does training on a crack machine work?

Just curious to hear if people have experience with meaningful gains in their crack performance via using a crack machine.

My own thought would be to work sizes that are either bad for me or that apply to a particular route I want to do, but that the crack machine is more a way to train technique than to train strength...does that seem right?

I learned a lot of the subtleties to crack climbing because of a crack machine. I would spend cold winter days playing on the indoor splitters until I figured out how to ascend them with as little effort as possible (maximizing technique, etc).

I experienced gains for sure and think that if you're wanting to fulfill your potential as a crack climber and you can't make it outdoors then crack machines are totally worth it.

edit: I think that whether you use the crack machine for strength or technique or both is totally relative to where you're at. For me its mostly technique and a byproduct is maintaining or gaining strength. that's also relative to the length, angle, etc. of the crack machine as well.

in my experience, a full sized crack setup ends up not getting used much, as it is ultra painful on the toes. however, i did build a set of small ones that i used like a hangboard, and i felt this was really, really helpful when i was climbing at the creek a lot.

Nothing can really prepare you for less than vertical funky flaring cracks. That said they're definitely good for crack climbing endurance, basic technique, and getting use to cramming your feet and toes into uncomfortable positions.

My buddies and I built one before a trip out west. I remember one time my buddy was leading Wages of Skin in Rock Creek Canyon and hit the upper section where the crack was closer to vertical, he yelled out "fuck yea crack machine" just before hitting the anchors...so yea I would say it's worth investing in one if you can't get on many cracks in your area.

I think to teach basic skills in a controlled situation, they work. Beyond that, I'd rather just climb.

slim wrote:in my experience, a full sized crack setup ends up not getting used much, as it is ultra painful on the toes. however, i did build a set of small ones that i used like a hangboard, and i felt this was really, really helpful when i was climbing at the creek a lot.

Do you have a picture of the "crackboard"? I'd been thinking of trying something like that. Basically pairs of cracks at each size you wanted to train? Just enough room for one jam on each side?

basically just a pair of 2x6's that are about 24 inches long. i use long bolts with nuts and washers at the 4 corners to expand or contract them to a certain width. i used these a lot to get better at .5 and .75 camalots. i thought it worked really well and enabled me to practice during the 'off season' ie, usually winter. i have a total of 4 of them; .3 camalot, .5 camalot, .75 camalot, and #2 friend. the #2 friend is made with a pair of square pieces of plywood that are about 16" x 16".

i don't use them much anymore, as i haven't been climbing in the desert as much the last couple years. when i get back into desert mode i will use them again though.

Optimistic wrote: Do you have a picture of the "crackboard"? I'd been thinking of trying something like that. Basically pairs of cracks at each size you wanted to train? Just enough room for one jam on each side?

I was researching this topic a few days ago to try to improve dealing with my not-so-happy sizes (0.5 and 0.75 camalots) and came across the following plan for an adjustable crack hangboard.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

slim wrote:basically just a pair of 2x6's that are about 24 inches long. i use long bolts with nuts and washers at the 4 corners to expand or contract them to a certain width. i used these a lot to get better at .5 and .75 camalots. i thought it worked really well and enabled me to practice during the 'off season' ie, usually winter. i have a total of 4 of them; .3 camalot, .5 camalot, .75 camalot, and #2 friend. the #2 friend is made with a pair of square pieces of plywood that are about 16" x 16". i don't use them much anymore, as i haven't been climbing in the desert as much the last couple years. when i get back into desert mode i will use them again though.

Thanks Slim!

What kind of training did you do on them? Just dead hangs? Or pullups?

Dave Holliday wrote: I was researching this topic a few days ago to try to improve dealing with my not-so-happy sizes (0.5 and 0.75 camalots) and came across the following plan for an adjustable crack hangboard. supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

That looks really cool...nice and compact. Thanks.

I believe that it does. I was too busy with a home project on top of a regular job to climb in the last 3 months. I was even too busy to practice on my crack machine ( as I had planned). However, I stopped the project for a week to get ready for an IC trip and was able to practice almost every day.

It allowed me to get past one of my crack climbing problems-a rapidly developing and painful hand pump. The crack I use has varying sizes and I do laps without touching the ground. Also, I carry an IC rack and place cams as I climb.

I have to admit, I didn't reach the point of flashing at IC, but the practice gave me a leg up and had a blast! Psyched to get ready for next spring!

Didn't it work for the Wideboyz?

QED.

Aerili wrote:Didn't it work for the Wideboyz?

Excellent point. Good for technique AND strength, by that measure!

Optimistic wrote: Thanks Slim! What kind of training did you do on them? Just dead hangs? Or pullups?

i used them pretty much the same way i use a hangboard - for dead hangs. i did 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off, 6 reps, 3 sets of each size. increase the weight each time, just like a hangboard. worked really well. that being said, when i was dialed on desert cracks my footwork and technique was pretty decent. these won't really help your foot technique, but similar to any climbing, the stronger you are the easier it is to relax and get on your feet.

Depends on your crack machine.

Different results from a hangboard vs a crack wall where you can actually climb. Crack wall works wonders, but I don't think this is what you are referring to:

mountainhick wrote:Depends on your crack machine. Different results from a hangboard vs a crack wall where you can actually climb. Crack wall works wonders, but I don't think this is what you are referring to:

Looks like an awesome setup! When you say "works wonders", can you describe what your experience was with it?

This is in my house. It runs from tips to handstacks. It is actual crack climbing, though vertical climbing distance is only abut 12 feet. So you just do 20, 30 or 40 laps and you get a great workout. When I built it I could not climb some sections. That has changed. I have learned the techniques to do so. Now I can climb the entire thing with a number of variations:

-Climb straight in, Thumbs up, or thumbs down
-Practice long moves
-Or: the tiniest moves possible, to get the most jams in the distance; move jams just one hand/inches above the other all the way up.
-Climb with one hand lower thumbs up, the other above thumbs down and shuffle like climbing a corner
-Use adjacent good feet for less punishment on the hand musculature and lots of laps on thinner ring locks, finger jams etc,
-OR, climb the thinner cracks full on with bad feet.
-There are also some small edges to work feet, mostly with awkward long steps between holds
-There are several variations to jamming and laybacking the green-purple size corners.
-The corners also form a very shallow chimney. Several ways to use this along with the different cracks.
-Climb with eyes closed. Helps kinesthetic awareness and ability to relax and feel the jams
-carry gear, and practice placements. I have even trailed another rope to place and clip