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> Cat Wall
Heart of Darkness
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 16
votes
Routes in Cat Wall
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April Fools S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Black Cat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cat And The Cobra, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Devil Cat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gilles No Limits S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Heart of Darkness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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King Cat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Musong S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Shamick , Mathues p2 in 99, Tom Zappe, Shamick remaining pitches 2000 |
| Page Views: | 5,254 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Clayton Rardon on Dec 27, 2007 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Classic Thailand. Steep climbing on wild tufas and stalactites with a bit of adventure as well. Sustained pitches with mostly nice belays. Sees a lot of ascents but difficult enough to keep it from getting polished.
Start: Climb the rock just right of the fixed lines that go up and left to the ledge routes. You will be standing under a large orange and black overhanging wall.
P1. 6c+ - 25m - Climb on big holds through the steepest part of the entire route. Belay on a ledge. Very overhanging, a fall will put you far away from the wall. Weaker seconds should know how to prussik up the rope. Great pitch!!
P2. 6c - 20m Head up and right on a gentle overhang, pull a small roof with tufas and belay.
P3. 6c - 20m - More of the same.
P4. 6c - 15m - A really fun pitch with a lot of stemming in the lower half and a surprise at the end. You 'thread the needle' and then the belay at a ledge.
P5. 6c+ - 35m - Long pitch nearly topping out the wall. Gently overhanging rock with a bit more technical climbing than the rest of the route. Very nice! Just left of the oval shaped cave in the picture.
DESCENT: Maybe the crux! This wall is very steep and needs to be back clipped all the way down. Much easier with two ropes, or at least a 70m to rap the top pitch. Rappel from Belay 5 to belay 4, back clip, watch for sharp rock. Rapp from B4 to B2 if you have two ropes, back clip. You must "rethread the needle" at B4. Rap from B2 to the ground with two ropes.
Route is in the shade starting between noon-1pm.
Start: Climb the rock just right of the fixed lines that go up and left to the ledge routes. You will be standing under a large orange and black overhanging wall.
P1. 6c+ - 25m - Climb on big holds through the steepest part of the entire route. Belay on a ledge. Very overhanging, a fall will put you far away from the wall. Weaker seconds should know how to prussik up the rope. Great pitch!!
P2. 6c - 20m Head up and right on a gentle overhang, pull a small roof with tufas and belay.
P3. 6c - 20m - More of the same.
P4. 6c - 15m - A really fun pitch with a lot of stemming in the lower half and a surprise at the end. You 'thread the needle' and then the belay at a ledge.
P5. 6c+ - 35m - Long pitch nearly topping out the wall. Gently overhanging rock with a bit more technical climbing than the rest of the route. Very nice! Just left of the oval shaped cave in the picture.
DESCENT: Maybe the crux! This wall is very steep and needs to be back clipped all the way down. Much easier with two ropes, or at least a 70m to rap the top pitch. Rappel from Belay 5 to belay 4, back clip, watch for sharp rock. Rapp from B4 to B2 if you have two ropes, back clip. You must "rethread the needle" at B4. Rap from B2 to the ground with two ropes.
Route is in the shade starting between noon-1pm.
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