Just A Smidgen Harder
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 100 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Greg Hand, Richard Burrows, PH, 7/29/2014 |
Page Views: | 6,400 total · 54/month |
Shared By: | Greg Hand on Jul 29, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
It's actually a lot harder.
The 1st pitch climbs the slanting roof above For the Children and is about 5.10b.
The 2nd pitch (10+) has a crux above the belay and one just before the anchors. Follow line of bolts on the left side of the final roof. Realize the 10b/c consensus rating is because many people only do the 1st pitch and rate it 10a. The 2nd pitch is harder. As someone indicated, they did it in 1 long pitch, but there will be tremendous rope drag at the top crux.
A 60m rope will make it to the ground on rappel. You probably cannot lower because of abrasion. Because of current river noise, you will not be able to hear the leader. This may change by season. Belaying from the midway anchors, you will not be able to see the leader. Have a plan in advance. The 1st pitch is very good on its own, and you can lower to the ground.
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