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Kachina Tower North
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1
Avg: 2.4 from 10
votes
Routes in The Kachina Spires
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Beyond the 80th Meridian T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 R |
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Kachina Tower North T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Kachina Tower South T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Paul Ross Andy Ross. May 2 2000 |
| Page Views: | 2,719 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Aug 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Permits are now required for climbing in Hell Roaring and Mineral Canyons. See section below for details.
Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Notice the topo in Desert Rock IV. "Beyond the 80th Meridian" mostly aids up a groove system on the West side of the spires ,then goes up to the right (South) to the base of the SOUTH TOWER this last pitch of the variation was aided by that party with some of those sliders that fitted into drill holes,here the party linked onto the already established route up the actual SOUTH KACHINA Tower ..(NOTE>This is incorrectly named NORTH TOWER in the Bjorstad guide description section). . The FA of NORTH TOWER (Incorrectly titled THE SOUTH TOWER in the description section of the Bjorstad guide, however the topo is correct)) was climbed later in May by Ross and Ross via the same three original pitches to reach the South Tower.From here the FA party climbed and rapped to the notch between the towers (see guide)Then a 5.9 pitch passed two bolts to the large ledge below the true tower.Here the Ross party climbed the north side of the tower placing about seven bolts and cams to an excellent summit.Descent... Rap the Tower then a short rap to the gap. From here the FA party found the drill holes and rap anchors of the western variation route "Beyond The Meridian". Rap this route 180' to the ground.
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