Climbing Technologies Alpine Up Review

Just to mitigate confusion with similarly named devices the one I will be discussing is shown below

youtube.com/watch?v=EogWFgH…

So this is my review of the Alpine up after about a full season of use on rock.

Usability:
So the best part of this belay device is that the method of operation is essentially the same as that of an ATC. The movements are identical, and it can serve as an assisted braking device. Any ATC user could transfer over fairly seamlessly without much learning curve.

It has 3 modes of use: Assisted braking (click up), Unassisted (Dynamic), and Guide mode. It takes a bit of practice and education with the manual to figure out how to properly set up the different settings, but it is fairly intuitive.

Feeding the device is one odd quirk that I guess is worth mentioning. With an ATC one can feed the device while a carabiner is clipped to the keeper wire. This makes dropping the device less of an issue. With the Alpine Up one must fully remove the device from any biners and thread it before clipping it back to the harness. This is a minor detail, but one must be a bit more sure handed while threading and unthreading this device. Further, threading the device for unassisted rappels with a larger/stiffer single can be difficult because the rope can sometimes move in front of the carabiner and be difficult to clip.

It is also slightly bulky in comparison to other devices in size and weight, so in overall usability and adaptability I'll give it a 8 or 9/10

Lead Belaying In Click Up Mode:

This is where this device really shines. It feeds just slightly worse than an ATC with the added benefit of assisted braking. Feeding is smooth with both double and single ropes. However, this devices truly shines when paired with doubles. It is one of the few devices that feeds well and brakes well with double ropes and allows one to maintain good double rope belay technique. Very easy to feed with one rope while taking in with the other. Another aspect where this device really shines is the speed and force with which one can pay out slack. It can really sense the difference between a hard pay and a fall and almost never locks up by accident. It catches a fall with a reassuring click, and no unwanted rope feeds through the device after a catch. However, this device like all other assisted braking devices is subject to rope characteristics. Single ropes feed well up to 9.8, but I wouldn't want to use larger than that. Double ropes will feed reasonably well within the listed diameter range. This device like others is also subject to variability based on the suppleness of the rope. Stiff ropes do not work as well. Giving slack will be absolutely fine, but unlocking the device is more difficult with stiffer ropes. Stiff doubles will be harder than a supple thin single, but a stiff larger single... Oh boy...
10/10 for supple ropes 8/10 for stiffer ones.

Lead Belay Dynamic Mode:
Very very similar braking power to an ATC without teeth. I feel my atc-xp or atc-guide have more "stopping power" than the alpine up in dynamic mode. I would be happier with a bit more grip especially with thin doubles, so I'll give this a 7/10. Perfectly adequate especially considering almost no other belay device will let you choose between assisted and non assisted belay modes.

Top Rope belay in click up mode:
Very nice. Not something I do often, but subject to the same quirks with rope differences as above. locks quite well for hangdog sessions. 8 or 9/10

Lowering and Rappelling Click-up mode:
Very dependent on rope size and stiffness. Stiff or fat ropes will NOT work well with this device in assisted rap or lowering mode. This is to the extent that my maxim glider 9.9 would not allow my climber to lower. With thinner and more supple ropes there is no problem, but don't expect to use this mode with a larger single.
When doing very long raps one must feed the device in order to get it moving smoothly, but as the rope weight decreases the rap becomes much smoother (same as all devices). But the assisted raps are oh soooo sweet. Can also jug back up the rope easily if needed. 9/10 if using a proper rope. Much less if not.

Lowering and Rapping in Dynamic mode:
Same as with an ATC. Use a backup and extend the device. feed nice and smooth, but can be a bit fast with thin doubles. 9/10

Guide belay:
This works super well, but has as odd quirk to it. With atc devices one can either feed the device first and then clip it to the anchor or in reverse order. For the alpine up on must feed the device first then clip it to the anchor. This is something I often forget because half the time I prefer to belay off my harness. Not a bad thing just something to remember. Taking in slack is no more difficult than with an atc guide, but harder than a kong gigi or mammut alpine smart 8/10

Durability:
So far this thing has stood up to the test, but excessive rapping with dirt ropes can wear a groove into the back of the device (similar to what happened in the first gen reversos). I have had no such problems yet. It handles getting bashed on rock like a champ and its construction in pretty burly. Normal scratches will apply. 10/10

The partner carabiner for this device is made to fit through the groove created for the dynamic mode, and it has a perfect radius for the channel in click up mode. It took some getting used to due to the keeper wire to prevent crossloading, but with a bit of practice it is easy to use. A BD Rock lock also fits fine in the dynamic notch for those looking for other carabiners.

