New DMM belay devices
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More gear report here, including new belay devices: |
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So many what I just call 'rip offs' of the basic ATC,,,which was just an upgrade from the 70's Sticht plate device....so many of the new shapes of an ATC just end up binding and not feeding well, or stick when you try to haul in rope,,I've tried probably at least 15 different devices and have found most to just be a waste of money....an ATC is always fine,,and my 'assisted' lock is the 'Click=up' device,,i love that thing,,way better than the Smart. |
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The CAMP Matik you posted above looks super interesting. I've never been satisfied with the a GriGri (1 or 2) and while I liked the Cinch, it was never 100% confidence inspiring. |
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Jon H wrote:The CAMP Matik you posted above looks super interesting. I've never been satisfied with the a GriGri (1 or 2) and while I liked the Cinch, it was never 100% confidence inspiring. The Matik (claims to) solve both those problems. We'll see how it actually turns out. Any idea when it will be available?spring 2015 275g ~ 100 euros in euroland https://translate.google.ca/translate?hl=en&sl=it&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lecconotizie.com%2Feconomia%2Fda-camp-arriva-matik-rivoluzionera-la-sicurezza-nellarrampicata-178601%2F translate.google.ca/transla… ;) |
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Jawon wrote:Any predictions how the Matik would perform on roped solo leads, compared to the GriGri versions or Edelrid Eddy? Seems like it could overcome the shortcomings of the existing devices. And the Grip looks like a fall causes the device to pinch the rope against the biner. Interesting, but probably too sketchy for roped solo leads?Can't say anything about the matik, but it seems clear that the grip can not be used for any soloing purpose. It is more of a soft braking assistance, which requires a hand on the rope both to initiate and maintain braking. |
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Splitter choss has the grip at $50 MSRP |
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So how do you lower a climber with the DMM Grip? Seems like the normal position your would keep your brake hand in for lowering someone with an ATC would just cause the to go into "assisted hold mode" or whatever you want to call it. |
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I have bought or tried every belay device made in the last 35 years known to man....like some,,sold off a few, and am finally saying I DON'T need to get or try one more. They all work pretty much the same,,even the brake assist ones still feed rope through, around a carabiner, and back up to a braking hand. I'm done buying belay devices. I can always just wrap that rope around my phat' ass and do a mountaineers hip belay as a last resort. |
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Cool. Love mah Pivot...finally found something worth replacing my ATC Guide with. |
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I'm honestly not sure what purpose the Mantis serves. Can't guide-mode like the Pivot, and gives less friction than the Bug... |
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Yeah, just looks like a regular tube style device to me. |
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FYI: The Grip is no longer in work (and is never coming to market). I just talked to the DMM guys at a recent trade show and they said the project was scrapped. Apparently after extensive testing they couldn't get the magnets keep their strength for a duration they considered acceptable (years+). And the necessary bulk they'd have to add killed the weight range and aesthetics they were going for. |