Would you climb this route?
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I was recently denied a permit to bolt at the city of rock by park officials. Their main reason was that the route would not become popular and therefore there was no compelling reason to allow the new route since it would be used by only a few. The route is on the dome north of the clamshell, so it is about a 1/2 hour's technical hike from parking lot rock. It is about 150 to 200 ft long and would go at about 5.6 to 5.7 or so (I estimate), and follows the smooth face through the scoop and bulge (left of the grassy area). Perhaps they are right, but I'd like to get other climber's thoughts. To me it looks like great fun, but I enjoy friction and getting away from the congestion elsewhere. |
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how about just giving it a go on pro? |
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What is your thought on the style and character of the route? From the pic we can only see the route from one angle, are there nice views from the route? I agree routes away from congested areas are a plus, and I'm also a sucker for friction climbing. |
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I would be surprised if this slab hasn't already been climbed. |
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Are there other routes and bolts on the slab already? |
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The proposed route is the clean slab 30+ feet to the left of the large corner (Rock Pedophile). I looked the face over as close as I could from the top and bottom and couldn't see any fixed anchors or natural pro opportunities other than the grassy area right of the proposed route. I had planned on putting this up on lead. Again the question was would you go out there and climb it. |
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Do it on gear, and call it a personal achievement. |
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Looks good to me. Go for it. Don't fall. |
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Rob Selter wrote:Do it on gear, and call it a personal achievement.How do you lead a slab route on gear? There is no gear. The OP doesn't want to do the crack on the right, which looks protectable. To the OP, if they said don't bolt it, then don't bolt it. You could try asking them again, but will probably get the same answer. Edit: OP, it's going to be nigh impossible to get people to commit to climbing it before it's an established route. |
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Instead of proposing to the officials bolting a slab you want to do cause it looks fun, ground your proposal in what it will bring to area. How many 200ft 5.6-5.7's does the area have. How would developing this route enhance the crag? Bassically, change your proposal from "me" to "them+community." |
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As some who was very involved with the initial management of the CoR and the climbing management plan denying a permit based on the perceived popularity of the route is not an acceptable reason. Cruel Shoes could have fallen into the same category. Yet it is perhaps one the more popular routes at that grade. |
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I'd second what Allen has said above. I don't know the protocol for COR bolting but Brad is a reasonable guy and would lay out the ground rules and background. Perception of future impact/use/value doesn't seem much of a basis for denial. |
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I would climb that route. |
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I completely agree with the assessment of the park that this route will not become popular and will be climbed by very few due to its potential grade and distance from main climbing. I also agree this isn't a great reason to deny route development. As someone who isn't good at friction and enjoys spending my time on more traditional crack routes or difficult sport routes when visiting the city, I personally would never climb this route. |
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Isn't the clamshell home to a bunch of terrifying slab routes? A reasonably well protected moderate in the area would certainly hold some appeal! |
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Consider the potential route with regard to VERP and a mini NEPA. |
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I've spent extended climbing trips climbing slab all over the west due to shoulder issues and can't remember seeing hardly any stand-alone 5.6's or 5.7's. |
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I think the issues with regard to COR and easy face routes is...if its "easy" and well bolted, they will come. See Rain Dance. See Cruel Shoes. See Too Much Fun. Also, see the work the park has had to put into the staging area for those routes. So, that's VERP. |
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I think you may have something here. |
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Wow I hope that isnt what it cost for those new bingham routes, those routes are a ton of fun and much needed. |
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That sounds about right, a NEPA for a small trail system cost like $5000. |