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Ivan Locke
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Nov 16, 2014
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Taos, NM
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 80
Wolf Creek ice conditions
anyone, anyone? Wondering if thing are at least starting to come in. Also looking fer potential local partners in the San Luis Valley. Get in touch. I may have some new found gems here in Taos if anyone cares.
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LIV Veraldi
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Nov 16, 2014
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Lone Tree, CO
· Joined Dec 2007
· Points: 495
So - for those of you looking at AMU . . .
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The Blueprint Part Dank
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Nov 16, 2014
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FEMA Region VIII
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 460
England wrote: As someone said above. Not in for choppers but, doable. If you are top roping it for beginners(as your photo suggests) ...then you're F#(&ing it up for the rest of us my friend. Have not been there in a few days so no recent beta. Go f#(& yourself dude. "Top roping it for beginners (as the photo suggests)" Hahahahahahaha then you say... "Have not been up there in a few days, so no recent beta" Like seriously, you are a judgmental ice climbing douche. The beginner climbers (which is your inference, they could have simply been slingshot TR'ing after one of the dude's lead it) got virgin ice? Tough shit dude, you should have woken up earlier.
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Rocky_Mtn_High
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Nov 16, 2014
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Arvada, CO
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 230
TheBirdman wrote:Anyone been up to East Portal/Moffat Tunnel? Thinking of touring around to check snow conditions and wondering if bringing the tools is worth it. As of today, the ice up there is nothing to write home about. The main flow is short, anemic, and picked out. The nice pillar that formed last year apparently started forming but got knocked down. However, there is water running over it (and we dug out a drip rope and moved it over the column), so hopefully it will form up again before too long, if everyone gives it a chance. Thanks to whomever (Bruce?) is farming that pillar again this year. IMO, the only reason to bother heading up there is to teach a beginner or to enjoy some fun dry tooling lines (which is what we did).
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Rob Barker
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Nov 17, 2014
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Asheville, NC
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 5
Hey my name is Rob, I just moved down from Bozeman, MT two months ago and im still trying to find ice climbing partners... hit me up if your trying to climb..
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England
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Nov 17, 2014
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Colorado Springs
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 270
The Blueprint Part Dank wrote: Go f#(& yourself dude. "Top roping it for beginners (as the photo suggests)" Hahahahahahaha then you say... "Have not been up there in a few days, so no recent beta" Like seriously, you are a judgmental ice climbing douche. The beginner climbers (which is your inference, they could have simply been slingshot TR'ing after one of the dude's lead it) got virgin ice? Tough shit dude, you should have woken up earlier. I was starting to gain a little respect for you, but that's so gone. Let me retort. I was there on 11/12/2014 the day before these climbers were up there, and had a good look at everything. Like I said thin, but doable. Don't think it formed up that much in a day. A bunch of people up there top roping WILL kill it for the season. It takes a little time for this flow to form up good, and some years we don't even get a first pitch. I've been climbing there since 2008, and know it well. I try to show patience so everyone can enjoy climb climb a little longer. It's been that way around here for years. Hell only locals knew how to get to this climb until someone posted on this site awhile back. However, with the increasing popularity with ice climbing and attitudes like yours. Now I'm changing my beliefs to avoid hooking up the NOOB steps. Welcome to MP since you've been here for a whole year and a half! Credibility = 0
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James2 Jones
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Nov 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 0
England, ice climbing is gay, gay as hell!
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Ivan Locke
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Nov 17, 2014
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Taos, NM
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 80
You guys make this thread a whole lot of fun sometimes.
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Rob Cotter
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Nov 17, 2014
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Silverthorne, CO
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 240
Let's recap. This thread pertains to ice climbing conditions in Colorado for the 2014-15 winter season. If you don't have anything constructive to add regarding this topic then stay off this thread...
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Scott McMahon
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Nov 17, 2014
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 1,425
England wrote:Like I said thin, but doable. Don't think it formed up that much in a day. A bunch of people up there top roping WILL kill it for the season. It takes a little time for this flow to form up good, and some years we don't even get a first pitch. Asking people to have patience with ice is near impossible. Everyone runs and smashes down everything thing they can find at the first sign of a drip. It would be better however if their "teachers" showed them how to climb with a little finesse so everything wouldn't be knocked down in a day.
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ClimbandMine
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Nov 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2001
· Points: 900
Hey, England. Don't be a dick... Welcome to MP since you've been here for a whole six years! Credibility = 0
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phil wortmann
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Nov 17, 2014
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Colorado Springs, Co.
· Joined Feb 2005
· Points: 1,186
I've climbed at Hully since 02ish (which doesn't make me an expert)and have never witnessed it being "killed" for the season by the topropers. Hacked out maybe but easily climbable. The only definite I know of, in regards to the ice season, is that negative comments WILL kill a positive thread for sharing beta. This Noob for one, has always appreciated the good vibes! +1 Rob!!
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tenpins
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Nov 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 30
cant keep it all a secret. Poor ethics related to this are part of the larger "its all about me" mentality of tough guy americans. I remember when I was told to hook the previous tool placements. I was like wow thats a good idea.
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TJ Brumme
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Nov 17, 2014
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Marrakech
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 1,648
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LanceSullins
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Nov 17, 2014
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Ridgway, CO
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 375
We were up at Loch Vale yesterday 11/16 and found a number of climbable flows. Crystal Meth had some hollow/brittle curtains down low that people were doing a good job of climbing right of so as to let them finish firming up/touching down. Mo' Flo' Than Go was in and seeing a lot of traffic as well but seemed to be holding up. Sorry, I didn't manage to get my camera out for a picture.
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erik wellborn
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Nov 17, 2014
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manitou springs
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 355
FWIW, led Hully Gully yesterday. Pro is decent with stubbies and the occasional 16cm ice screw placement. Lots of water running, its only going to get fatter.
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JD Merritt
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Nov 17, 2014
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Eugene, OR
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 2,637
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Stagg54 Taggart
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Nov 17, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 10
tenpins wrote:cant keep it all a secret. Very true. I think it is encumbent climbers to instill in newcomers some of our values. For ice climbing I think one value we should pass on is that especially in the early season if you can't climb it without knocking it down, then wait! I consider myself an experienced iceclimber but there have definitely have been many times I've decided not to climb something because I knew there was a very good chance I might knock it down. I decided to wait and let it come in more so that everyone could enjoy it later. When I see or hear stories of beginners knocking stuff down, it is quite discouraging. It means we are not doing a good job of educating them...
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AaronPugmire Pugmire
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Nov 17, 2014
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Golden, CO
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 35
has any one climbed the flying dutchman recently?
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Alexey Dynkin
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Nov 17, 2014
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Bozeman, MT
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 0
Stagg54 wrote: Very true. I think it is encumbent climbers to instill in newcomers some of our values. For ice climbing I think one value we should pass on is that especially in the early season if you can't climb it without knocking it down, then wait! I consider myself an experienced iceclimber but there have definitely have been many times I've decided not to climb something because I knew there was a very good chance I might knock it down. I decided to wait and let it come in more so that everyone could enjoy it later. When I see or hear stories of beginners knocking stuff down, it is quite discouraging. It means we are not doing a good job of educating them... Couldn't agree more...and this actually ties in with an earlier comment about top-roping. In my experience, a well-instructed beginner on toprope is much less likely to bash the crap out of everything than a new leader pushing his/her comfort one. I'd argue that in many cases a short, delicate, climb stands a better chance of holding up through the season if it's carefully toproped than if everyone jumps on it as their first lead.
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