240cm Dynex/Spectra Runner as a Trad Anchor

Gaz, why did you even start this topic? Is not like it was never brought up before.

J. Serpico wrote:Slightly off topic rant because of the superiority of all those who use the rope for anchor. I decided this year to use the rope a few times even when I had cordellette I practice this but rarely use it in real climbing. Because you can't honestly say something is not worth it until you actually use it. My take. The rope is neither faster or more convenient. A cordellette should be carried anyway for self rescue. You also lose about 20ft of rope when using the rope, a occasionally that is important. And if you carry a 70m to use the rope, than you are carrying even more weight. All things considered, it's a bullshit superiority complex some climbers have. You should be able to use the rope, and should practice it from time to time, because one of the times I used the rope, I was short a cordellette. But I think the cordellette is overall slightly superior to the rope, just like in most cases a autoblocking reverso is superior to a munter. But everyone should know how to belay off a munter.

Nice to know about 95% of the climbing world is doing it all wrong.

Jim Titt wrote: Nice to know about 95% of the climbing world is doing it all wrong.

You mean 95% of your climbing world. Over the years, everyone I climbed with in my neck of the woods uses some form of cord or webolette to create an anchor. I very very rarely even see climbers on parallel tpitches use the rope, so it's not just my myopic circle of partners. I'd guess here it's probably closer to 90% cord/webolette 10% rope.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the rope, but the idea that it's this vastly superior way of building an anchor is way way way overblown. It's one of those Internet pissing contest. Nothing more.

J. Serpico wrote:Slightly off topic rant because of the superiority of all those who use the rope for anchor. I decided this year to use the rope a few times even when I had cordellette I practice this but rarely use it in real climbing. Because you can't honestly say something is not worth it until you actually use it. My take. The rope is neither faster or more convenient. A cordellette should be carried anyway for self rescue. You also lose about 20ft of rope when using the rope, a occasionally that is important. And if you carry a 70m to use the rope, than you are carrying even more weight. All things considered, it's a bullshit superiority complex some climbers have. You should be able to use the rope, and should practice it from time to time, because one of the times I used the rope, I was short a cordellette. But I think the cordellette is overall slightly superior to the rope, just like in most cases a autoblocking reverso is superior to a munter. But everyone should know how to belay off a munter.

Anchoring with the rope actually has a significant advantage in the sequence of the second cleaning the anchor if you do it "properly"

With a cord you either need to clip in with your pas to take apart the anchor (untie the cord) while your leader is setting up the next belay ... Or wait till yr on belay

With the clove hitch rope anchor method you simply unclove and pull out however many pieces you are comfortable with removing ... Once yr on belay simply unclove the last piece and start climbing

No knots to untie, no pas, and no need to wait till yr on belay

If one does use a cord/long sling ... Use a figure 9 if you can ... It makes it a hell of alot easier to untie especially if yr fingers are cold and wet

;)

When I'm making trad anchors I'll almost always use a cordelette. On bolted belays I'll just clove hitch each bolt, no equalizing, no bunny ears. Then belay of one of the bolts.

rocknice2 wrote:Gaz, why did you even start this topic? Is not like it was never brought up before.

...I just wanted to start a flame war and the beer hadn't kicked in yet so I was using you guys as cheap entertainment ;-)

OK, so realistically I just wanted to get a reality check on 240cm runners and if someone had figured out something better. I guess 'old is good' in this case !!