Overall, this device is a pleasure to use. It has its quirks, but in my opinion far fewer than its competitors. It may be a tad heavy, but it's not something that should keep you from sending...

NOTE: The manual states one must use ropes of the same diameter when rappeling or belayining in click up mode. I haven't tested if it is absolutely necessary, but I could understand how the thinner rope could not get locked and potentially slip through the device cause the climber to plummet... keep in mind.

Total score for doubles and supple ropes:
62/70 Around 9/10 overall
For stiffer single ropes:
Somewhere around (7.5/10)

Feel free to ask anymore questions about the device. No I'm not affiliated with anyone. I paid $50 for it because I had $50 to amazon at the time. Money well spent.

I´ve tested the alpineUp back to back against a large selection of other devices and measured some of it´s parameters as well.

Feeding it takes more effort to pull the rope through than all but one other device. 2/10.
Lowering in locking mode. O.k with a heavy climber on overhanging rock otherwise rubbish or impossible. 3/10.
Rapping in locking mode-No.
Dynamic mode-the weakest belay device I´ve ever measured and about 1/2 the power of an ATC. Be good with little kids but nothing else. Rapping I didn´t bother with testing.
Top-roping in locking mode-too much effort to pull the rope through.3/10.
Braking performance- the best of this sort of device by far 8/10.
Guide mode- I never use this so no idea, the Smart Alpine was better in our pull-through force tests but lowering appears a challenge with them all.

The only time I would possibly use this device is with my 7.8mm twin/half ropes where the braking performance is good but due to it´s size and complexity it hasn´t repaced my current device with two karabiners which gives coparable performance. In our comparison test days cragging the assisted locking devices were all left on the side after trying them and everybody went back to the usual ATC XP/Grigri combination.

Jim Titt wrote:I´ve tested the alpineUp back to back against a large selection of other devices and measured some of it´s parameters as well. Feeding it takes more effort to pull the rope through than all but one other device. 2/10.

It may be more effort but it I never experience noticeable resistance with 8.5 mm half ropes. I think it is a significant advantage that one can belay palm up and that one hand isn't obliged to pull on a handle or loop to free up the device for pumping out slack, something that really screws up half-rope handling.

Jim Titt wrote:Lowering in locking mode. O.k with a heavy climber on overhanging rock otherwise rubbish or impossible. 3/10.

This is for top-roping, right? I'd agree, I use the dynamic mode for top-rope belaying most of the time. If you are speaking of belaying off the harness from above, I guess I haven't had to lower anyone more than a foot or two with it that way. No problems with that, but not much of a test.

Jim Titt wrote:Rapping in locking mode-No.

I have no problems at all with my 8.5's.

Jim Titt wrote:Dynamic mode-the weakest belay device I´ve ever measured and about 1/2 the power of an ATC. Be good with little kids but nothing else.

I surely wouldn't use it for lead belaying, but it seems to be ok for top-roping.

Jim Titt wrote:Rapping I didn´t bother with testing.

I wouldn't rap with it in dynamic mode either.

Jim Titt wrote:Top-roping in locking mode-too much effort to pull the rope through.3/10.

As mentioned, I usually use the now-maligned dynamic mode for top-roping. I have used locking mode with my 8.5's occasionally, don't recall any big effort in doing so.

Jim Titt wrote:Braking performance- the best of this sort of device by far 8/10.

Thank goodness it isn't a total bust!

Jim Titt wrote: Guide mode- I never use this so no idea, the Smart Alpine was better in our pull-through force tests but lowering appears a challenge with them all.

I've used it a little in guide mode with the 8.5's. Not hard to take in rope. Never had to lower with it, but as you say none of the guide mode devices lower well.

Jim Titt wrote: The only time I would possibly use this device is with my 7.8mm twin/half ropes where the braking performance is good but due to it´s size and complexity it hasn´t repaced my current device with two karabiners which gives coparable performance. In our comparison test days cragging the assisted locking devices were all left on the side after trying them and everybody went back to the usual ATC XP/Grigri combination.

