Best 5.10 lead to break into the grade at Devils lake

Trying to set a good goal for next year at the lake, And have something to really train for this winter Any suggestions for the best 5.10 to aim for I hear cheetah is a good one but open to other suggestions.

The Pooper

I'm no expert, but these are a few I've lead and seemed reasonably protected and fun. I just used the search function for 5.10a - 5.10d at DL, so no 5.9+ routes (most of which are 5.10) are included in this list. YMMV

Callipigenous Crack
Sometimes
Watermarks Direct
Tardis (a bit harder and the start might pose a problem for a new 5.10 leader)

jon jugenheimer wrote:The Pooper

So many classic 10 leads!

Congrats is great and maybe the most popular first 10 lead, but the crux is close to the ground, so make sure your first piece is bomber. Callipigeanous is also a popular first 10, as many think it seems a bit low in the grade. Don't discount the runout easy climbing at the top, however. I'd also check out the 10s at Old Sanstone. Gargantua and Tarantula both have pretty good gear.

I think Zig Zag crack at Hillbilly is a good 10 lead, if you're not limiting your sights to DL.

Tarantula is arguably as safe as a lead as it is on TR (because of the swing on TR).

In my mind it depends on how you want to do it (headpoint or onsight) and what your strengths are. My general answer would be Congrats, but I think it is more nuanced than that.

I hated congrats. Way too painful. I'm a wuss though.

Cheetah is awesome but super long, semi-sustained, and pretty exposed. I forget if the gear was good but it's a rad lead for sure.

I'd bet that Congrats is the route at DL that sees the most lead falls. That jam is just soooo slippery.

Jay Knower wrote:I'd bet that Congrats is the route at DL that sees the most lead falls. That jam is just soooo slippery.

Chris treggE wrote:I hated congrats. Way too painful. I'm a wuss though.

Once you get old ALL you can remember is the glory days ....

Doug Hemken wrote:Once you get old ALL you can remember is the glory days ....

LOL. Leading congrats was most definitely not one of my glory days. Had fun with the crew I was with though.

Chris treggE wrote:LOL. Leading congrats was most definitely not one of my glory days. Had fun with the crew I was with though.

Doug Hemken wrote: Mike, once he starts to remember "Congrats" as the glory days, then you'll know you've all gotten old.

I've seen what Dylan describes too. It's usually an unfortunate case of a leader not getting the pro correct at the start.

[Beta alert! Stop reading if you want to onsight Congrats!]

....There's a great stopper placement right in the crux. It's either a #5, #6, or #7 stopper. I can never remember, so I usually just put all three sizes on a quickdraw and use the one that seems to fit on the given day. When you get this piece right, it's bomber, but since it's your first piece, zippering is a concern. Because of this, I place a blue TCU in a blip in the corner about three or four feet below the stopper. Also, best to have the belayer stay close to the wall.

So what I am hearing is:

if you are experienced placing gear on DL 8s and 9s, "Congrats" is a good first 10, otherwise not.

I know at least 2 people who have broken bones on the start of "Congrats", but I don't usually tell people that until *after* they've led it!

I protected it with a(the?) small(est?) ballnut. I sat on the thing, and it seemed pretty solid. Didn't send of course...

Sometimes crack!