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Climbing shoe comparison: TC pro and Scarpa Techno X

Original Post
Rich McDade · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

I have had multiple surgeries on my big toe and can no longer climb in soft shoes. I have been stuck with the edgers for a few years now. Sucks! I have been climbing in TC Pros for a couple years now and really like them. They are great shoes, but they are quite expensive and it is time for some new shoes. Through work I get deals on Scarpa.
The Techno X seems comparable and stylee.
Has anyone climbed in both? How does the sizing compare? Does anyone like/hate them?

Any help appreciated

Thanks,
Rich

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

I tried on some TC Pros, and really wanted them to work and to like them, but they just didn't fit my foot now matter what size I tried them in. The Scarpa Techno X fit my feet perfectly. So while I haven't climbed in TC Pros, I can tell you that the fit is very different in my experience. Almost no La Sportivas fit my feet right, and almost all Scarpas fit my feet perfectly.

Mike McL · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 2,030

I own both. Both great shoes.

The Techno X is supportive and edges very well, but I think it's a bit more sensitive than the TC Pro, which I appreciate. It smears better. It is great for jamming as well. I prefer the Techno X for pretty much everything in fact, with the exception of wide cracks. The ankle coverage on the TC Pro is nice here. This preference probably has more to do with fit than anything else.

I have a fairly wide forefoot and the Scarpas fit me better than the TC Pros. I have never fit Sportiva climbing shoes well, but the TC Pros are a bit of an exception. That being said the Scarpas fit me better.

Both have Vibram XS Edge rubber, which I'm not a huge fan of, but at least it's durable.

The Techno X is very well made if you ask me. I don't have a ton of mileage on mine yet, but they're holding up very well. The rands near the widest part of the shoe (inside and out) peel off/delam on pretty much every pair of TC Pros I've seen, which is a drag for such a pricy shoe.

I wear a size 11 street shoe in most brands. I use the Techno X in a 44, which is a good balance of comfort and performance for me. The toes are right at the end of the shoe but no curled. They haven't stretched length wise really, but they break in of course. I own a TC Pro in a 43, which is a pretty comfy fit with flat toes. I could go down to a 42.5 and not get the toes curled too much, but comfort suffers, which is why I went with the 43. Keep in mind I don't really like to cram my toes in super tight shoes.

I say if you can get a deal and they fit well, then go for it.

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Own and use both, almost 100% in Yosemite, and for me there is no comparison. The Technos are not in the same league as the TC Pros in terms of comfort or performance.

Trouble is - as demonstrated by the first two responses you've been given - this is subjective and dependent on one's own feet. If you get a good deal on the Scarpas, buy them and give 'em a try, why not?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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