Yeah, I get it, but personally I still find the device the best thing going for handling half ropes. I don't use it on anything other than 8.5mm or under lines. However, the tests you've performed do cast doubts on its performance...I don't recommend it to anyone any more but continue to use it myself.

Will an article appear somewhere about all these comparisons? The reports one sees in the U.S. mags are totally worthless.

Ah well, I prefer not to do reviews just testing since a lot in a review is personal taste, they are usually of dubious value anyway. For example the review above gives lowering "9/10 if using a proper rope. Much less if not." which is ludicrous since I tried a lot of "proper" climbing ropes and couldn´t lower a substantial climber with a lot of them, a disciple that nearly all belay devices master effortlessly. My Grigri worked every time and so did my ATC XP so where´s 9 from 10 come from?
For thin half/twin ropes it´s good, for single ropes up to it´s maximum rating it isn´t.

Jim Titt wrote:Ah well, I prefer not to do reviews just testing since a lot in a review is personal taste, they are usually of dubious value anyway. For example the review above gives lowering "9/10 if using a proper rope. Much less if not." which is ludicrous since I tried a lot of "proper" climbing ropes and couldn´t lower a substantial climber with a lot of them, a disciple that nearly all belay devices master effortlessly. My Grigri worked every time and so did my ATC XP so where´s 9 from 10 come from? For thin half/twin ropes it´s good, for single ropes up to it´s maximum rating it isn´t.

Jim,

Most of my experience with it has been with double ropes, or small single line (9.3/9.4 or so). My experience lowering and rapping on both has been fine. The locking rap feature has proven quite useful as well

Reading your comments makes me wonder if we are actually talking about the same device. (Are you using it with the supplied biner?)

Jim Titt wrote: Feeding it takes more effort to pull the rope through than all but one other device. 2/10.

In click-up mode, feeding rope in or out is effortless. I find it much easier than an ATC, Reverso, Mega/Micro Jul, or Smart Alpine.

Jim Titt wrote: Lowering in locking mode. O.k with a heavy climber on overhanging rock otherwise rubbish or impossible. 3/10. Rapping in locking mode-No.

I do this all the time. Used 10+mm single ropes and 7.5mm twins, and all kinds of diameters in between. Never had an issue. Really like the added security of the click up as it allows me to go hands free if needed to clear rope tangles and the like.

Jim Titt wrote: Dynamic mode-the weakest belay device I´ve ever measured and about 1/2 the power of an ATC. Be good with little kids but nothing else. Rapping I didn´t bother with testing.

I've never used dynamic mode for belaying the leader. Click up mode works so well, I've never seen the point. I've rapped off in dynamic mode with both single and double ropes. It's smooth and fast. I did it with bare hands. Gloves would have been better, but I didn't have any problems controlling my descent bare handed. I prefer click up mode rapps because of the ease and safety.

Jim Titt wrote:Top-roping in locking mode-too much effort to pull the rope through.3/10.

Again, I have found click-up mode to be pretty much effortless both taking in slack and feeding out slack.

Jim Titt wrote: Braking performance- the best of this sort of device by far 8/10.

Braking performance is excellent.

Jim Titt wrote: Guide mode- I never use this so no idea, the Smart Alpine was better in our pull-through force tests but lowering appears a challenge with them all.

Guide mode is great. The only device I've used with smoother guide mode performance is a GiGi/Plaquette. Lowering is much smoother/easier with the Alpine Up than with a Reverso/ATC.

I've started using the Alpine Up for pretty much all of my cragging. It's probably going to be my alpine climbing device of choice too, if I can get past the weight penalty.

I have been using the alpine up for 2 years and it is by far the best belay/rapel device I have used in 35 years of climbing.

It lead belays very well playing out rope easily and assist locks reliably, better in my mind than A grigri.

Top rope belay is great because you can lock the line and still take up slack.

I have worried about lowering but the release lever works well.

Rapelling is very nice with the ability to go hands free at a ny time.

It does twist my rope rapelling sometimes. Sometimes the twisting is very bad, sometimes not at all. I have yet to figure out what makes the difference.

I agree with the reviewer's review. And yeah it seems pretty heavy when I am thinking I want to go light.

"Jim Titt wrote:
Lowering in locking mode. O.k with a heavy climber on overhanging rock otherwise rubbish or impossible. 3/10. Rapping in locking mode-No."

