Hello fellow MPers I am planning a trip to bariloche/cochamo/chalten for jan/ feb this year. I am trying to keep my weight down and am planning on doing mostly long trad/alpine routes, but also the occasional sport cragging. Having never taken a fall on my photons, they seem very durable but i am worried about extensive rock use with them (I've only used them ice climbing/ mtneering) anybody have experience with these ropes with abrasion resistance? My other thought is to bring 1 photon and buy a bluewater icon or something similar to pair with it...
Cor
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Nov 16, 2014
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Sandbagging since 1989
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 1,445
They seem to hold up well.. But what I really like is how burly & stiff they feel for the size. Being stiffer helps keep them from knotting, or getting stuck otherwise. Seems like a softer, floppier rope does that more ofter. But that's just my opinion. Hope it helps.
PS: Now that I read your whole text For El Chalten granite you want a 9mil burlier ropes.. Hope that helps too!
I've had the same set for 3 years. Last two years haven't much winter action but the first year I had probably 50 pitches on them. They are great but keep in mind they are skinny and that comes at a cost. I was pulling my ropes off Hallets in RMNP and hit a snag. Couldn't pull them. Ended up having to solo back up to the snag which had nearly ripped the rope in half. It was on a very sharp edge. In hindsight it was my fault and I don't attribute it to the quality of the rope, but they are skinny and take a little extra care. I just ended up replacing the bad rope with a new of the same. Still climbing on them today.
Rapping off them is nerve racking the first few times. They have a lot of stretch. With all that said I'd buy another set
Xam
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Nov 17, 2014
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Boulder, Co
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 76
Yippyyippychangchang wrote: If they are twins then they would just be a pain in ass to use on a bunch of rock. As you can not use 'twin' rope style of climbing.
Just looking to save this little MP gem for posterity.
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