Mountain Project Logo

Home climbing wall with adjustable crack -- looking for additional beta

Original Post
nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,718

During a search on home climbing walls I found this link climerware.com/wall4.htm and liked the idea of an adjustable crack on a tiltable, freestanding wall, and I'd like to build one myself. Only problem is that there aren't any specifics in the construction, and the guys e-mail was not longer valid. I could probably figure out the rest of the details on my own, but I was hoping that someone on here would either know how to reach this guy, or have personal experience with this type of design. Any help would be much appreciated - thanks!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I see an open space in the diagram but not sure what they mean by a 'crack'. My experience has been to get 2 long 2 by 10's or 2 by 12's, whatever length you have room for. Carriage bolts about 6 or more inches long, with 4 nuts & washers per bolt. I flexed the boards (I used 20 footers), and bolt the 2 boards together, spaced with the nuts and washers, to whatever width crack I want to create. Bolts are set back far enough in the boards so they don't get in the way of your hand jams. Put in bolts at least every 2 or 3 feet, depends on the crack you create.

Choose how you want to fasten the base, top and sides of frame, similar to the set up in that diagram I guess. Tilt to angle you like, fixed or adjustable is your decision, and then screw your plywood sheets right flush with the ends of boards. Sand off the rough wood, coat all the boards if you want with a sandy texture of some sort to enjoy some painful jams.

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 7,718

Thanks for your help Woodchuck.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

what route you training for? tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/h…

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Adjustables suck, go side by side non-adjustables....a "crack rack". Google crack rack for a good one in a michigan gym. Won't cost much more because you won't have to buy the hardware..all-thread/nuts/washers, just a few extra 2x10s.

I say this as someone who's had multiple adjustables. After a while, you get tired of adjusting the damn things, and if you want to work multiple sizes in a session, you'll get really irritated. Unless you have yours outside, and it's higher than say 12', you're almost as well off just building a hang board version of a crack rack with shorty slots about 4' long, just enough to make one full extension move and back down.

That said, I've seen some really cool outdoor adjustables that are like 25' tall, fastened to the side of the house, or a redwood tree. A couple that are with full-on framing and plywood instead of boards, so you can do OW on them and really get deep.

KevinCO · · Loveland, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 60

When I made mine out of 14' 2x10s and all thread, I used real sandstone that I contruction glued on. I am planning on building another one (the first one was destroyed when the tree it was attached to blew down).

I am thinking about using cultured stone if I can find some for a bargain. If not, I may go to the quarry and find thin narrow sandstone again.

Also, I put galvanized pipe through at the very top and bottom in order to secure it better. Because of the weight of the stone and the pipe attachments, it was very stable while climbing it.

If you use stone, it is important to clamp or weight it in place while the glue is drying.

It wound up leaning and overhanging a little which of course made it a lot harder.

Although I made it adjustable, I also never adjusted it. Actually, the real stone of differnet thicknesses gave varying sizes.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Here's a couple shots of the crack built into our wood wall. It's 16 ft high, 6 inches deep, flares from 5 inches wide to a finger crack, then back to offwidth again.(see #4 Camalot in lower crack). Works for fist, hand,finger and toe jams, and laybacks. Not a variable angle, but at least steep. Inside surface has varied texture coatings, and small chip holds in places. All screw ons, no glue ups.

Upper half of crack.

Lower wide section of crack, with large cam inserted for scale.

Stever · · WA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 56
Will S wrote:Adjustables suck, go side by side non-adjustables....a "crack rack". Google crack rack for a good one in a michigan gym. Won't cost much more because you won't have to buy the hardware..all-thread/nuts/washers, just a few extra 2x10s. I say this as someone who's had multiple adjustables. After a while, you get tired of adjusting the damn things, and if you want to work multiple sizes in a session, you'll get really irritated. Unless you have yours outside, and it's higher than say 12', you're almost as well off just building a hang board version of a crack rack with shorty slots about 4' long, just enough to make one full extension move and back down. That said, I've seen some really cool outdoor adjustables that are like 25' tall, fastened to the side of the house, or a redwood tree. A couple that are with full-on framing and plywood instead of boards, so you can do OW on them and really get deep.
Do you have any photos of this? I googled crack rack and it only returned results for climbing racks
rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

I made one that you can adjust the width by yourself without unscrewing anything. It also tilts but that does require removing the two bolts at the top and re-positioning them although it can still be done with a ladder and one person. I have a sketch around somewhere. It was built in a garage with a tall ceiling so requires a solid floor and access to a floor joist (in the ceiling).