"I do this all the time. Used 10+mm single ropes and 7.5mm twins, and all kinds of diameters in between. Never had an issue. Really like the added security of the click up as it allows me to go hands free if needed to clear rope tangles and the like."

Yup, that´s why I keep well away from reviews of this kind generally. It´s not clear from your reply whether you are talking about lowering or rappelling but both the OP and myself found with thick ropes it was a considerable problem if not impossible.
If you are talking about rappelling then you should be aware that your thoughts on a single 10+mm rope in locking mode are irrelevant as this is forbidden by the manufacturers. "Attention! The self-locking abseil with a single rope is not allowed". (Quite why rapping is forbidden when one would hope belaying with a single strand will function is not clear). That there is an addendum to the instructions of how to facilitate abseiling "when it is quite difficult" involving adding another karabiner somewhat discouraged me from testing this aspect, with some of my ropes it was doomed to failure anyway.

I will try to make it very clear:

When lowering a climber (for example, on a sport route, where my partner has clipped the chains and I am lowering him to the ground) I have never had any problems lowering in click-up mode. I've used a single Sterling 9.8, single Sterling 9.4, an Edelweiss 10.5, and an Edelrid that I'm not entirely sure of the diameter, but somewhere in the 9.5mm range I would guess.

No problems lowering my partner on any of these ropes. This is true on overhanging sport routes, and slabby trad routes.

When rappelling, I always rappel on two ropes. When I write about rapping on single ropes, I mean that I am rapping on two strands of a rope that is rated as a single rope (as opposed to a half or twin rating.) I don't meant that I am rappelling on a single strand of rope.

I've rapped on ropes from Edelrid, Sterling, Edelweiss, and a couple of ropes I don't know the brands of, in diameters from 7.5mm to 10.5mm.

Never had any issues. Never had to resort to adding another carabiner as shown in the video. Starting out on low angle terrain, with a lot of rope beneath me, I will sometimes use my non-brake hand to raise the trailing rope above the device to make feeding easier. It's not a hassle, however, and I've always been able to manage a smooth and controlled descent.

I'm not sure how you could even have an opinion on the subject of rappelling if you didn't test this aspect of use yourself.

Bottom line is that I've done thousands of feet of belaying and rappelling with this device with a wide variety of rope diameters and types. I have yet to find a situation in which it did not perform well, and in most cases, it works better than any other device I've used.

Jim Titt wrote: "Jim Titt wrote: Lowering in locking mode. O.k with a heavy climber on overhanging rock otherwise rubbish or impossible. 3/10. Rapping in locking mode-No." "I do this all the time. Used 10+mm single ropes and 7.5mm twins, and all kinds of diameters in between. Never had an issue. Really like the added security of the click up as it allows me to go hands free if needed to clear rope tangles and the like." Yup, that´s why I keep well away from reviews of this kind generally. It´s not clear from your reply whether you are talking about lowering or rappelling but both the OP and myself found with thick ropes it was a considerable problem if not impossible. If you are talking about rappelling then you should be aware that your thoughts on a single 10+mm rope in locking mode are irrelevant as this is forbidden by the manufacturers. "Attention! The self-locking abseil with a single rope is not allowed". (Quite why rapping is forbidden when one would hope belaying with a single strand will function is not clear). That there is an addendum to the instructions of how to facilitate abseiling "when it is quite difficult" involving adding another karabiner somewhat discouraged me from testing this aspect, with some of my ropes it was doomed to failure anyway.

I have used the standard Clip-Up device quite a bit, and found that it is picky with belay carabiners. For example, the Metolius Gatekeeper does not allow the Click-Up to orient correctly into locked position, and will therefore allow some rope to slip through with body weight applied. Funny considering they market it as a carabiner tailored to "semi-automatic belay devices".

I found the BD Gridlock to be an excellent pair with the Click-up. I'm betting these details also apply to the Alpine Up, but would like to hear more feedback in that regard.

folks

regardless of the merits of the device, i would be VERY careful in saying the the words "hands free" about it in assisted braking mode

ive seen plenty of folks use devices such as the smart, gri gri and etc taking their hands off because someone told em it was "hands free"

;)

bearbreeder wrote:folks regardless of the merits of the device, i would be VERY careful in saying the the words "hands free" about it in assisted braking mode ive seen plenty of folks use devices such as the smart, gri gri and etc taking their hands off because someone told em it was "hands free" ;)

Some people are their own worst enemies and no amount of warnings will deter them from killing themselves. Verbiage on the internet will not prevent Darwin from getting his pound of flesh.

