Lambda Rock Climbing

Approach via the Topp Hut road and the trail which leads into Rabbit Ears Canyon (see The Citadel for details). It is easy to spot the wall and the routes on the South Face from the approach trail. The trail forks just before reaching the bottom of the canyon. Take the left (straight) fork (if you do notice the other taking off sharply to the right). Once on a boulder field, look for a cairn on the other side. From the bottom of the canyon, go up next to a large rock shown in the photo.

The trail is marked with cairns and somewhat used. It first traverses left, then goes up a rocky ridge, traverses left again, goes up a gully, and traverses left once more before the final upward push through the trees to the base of the, dihedral which leads to the Wizard pinnacle.

Expect 1-2hrs for the approach depending on how far along the Topp Hut road you can drive.

The descent from all routes is via a gully on the south side of the formation. From the top where the routes (Yellow Brick Road, Wizard of Ooze, and West Face) converge, traverse though a dead tree, past two live trees, and downclimb a corner to the base of it where the rap chains are located. It takes only a single rappel if you have two 60m ropes. But there are three 2-bolt rappel stations 85', 70' and 50' apart. Two single-rope rappels suffice (skipping the last station, which is not in a good condition) to get to some lower angled rock, where one can carefully scramble down to the base (4th class). When scrambling, head almost as much to the right as down until you reach the right end of the scooped out area, then go down. Once off the steep rock, you can traverse back to the start of the dihedral under the Wizard.