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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Sal Mamusia and Richard Harrison 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,546 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | J. Thompson on Sep 19, 2011 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Here's the basic description, I'll add a comment that will clear up some things and provide some additional beta, please read it!
Pitch 1: Start up the left facing corner system, there are a couple of ways to do this. Continue up the obvious crack and corner system aiming for the first big bush covered ledge and belay. 215ft, 5.10.
Pitch 2: Climb off the left side of the ledge up towards a slightly lower angle bushy area. Avoid most of the bushes by climbing on the right. Step back left through the biggest bush. The crack above the biggest bush is filled with loose blocks, these can be avoided by traversing out left on a ledgy area then back right into the corner(its obvious). Once back in the corner climb up until a ledge/foot rail/ramp thing appears on the right. Follow this out and around the corner to a ledge. Belay here if the rope drag in bad, or continue up another 40 ft(or so) to the huge bushy ledge. 150-190 ft, 5.10.
Pitch 3: Either move the belay to the other side of the ledge or climb the forty feet up from the previous ledge. On the ledge,stop under the only crack that doesn't pinch down into nothing, its 3/4 of the way across the big ledge. 150ft, 5.8.
Pitch 4: Climb the aforementioned crack. Get gear where you can. about half way up you'll encounter a slab section. The left side (where a crack should be) is full of vegation, so step over right and gain the corner. Once in the corner, there is a key #3 Camalot placement, have one when you get there. Do full foot to foot stemming up the wide channel, starfish! This wide channel is capped by a roof, pass it on the right. Yard up one last section of vegated and flared crack and belay on the nice, big, flat ledge. 130 ft, 5.10+
Pitch 5: Start by traversing out left on the ledge, balancy and exposed. Climb the corner/flake system above to a sloping ledge. Climb off the right side, over a bulge,to the face above. Climb past a tree and up the corner and slab above. Pass the first crux just after the tree. You're now climbing on the black water streak in the center of the wall. Get to a nice little ledge/stance, place some gear and contemplate the crux above. Figure your way through the bulge and small holds. There is a key thread (currently fixed) just above the crux. Climb up into another steep section. Here it gets tricky. Either continue up the weird,hard,steepness above or tension traverse off the now fixed #2 cam down and right into the obvious chimney/ flare. Climb the chimney/ flare up to a big bushy ledge. If you continue straight up find a belay up there somewhere!
150ft, 5.11, AO. or 5.11?
Pitch 6: We soloed off from here by heading up and right, then back left, then right again. Following the path of least resistance. If you went straight up, on pitch 5, there is supposedly another pitch of 5.8 or 5.9 climbing. 200ft, 5.6.
Pitch 1: Start up the left facing corner system, there are a couple of ways to do this. Continue up the obvious crack and corner system aiming for the first big bush covered ledge and belay. 215ft, 5.10.
Pitch 2: Climb off the left side of the ledge up towards a slightly lower angle bushy area. Avoid most of the bushes by climbing on the right. Step back left through the biggest bush. The crack above the biggest bush is filled with loose blocks, these can be avoided by traversing out left on a ledgy area then back right into the corner(its obvious). Once back in the corner climb up until a ledge/foot rail/ramp thing appears on the right. Follow this out and around the corner to a ledge. Belay here if the rope drag in bad, or continue up another 40 ft(or so) to the huge bushy ledge. 150-190 ft, 5.10.
Pitch 3: Either move the belay to the other side of the ledge or climb the forty feet up from the previous ledge. On the ledge,stop under the only crack that doesn't pinch down into nothing, its 3/4 of the way across the big ledge. 150ft, 5.8.
Pitch 4: Climb the aforementioned crack. Get gear where you can. about half way up you'll encounter a slab section. The left side (where a crack should be) is full of vegation, so step over right and gain the corner. Once in the corner, there is a key #3 Camalot placement, have one when you get there. Do full foot to foot stemming up the wide channel, starfish! This wide channel is capped by a roof, pass it on the right. Yard up one last section of vegated and flared crack and belay on the nice, big, flat ledge. 130 ft, 5.10+
Pitch 5: Start by traversing out left on the ledge, balancy and exposed. Climb the corner/flake system above to a sloping ledge. Climb off the right side, over a bulge,to the face above. Climb past a tree and up the corner and slab above. Pass the first crux just after the tree. You're now climbing on the black water streak in the center of the wall. Get to a nice little ledge/stance, place some gear and contemplate the crux above. Figure your way through the bulge and small holds. There is a key thread (currently fixed) just above the crux. Climb up into another steep section. Here it gets tricky. Either continue up the weird,hard,steepness above or tension traverse off the now fixed #2 cam down and right into the obvious chimney/ flare. Climb the chimney/ flare up to a big bushy ledge. If you continue straight up find a belay up there somewhere!
150ft, 5.11, AO. or 5.11?
Pitch 6: We soloed off from here by heading up and right, then back left, then right again. Following the path of least resistance. If you went straight up, on pitch 5, there is supposedly another pitch of 5.8 or 5.9 climbing. 200ft, 5.6.
Location
The Hidden wall is located at the head of the south fork of Ice Box Canyon. The first 3 ascents of this wall/route approached from the loop road all the way up Ice Box canyon. This is a long approach! An easier approach exsists. Drive up the Rocky Gap road and park at the "trailhead" for the Buffalo wall. Hike up the trail to the rim of the canyons. Head right to the top of Ice box. There is currently a tree with blue rap slings above the entrance slabs marking the head of the correct canyon. You don't need to rap, the down climbing is no big deal. Continue down the canyon, staying generally left. There are currently cairns leading the way. Pay attention for an obvious ledge system that heads out (right) across the wall, above the mossy slabs below. There is a bit of a trail, presumably formed by Big horn sheep. Follow this ledge system all the way around. You'll be below the Hidden wall proper now. Keep traversing, you need to follow another ledge system out and around the "pedastal" that divides the lower part of the wall. Once around the pedastal, scramble up to where the pedastal meets the wall. Pitch one starts right around that area, its pretty obvious. To Descend head back to the rim and hike down the trail.
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