CT lists the rope range for the Alpine up as 7.3-10.5mm, and my guess that Jim tested the range the manufacturer claims.

I've been yapping for years that manufacturers claim ridiculous ranges for their devices, none of which perform well at the ends of the advertised spectrum, suffering handing problems at the large end and friction problems at the small end. I've suggested that the middle third of the claimed ranges is more likely to be the range for adequate performance; that would be about 8.3-9.5mm for the Alpine Up. Of course, that's too narrow a range for marketing purposes, but my guess is performance will not be so good outside those narrow limits.

I've experimented with the extra carabiner CT suggests to mitigate the effect of rope weight making it hard to descend when rapping in the locking orientation. It works and is smooth on my 8.5's, but it introduces so much twisting in the strands that I gave up on it early on. I don't have any rappel troubles most of the time. If the rappel is long and overhanging, so that I have the full weight of 60m of rope on the device, then the rope has to be fed in for twenty or thirty feet, at which point it works normally.

Just my 2-cents from the field using an Alpine Up this spring/summer season on a sterling 9.2 Evolution Aero Dry, which is a fairly soft rope. I won't even try to score anything -- just some subjective observations from use in the local mountains during some class 4 and easy-5 alpine climbing and descents.

Belaying with a single line in dynamic mode, it's controllable. But I wouldn't take my eyes off the leader if there was any chance of a hard fall. To be honest, I'd prefer two carabiners under my ATC guide for a dynamic belay on a single strand of the Aero.

In assisted mode, I'd want to be able to move around, as with a Grigri. However, I think I slightly prefer the feel of the Alpine Up's lock-off to that of a Grigri. I haven't tried using it from a lead.

Rappelling, I use it in assisted mode. It's very controlable on the doubled line using the supplied carabiner. A BD Rocklock will also work in the device, but I think it makes the locking action somewhat more aggressive. I haven't had any reason to try the second carabiner feed. It can be locked hands-free, though I do always keep something else on the rope. I could jug on it if necessary by locking-off my backup above the device. For me, the assisted locking during rappels is its greatest appeal.

Seems to be wearing fairly well with just the usual anodizing being rubbed off, and the plastic handle seems fine. Doesn't appear to impart any undue rope twist, though the rope is getting rather fuzzy. As mentioned at the top, threading a rope means un-tethering the device, which is a little disconcerting.

Never owned one but seems to me this device is comparable to Mega Jul ...

It is comparable only in that both are assisted locking devices. Other than that, it is very different, and the substantial differences are enumerated and cataloged all over the internet if you are interested in comparing them.

Nope. The Mega Jul is inferior to the Alpine Up for half ropes.

I agree with Rgold on this one, I bought a megajul shortly after buying a pair of bluewater 8.4s and was pretty disappointed. Despite testing it with about a dozen different lockers it provided a lot less friction than just about any other belay device I "tested".

It turns out that its great for a single rope though and is pretty much all I use for singles nowadays.

The microjul is a different story, it works better than any other device I "tested" on the fuzzy 8.4's and feeds well enough to provide a good belay even without using the thumb loop. For the biner I've settled on the omega pacific jake, for both the mega and micro and with a bunch of different rope diameters. It seems to consistently provide the most friction.

I wouldn't mind giving the alpine up a go but the price and weight are a bit much.

Rgold, have you tried the micro on your doubles?

Anything further on this?

Jake T wrote: Rgold, have you tried the micro on your doubles?

The specifications for the micro jul state, "suitable for 6.9 - 8.0 mm double and twin ropes," and my doubles are 8.5's, so no.

Old lady H wrote:Anything further on this?

Sorry, I meant any further thoughts on this device from those who've had a chance to kick it around? IF it measures up to the original review, does what the videos show it doing, it sounds like it could be a good choice as an alternative to a grigri, cinch, or any of the juls. I'm pretty happy with my ATC, and my competency with it, but I also get that I might want to consider an assisted belay device down the road. I've read all the failure mode threads, and grigris don't work worth a darn for me, so this one seems a possibility.

It is also a pretty curious freak twisting of the laws of whatever for rgold and Jim titt to be so far off from each other. ; )