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Routes in Lambda
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Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fun and Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glenda the Good Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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We Are off Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wicked West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wizard of Ooze T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,210 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A nice line up the South face but maybe a bit more exciting than one would expect. The Rock&Ice topo calls it "sandbagged", and indeed, 5.7 route-finding may be tricky.
The first pitch climbs a direct line up the east side of The Wizard, a pinnacle-like formation mid-way up the wall. A piton down low adjacent points you in the right direction. A good belay stance is found at the top of the Wizard.
The second pitch traverses out right towards a lone 1/4" bolt. A few variations exist here, but generally, one works up from this point and then traverses back over to the left to a belay stance below a large cleft in the roof above. If you end up too high, you can traverse left directly under this roof with good pro and make an airy turn around a corner (5.9) to get into the corner system which leads to the top.
The last pitch works up the wide corner system to the summit.
The first pitch climbs a direct line up the east side of The Wizard, a pinnacle-like formation mid-way up the wall. A piton down low adjacent points you in the right direction. A good belay stance is found at the top of the Wizard.
The second pitch traverses out right towards a lone 1/4" bolt. A few variations exist here, but generally, one works up from this point and then traverses back over to the left to a belay stance below a large cleft in the roof above. If you end up too high, you can traverse left directly under this roof with good pro and make an airy turn around a corner (5.9) to get into the corner system which leads to the top.
The last pitch works up the wide corner system to the summit.
Location
Locate this route by finding "the wizard", a pinnacle like formation midway up the wall. The descent is found by scrambling east on the south side of the summit and looking for a deep gully where rap-anchors are easily visible. Anchors are a mixture of bolts/chains/webbing of mixed vintage, but generally ok.
Protection
Ample placements exist on the 1st and 3rd pitches. the second pitch is a bit trickier depending on how you traverse and where you end up for the belay. Directly under the roof is an interesting low-density crust over the granite, which makes for easy, but tenous climbing, because it doesn't feel very solid.
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