Those fancy hook anchors
|
Hey, |
|
Those Mussey Hooks are perfect for top-roping sport routes; practically made for them. Replaceable after a metaphoric zillion TR's. Just use them and wonder why they aren't on more TR prone routes. (They are the most appropriate TR anchors out there, IMHO.) EDIT: Look how excited I was back then! To be honest, I almost always TR off my own draws and lower my partner on the hooks when we're done. You should probably do the same. |
|
Top rope on your own gear, unless your willing to help replace them when they wear out. They do wear out eventually and cost $, so why not try and make them last longer. |
|
Gyms are using mussy hooks now? |
|
"Hook style" probably does not mean mussey hooks in this case, but in any case if you are going to TR you attach your own gear so that it takes the wear of TRing instead of the public anchor, usually a draw on each bolt so that the bottom gates are opposed. Have someone who is experienced show you how. The hooks are made for lowering (that is if they are indeed as you describe). |
|
Hi all, |
|
rob bauer wrote:Those Mussey Hooks are perfect for top-roping sport routes; practically made for them. Replaceable after a metaphoric zillion TR's. Just use them and wonder why they aren't on more TR prone routes. (They are the most appropriate TR anchors out there, IMHO and the ONLY ones I don't use my own gear on.)Really Rob? Mmmmm, how about you use them to lower and TR on your own gear. |
|
Edubs wrote:Hi all, Thanks for your replies. I googled mussy hooks and that's not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about this guy: mountainproject.com/v/10671… I'm comfortable setting up all types of anchors, just wasn't sure about etiquette on these guys, but M Sprague answered my concern, which was that my biners would damage these anchors, causing rope damage for those who might be TRing off of them. Sounds like my biners won't cause any harm, so I'll just use my own gear. Thanks!Ugh yeah, those are called "cold shuts." It's an outdated anchor style. Once they wear through, that's it, and the bolt needs to be pulled to replace them. (Easier to do at a gym than outdoors.) User friendly for the climber if they are still intact, but I wouldn't even lower off those. Rap only. Mussies are normally connected to the bolt with easily removable quicklinks, which makes them simple to replace when they eventually show wear. |
|
rob bauer wrote: Those Mussey Hooks are perfect for top-roping sport routes; practically made for them. Replaceable after a metaphoric zillion TR's. Just use them and wonder why they aren't on more TR prone routes. (They are the most appropriate TR anchors out there, IMHO and the ONLY ones I don't use my own gear on.) Can we hear an "AMEN" for J. Alber's remark to Rob Bauer. Use your own gear, Rob! |
|
Lower off but those are no bueno for tr, imo. |
|
Cold shuts can be goofy to set up tr on. Especially if they don't have a gate (some are just open hooks. |
|
One of the things many don’t consider is that the rope acts as an abrasive. I’m a jeweler and I use the same technique to polish hard to reach spaces. We lace a length of string lightly coated with rouge through the jewelry and draw it back and forth. This polishes(removes) metal. |
|
"Simon W. Once they wear through, that's it, and the bolt needs to be pulled to replace them. |
|
Benjamin Chapman wrote: This was worth resurrecting a 5 year old thread? Just to pick on Rob? |
|
|
|
climber pat wrote: "Simon W. Once they wear through, that's it, and the bolt needs to be pulled to replace them. All valid points. I didn't mean to suggest that the holes need to be re-drilled, simply that the fastener has to be removed. However if cold shuts weren't used in the first place it wouldn't be necessary to remove the nut or bolt every few years when the shuts inevitably wear through (assuming we are talking about a route which is going to see some traffic.) A lot less straightforward and protentially problematic, as you suggest with rust, than it would be to replace fixed hardware which is attached to a bolt hanger with quick links. |
|
Simon W wrote:However if cold shuts weren't used in the first place it wouldn't be necessary to remove the nut or bolt every few years when the shuts inevitably wear through (assuming we are talking about a route which is going to see some traffic.) Are new routes going in with cold shuts for anchors? Are cold shuts really being replaced with cold shuts and not something much better? In 2019? |
|
Marc801 C wrote: I don’t know about currently but I’ve encountered a few routes in the last couple of years that have new cold shuts on them. The kind with gates. In both cases installed with powers five piece bolts. |