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80M at Devil's Tower

Original Post
Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318

Does anyone have any good 80M rope beta for Devil's Tower? A lot of the 70M beta is on the site, but I was curious what other climbs can be done with one 80M.

For example, can you rap Broken Tree, Everlasting, or Burning Daylight with an 80M?

BBQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 554

Not necessary. In fact, bringing one long rope might be a bad idea. Bring two 60 meters or two 70 meters. Many fine people have brought one rope and gotten it stuck and had no backup to retrieve their stuck rope. Two ropes is better than one at the tower.

Tim McCabe · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 130

Most all of the routes went in at the time when climbing ropes were 50 meters. There are a couple of single rope ways off the top but if you want to do all of the good stuff and rap your route, not going to the top, then you'll need 100 meters of rope.

Just checked the guide book Burning Daylight is 160 feet for the first pitch. Second pitch of Broken Tree is only 140 but that's still 42 meters.

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318

I am well aware of the requirement for two ropes at the Tower. It is just nice to leave the extra rope on the ground if you can. For example, with a 70M you can climb the first couple pitches of One Way Sunset and El Matador with one rope. You can rap off of the summit with a single 70M, also.

I was just curious if an 80M rope opened up any one rope opportunities. I have heard that it does.

Tim, most of the route lengths in the guidebook are estimates above 35M. I am well aware of the stated guidebook lengths of pitches that I mentioned. The only way to know if an 80M will work is to try it out, hence me asking if anyone has any beta.

Mr. Wonderful · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 10

You must be new around here. You'll be much less frustrated if you dont expect replies to only address the original question or to reflect reading comprehension.

Sean Nelb · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 470

An 80 m rope doesn't open up nearly as much as the jump from 60 to 70 m does. You'll be able to rap Everlasting in two raps, as well as Broken Tree/New Wave (You can already rap these in two with a 70 if you use New Wave's anchors, but its very, very close and you could be left hanging. Carol's Crack should be doable with one 80. Bloodguard works also, but requires some 4th/easy 5th class to get down.

For the majority of routes, you'll still have to bring out the tag line even with an 80.

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318
Sean Nelb wrote:An 80 m rope doesn't open up nearly as much as the jump from 60 to 70 m does. You'll be able to rap Everlasting in two raps, as well as Broken Tree/New Wave (You can already rap these in two with a 70 if you use New Wave's anchors, but its very, very close and you could be left hanging. Carol's Crack should be doable with one 80. Bloodguard works also, but requires some 4th/easy 5th class to get down. For the majority of routes, you'll still have to bring out the tag line even with an 80.
Thanks for the response Sean. I was hoping you might chime in, since you have that place dialed.
Chris Hirsch · · Rapid City, SD · Joined May 2005 · Points: 7,079

Burning Daylight barely makes it with an 80m, usually have to downclimb a move or two. Also pretty close on Assembly Line.

Rich B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 10

You can rapp Everlasting in two shots with a 70m rope. I don't think an 80 would make it all the way down from the top of the 2nd pitch.

It might be worth contacting Frank at Devils Tower Lodge for beta. Great guy. I've camped on his lawn. Frank has guided on the tower for years, and uses an 80 meter rope with his clients.

devilstowerlodge.com/

roger fritz · · Rockford, IL · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60
Rich Bergstrom wrote: It might be worth contacting Frank at Devils Tower Lodge for beta. Great guy. I've camped on his lawn. Frank has guided on the tower for years, and uses an 80 meter rope with his clients. devilstowerlodge.com/
Good advice Rich. Frank is an incredible resource for tower beta. He helped us out on our impromptu stop at the tower a few years ago. Frank is not only a great resource, but he is a great guy. He has climbed that rock thousands of times!
Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
Guy H. wrote:...but I was curious what other climbs can be done with one 80M.
All of the routes can be climbed with an 80m rope.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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