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Oak Flat info/guide?

Original Post
Travis Kaney · · Green Bay, WI · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 420

I'm moving to Phoenix in under a month now and as the climbing season is coming to an end here in Wisconsin, I'm getting excited about checking out some new areas. So.
Good quality, decent concentration bouldering near Phoenix... Oak Flat seems like the best? Anywhere I'm missing?
Any info on guide books for the area? Is there a Karabin guide? Give me the scoop.

Kevin D · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 160

The Rock Jocks guide to Queen Creek by Karabin is out of print so it varies between $30-200 on amazon.
Not sure if there is a fold out karabin guide.
also, I found this drtopo.com/north-america/un…

Travis Kaney · · Green Bay, WI · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 420

Cool, thanks for the info!

I've heard/read about all kinds of great sport and trad climbing in the area too but any other substantial bouldering areas nearby?

Owen S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 3,363

lots of bouldering in superstition mtns. Im sure you'll find people willing to take you out there once you get there and start talking to folks at the gym

BenClimbing · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 245

The guidebook situation for bouldering around Phoenix is pretty bad .....I wouldn't buy the Karabin book if you are looking for a bouldering guidebook. Climbers perception of what bouldering is all about and how to identify (and rate) boulder problems has evolved significantly since it was published. It would help you find the boulders that people usually climb on but not much else. You would do better to find a friendly local that will take you and show you around. There are plenty of us. The info here, on Mountain project, for Oak Flats was pretty worthless and inaccurate last time I looked at it.

The local spots that are within 1 hour of downtown Phoenix are:

South Mountain - In town. (10 min from center of Phoenix driving and 5-40 min walking (depending on which area you go to). The main area is one of the longer walks and has a descent concentration of boulders with 3-4 dozen established problems on (usually) not very good quality stone.

Superstition Mountain - On the east edge of town (45 min from center of Phoenix driving and about a 1 mile hike the goes up 1000 feet). Moderately solid to excellent quality rock that lends itself to fun and stylistically diverse bouldering. At least 100 established problems in a few concentrated clusters with plenty of potential for more. You will need to find someone to take you there and show you around.

Oak Flat - 30 min past the Superstition Mountain bouldering with 0-10 min walking to the boulders. There is a way too much rock in this area )if that is possible). There are several dozen fun boulder problems. Unfortunately they are spread over a fairly large area with hundreds of uninteresting and repetitive boulder problems in between. Still, lots and lots of good bouldering to do. A local that knows their way around to the good spots that can point out some of the more classic stuff is highly recommended.

If you are on the west side of town, Prescott may be just as close as queen creek and there is lots of good stuff there. I would suggest that you don't move to the west side if you can help it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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