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Deviance (aka 5.10 roof)
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 47
votes
Routes in Sunshine Roof
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Deviance (aka 5.10 roof) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Double Take (aka. 5.9 Roof) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Last Waltz, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Bentz, Mario Cantu |
| Page Views: | 3,059 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Genericclimberguy on Mar 21, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
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Description
The left route on the light colored wall of Sunshine Roof. The opening moves on the dirty slab suck...but get past it on thin moves and the climbing gets fun quick. Make sure you have long draws or runners for bolts 3 and 4 to minimize drag. Big holds over the roof to pull...route is not as intimidating as it looks from below. On a sunny day, this wall gets hot! I see why its called sunshine roof...Wall faces SW and it's concave, it just traps heat! Great winter wall.
Location
Take main trail from Sex Canyon down towards the river. Continue to spur and stay right as if your going to Dead Cats. Look up and you will see roof to your right.
Protection
5 bolts to anchors. Stick clip is recommended. First bolt is high on ledge, not to mention just high off the ground, possibly 15-20' high off the ground.
Description
The left route on the light colored wall of Sunshine Roof. The opening moves on the dirty slab suck...but get past it on thin moves and the climbing gets fun quick. Make sure you have long draws or runners for bolts 3 and 4 to minimize drag. Big holds over the roof to pull...route is not as intimidating as it looks from below. On a sunny day, this wall gets hot! I see why its called sunshine roof...Wall faces SW and it's concave, it just traps heat! Great winter wall.
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