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Rainbow wall

Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Hi,
How often is Rainbow wall still climbed as an aid route? Looking on line it seems this is now really a free climb and I don't want to upset anyone if that is the norm. Thanks.

PS. Is there a topo around with the aid grades on it? Thanks

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Raindbow Wall is not 5.11-. Almost every pitch on the climb is 5.11, and I recall a number of 5.11+ and 5.12 pitches (although I did the Rainbow Country version).

I do agree that I dont think it's climbed as an aid route that often though, but it's not an easy climb. I found it to be noticeably harder than Astroman which is kind of a testpiece in itself.

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

Agree with John mostly a free climb these days, going to be cold back there. In my opinion if you want to aid climb there are better walls to so, Zion is close by and provides lots of aid climbs and you would likely be able to find something in the sun, which would be much more enjoyable. But with Zion or Rainbow Wall, please avoid hauling a haul, most of these walls can be done in a day by a competent party, and hauling is hard on the sandstone, damaging the rock.
I disagree with Rainbow Wall feeling harder than Astroman, Rainbow Wall felt like a cake walk compared to Astroman, short cruxes with lots of easy climbing in between. Anybody that is solid on 5.11 should be able to get up this route with little problems.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Thanks for the comments everyone.

The reason I'm considering it is that I'm hoping to be climbing with a group of Brits at Red Rocks at Easter, and one of them wants to do an aid wall.

However, I assume easter will also be the most popular time of year to free climb it? And if we aren't meant to haul then its out, as part of the reason for her would be a spend a couple of nights on a wall. Is there any particular reason not to haul on this route rather than, say, Moonlight Buttress over in Zion? Is the rock different? Thanks.

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256
David Coley wrote:Thanks for the comments everyone. The reason I'm considering it is that I'm hoping to be climbing with a group of Brits at Red Rocks at Easter, and one of them wants to do an aid wall. However, I assume easter will also be the most popular time of year to free climb it? And if we aren't meant to haul then its out, as part of the reason for her would be a spend a couple of nights on a wall. Is there any particular reason not to haul on this route rather than, say, Moonlight Buttress over in Zion? Is the rock different? Thanks.
Hauling in Zion is frowned upon, people do it but it is considered poor style. Routes in Zion can be done in a day easily especially if you fix a couple pitches.
Besides hauling sucks, more fun to just climb and not deal with a haul bag.
Nathan Scherneck · · Portland, OR · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 2,370
Highlander wrote: Hauling in Zion is frowned upon, people do it but it is considered poor style.
Maybe in Colorado. Do whatever, just don't harm the routes / rock.
Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256
Nathan Scherneck wrote: Maybe in Colorado. Do whatever, just don't harm the routes / rock.
Hauling does harm the rock, that is my point.

Even the guidebook states "Avoid hauling if possible. Some popular routes are getting scarred with white streaks where haul bags have scraped off the brown surface coloring of the sandstone." "Also free climb as much as possible. Every time gear is weighted it erodes the sandstone a little more...........weighting gear as little as possible extends the life of Zion's routes."
Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101
John Wilder wrote: Ive freed the route..... but pulling through on the bolts keeps the grade reasonable for mortals.
Nice spray. And what's this about you shouldn't haul in Zion? You shouldn't aid in Zion? Can we still place gear in Zion? David, go get on any wall you want, haul a portaledge, don't do a single free move, and spend all week on it if you want.
Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,999
John Wilder wrote: Note the C0 after the 5.11-. Ive freed the route and it you free all of it, it's 5.12a, but pulling through on the bolts keeps the grade reasonable for mortals.
John, you've led every pitch - without weighting the rope? If so you'd know that the first pitch is 12b so I assume there's a typo somewhere in your post. But nice job anyway!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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