How do I narrow the sport-trad gap?

You can ask questions on MP forever. Just get out and climb. You'll get much further that way than here.

Eric D wrote:You can ask questions on MP forever. Just get out and climb. You'll get much further that way than here.

Unfortunately, the nearest rock (aside from some bouldering) is two hours away so I can only climb on the weekends. Plus, hearing all sorts of horror stories I'd rather ask for advice then learn the hard way.

I just used youtube

Hands on experience is the best teacher. Advice is great (especially if it's good advice) but let's face it, climbing is a tactile, first hand experience. Standing around at the base of a crag just plugging in gear will probably serve you better than massive amounts of reading on the subject.

Sounds like a lot has happened since you have posted your original question. The advice I liked the best is the one about taking a lesson. After a few years, I thought I was beyond getting professional instruction, but have found it helpful in honing my skills, learning how to teach/communicate with new partners, and better understanding the follower's perspective.

I think we focus a lot on the lead climber but I feel that my follower/belayer is the real rock star and who can make or break my day. I think learning as a team on what do after a fall, how to escape a route and perform self rescue tasks is very helpful. But again, hiring a professional guide and picking his/her brain for a day or two is definitely worth it. A few hundred bucks on a professional guide is nothing compared to the several grand spent on the rack.

Andrew Morrison wrote:If the route is set up this way, it was helpful for me starting out. Climb a "mixed" route - one that is sport bolted, but takes pro - and clip a draw, then place a piece just above it. The bolt gives the backup, but you're still climbing trad.

I took advantage of this when I wanted to give my girlfriend some practice catching a lead fall. I placed a cam about 1 foot above a sport draw, climbed a few feet above that, had her pay out an amount of slack to simulate how anyone would belay for an active leader, then took an announced fall and whipped down the wall. The cam held (what a great feeling when you're learning!) and the lil lady felt her first lead fall while on belay. Good practice for everyone! I've also hang dogged off of active and passive placements. Try out mixed routes (previously mentioned), where the bolts are so run out, you have to place gear in between. Focus on mental stability, ignoring the pain when you're doing negative resistance moves while downclimbing. You'll need that endurance for when you approach difficult-looking sections and want to hang on your last gear placement. It really helps to be able to lower yourself slowly by one hand, especially on steep overhangs. The gear works, not just for the mountain men and the pros! You can only do your best. Sometimes the rock blows out! Let's check reality, here!

There are lots of good ideas given here. I'll just share my experience, I will be glad if it comes handy for someone. I don't insist that it's the best way to learn trad climbing, it just worked for me. As many of us, I come from mostly gym climbing, TRing 5.11s and occasional 5.12, leading comfortably 5.10s and some 5.11s in the gym as well. My first year outdoors I mostly spent TRing from 5.6 to 5.10s -pretty much everything I could set a TR on in Peter's Kill and following trad/cleaning after leaders, mostly within 5.5-5.9 range in Trapps. After buying my basic rack, I took a trad class from a guide and started leading. First couple fake routes (around 5.6-5.7), then switched to real leading. I did what Eric Hörst recommends in his book "How to climb 5.13": I started building a pyramid, in order to progress to the next level I had to finish two climb of the grade easier. I took 5.5 as my base. For Gunks, as many here knows, that's a good level and there are lots of climbs to enjoy in this range. After finishing two 5.5s I did one 5.6, then two more 5.5s followed by another 5.6, and finally one 5.7. Having led 5 routes it turned out to be not bad at all. I did not fall above any of my piece though I did hang on my gear couple times. It took me a whole summer to get to one 5.8. And I have done total eight 5.5s, four 5.6, and two 5.7s. I have to say I did not climb much and also still TRed and followed leaders. I kept building my pyramid the following year, using 5.6 as a base, I was able to get to two 5.9s i.e. two grades up but never got to 5.10a. This year I put 5.8 as a base, and in October I did my first 5.10a-Never Never Land. I usually stick to classics with G protection, and occasional PG/13 for climbs on the bottom of the pyramid. I think it's the safest way to progress, it definitely takes time, but this technic allows you literally to grow as a trad climber along with the climbs. I do study topos but never go crazy about it. I just enjoy the climbing. It gets a bit spicy when I get to the climb of the pyramid I haven't been in the situation when I couldn't finish one. Have fun!