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Routes in Peewee Rock
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Belly Scraper T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Oui Oui, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Peewee's Piton S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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PePe LePew TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reverend Dick Shook, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Span-nish Fly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wee Willy Winkie TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Dirk Addis, December 1998 |
| Page Views: | 3,391 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Apr 13, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Scramble up to a ledge and boulder up to clip a glue-in bolt which protects a mantle up and right onto a ledge below a left-slanting ramp system.
Lieback up the ramp to relatively new glue-in 3rd bolt (which replaced a fixed pin) (a 1" cam or nut can be placed ~3' below in the lieback), which protects awkward balance moves to get established on a small ledge below a section of attractive face climbing.
Above the rock quality improves and fun climbing up plated face and friction leads to a sport anchor below the top.
- Great moves on this route but the rock quality in the lower portion leaves something to be desired. With time, and more ascents, this will get buffed out and become a popular climb in this area.
- The lieback is still pretty chossy so don't expect a cam to hold a fall.
Location
Located on the right side of the north face just right of a prominent right-slanting wide crack, The Belly Scraper and left of another bolted line, The Oui Oui.
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