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
rging wrote:I made one that you can adjust the width by yourself without unscrewing anything. It also tilts but that does require removing the two bolts at the top and re-positioning them although it can still be done with a ladder and one person. I have a sketch around somewhere. It was built in a garage with a tall ceiling so requires a solid floor and access to a floor joist (in the ceiling).
Can you post pictures??

Also put them in the "What does your Woody look like???" forum with details (Angles, and space available).
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Not adjustable, but...

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
mountainhick wrote:Not adjustable, but...
AMAZING
Kent Pease · · Littleton, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,066

The Hick Man ^^^ is wise, has a good system, and is a fine craftsman.

I tried posting .pdf's of two adjustable designs, but the system apparently doesn't support that format. I'll be happy to e-mail them to you at your request.

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130
Kent Pease wrote:The Hick Man ^^^ is wise, has a good system, and is a fine craftsman. I tried posting .pdf's of two adjustable designs, but the system apparently doesn't support that format. I'll be happy to e-mail them to you at your request.
Yup, please. I´m building a home woody cave. in a room of 8 feet high, 5.5 feet deep, and 10 feet long. is a small room so I have to optimize space. I´m building a very versatile wall. that changes geometry. i also want to incorporate a crack, but need it adjustable so it can be versatile for different problems.

As soon as I finish (first week of December) i will put up the pictures.
rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

I can't find a single picture of the darn thing so let me try to explain how I made and adjustable, tilt-able model.

1. Figure out how tall you need it to be.

2. Once you have the height figured out cut your 2x8 to length (2 ea).

3. Cut a 2x4 shorter than your 2x8 and screw it together forming a t-shape. This will stiffen the main piece (2ea).

4. Cut a 1x8 shorter than your 2x8 and nail it to the opposite side of the 2x4 using finishing nails. This will allow you to adjust the width to less than the thickness of the ceiling rafter you will attach it to.

5. Cut the 2x8 end which will face the floor in a rounded manner and drill a 1.2 inch hole in it. This will allow the object to tilt and will attach to your angle iron.

6. Drill/Form a 1/2 inch wide x long slot in the 2x8 end facing the roof. This will allow easy adjustment for tilting and attach to the rafter.

7. Cut 3x3 angle iron about six inches long (2ea). Drill a 1/2 inch hole in each so you can pass a bolt through both pieces and the two crack supports.

8. Bolt the two angle iron pieces to the floor.

9. Take your two finished main crack pieces and bolt them to the angle iron.

10. The top should now be in the ceiling overlapping a rafter joist. Move the contraptions forward and back and mark a few spots in the joist to drill a hole. I had three positions, vertical, overhanging, and less than vertical.

11. Cut shims out of plywood in a U shape or square with a 1/2 inch slot in them. This will allow you to set them in place and have them stay there while tightening the bolts which only need to be hand tight. You will need the same size/thickness of shim at the top and bottom of the system.

12. The crack is still not stiff enough so you need to get the shortest bar clamp you can find and use that in the middle of the span. Screw a short piece of 2x4 in on both main supports so the bar clmap can sit on top of it because it won't be tight enough to hold itself in place.

13. Cut a few more small pieces of 2x4 and screw along the span (both sides with access toward the front). This will allow you to grab a hold of something and/or climb down before falling.

Apologies for the lack of picture, I'll ask my buddy who's garage its in to take a few and send them on.

Crude sketch of main supports.

Justin S · · Plattsburgh, NY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120

Sanllan any pics of the wall?

Jordan T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

Mine does not tilt, but is adjustable from fingers to hand stacks. Built with 2x10x12fts for the sides and 2x4s for the supports. Spacing between the adjustable bolts is 3ft.

crack machine

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

soon pictures, haven´t finish my woody.

video of a testing (two months old) of what i have so far:
facebook.com/video.php?v=10…

Project has been in standby but the idea is to put the adjustable cracks in the middle.
will be adjusted in angle and width. lets see what it comes out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Home climbing wall with adjustable crack -- loo…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.