksgiving, we were thinking about Yosimite but it's pretty cold right now..

So we're thinking of a couple places: Mt. Diablo State Park or a little crag called Table Scraps.. I think.

We are trad climbers but don't want to bring our racks (flying from NYC) so we're looking for good mid-low grades. We both lead 5.6-5.7 on trad. We don't have a lot of experience on sport. Def not looking to lead 5.10's +. Sounds like we might be relegated to TR scenarios..

Any advice would be very much appreciated!!

Hi Kyle.

Mt Tam has pretty easy climbing and also perhaps the best view of SF. It's also not sandstone, which is pretty useful if there is a pesky rain.
mountainproject.com/v/mount…

Otherwise, I'd recommend Castle Rock or Mt. Diablo. Castle Rock has many more options and toprope setups are easy.

Have fun and welcome to The Bay!

Mt. Diablo doesn't have much in the way of trad, except for one or two somewhat low quality routes in Pine Canyon. Silverado Mine at Mt. St. Helena has some single pitch trad routes in the 5.7-5.9 range, but not really worth a trip out there just for that (there's some decent sport climbing at St. Helena).

Other than that, there's not a lot...

If you're going to Mt. St. Helena for Table Scraps I would go to Bear Cliff or the Far Side instead. Far Side has is easy to setup TR. Much better climbing and it's a little over 2 hours to get there from SF. A bit over an hour approach. Finish off the day at Russian River Brewery.

Also it's not that cold in Yosemite unless you try to camp in the Valley, highs around 65-70 for the lower Merced, as long as you have full sun there's plenty to climb (Knob Hill, Pat & Jack, Manure Pile, etc). It will be freezing at night particularly in the Pines campgrounds (Camp 4 is better but still cold).

My bias is that I bolted/FA'd all of the routes on Table Scraps, just to be upfront. Now with that out of the way, Table Scraps is unique from a couple of perspectives:

- Every route except for Hobolicious (5.7), Cayucos (5.7), and Snaggletooth (5.8) can be TR'd without leading. That's nice as it allows you to climb from 5.5 to 5.11b with climbs at pretty much every grade level between without ever having to be on the sharp end. Just scramble up the backside and access the chain on the top. As for the previous three mentioned climbs, if you trad climb at 5.5 - 5.6 you will have no problem leading any of them which basically means you will have access to every climb on the cliff.

- The rock is friable. That's an indisputable fact. It will probably make you feel a little sketchy at first. However, it has cleaned up A LOT and you should never worry about the protection, that aspect is bomber. I bolted the routes in 2009 and they have probably seen hundreds of ascents by now. I climbed out there last weekend with the family and didn't have anything break nor see any breakage and that was with approximately 15 people at the crag often with 4-5 climbers on routes at any point in time.

- Table Scraps climbing style is unique for the Bay Area. Most climbs are near vertical or slightly overhung in places yet go at very easy grades due to massive jugs. The rock is featured in a way I have yet to see anywhere else locally. I bring this up because low level climbing typically means slabfests with small holds. That is not true of any climb at Scraps, which is exactly why I bolted it. I wanted my kids to be able to climb routes that were engaging and fun at even low grades instead of pawing at smears and crimps on a slab. Also, the crux of every single Scraps route is the first 10-15 feet with typically easier climbing above. It's good for your ego!

- The hike out to Scraps is beautiful and easier/faster than any other cliff on either side of 29. The climbs are lined up on a single base aka once you are there, no more hiking or moving your stuff around beyond shuffling it to the base of the next climb.

My $0.02!

Excellent! Great suggestions everyone. I think Mr. Rough has me sold on Table Scraps. Sounds interesting diverse for such a small area.

I'm still listening...

Rough, thank you for putting up these routes and gracing my thread with your advice!!!!

Can't wait!

St Helena is great (thanks Rough!) but if you've never been to Yosemite, go to Yosemite.

Mike, I've been to Yosemite but not to climb. I'm under the impression It's going to be too cold for comfortable climbing...Plus, I have one day to climb. My family might be kinda upset if I come out there and spend all of my time climbing. I'll get to it eventually. I really want it! Thanks again!!

Yosemite is not too cold to climb comfortably, though check the weather in case a cold front comes through. Stick to climbs in lower canyon (pat n jack, cookie sheet, etc) for warmer temps than in the valley proper.

Day trips are easy. From the bay it's 3.5 to 4 hours depending on where you start from. Usually a 4am start gets you in the valley by 9am for pictures and short hikes to the base of el cap then to the climbing back down canyon by noonish with four to five hours to climb the bolted routes at pat n jack or cookie sheet. Leave at 5 when the sun goes down (maybe head back into the valley to grab the usual half dome alpenglow shot) and then you're back in the bay by 10pm. Have a partner and one drives up while the other sleeps then switch roles on the way back.

I like that guys plan. Make the most of that 1 day. All the places around the Bay really aren't even worth mentioning when compared to the valley.
You'll lose hours hiking at St Helena and the rock is mediocre at best. If

Again, thank you all for the recommendations.

As much as I wanted to get to The Valley, it wasn't in the cards. We went to see Table Scraps, it didn't disappoint!

Rough did a solid job on that piece. Most bolts were 1/2in and the anchors at the top were bomb. You can really see the thoughtfulness he put into the bolt placement. They all made sense. But what do I know.. I'm a trad climber

A little dusty on some holds, but mostly bomb-ass crimpers if not jugs. Very interesting rock there.

I think we finished with Sanggletooth, made me reconsider my idea of exposure. Beautiful background, easy to access, and good stuff.

Thank you Rough! A job well done