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Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 9
votes
Routes in Permission Wall
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Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Elwood P. Dowd S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Harvey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Permission Granted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pooka aka Toprope, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rendition on Permission T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Southwest Shoulder T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Wounded Knee S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yes Man S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Jason Haas, Dave Montgomery, Mike Sheridan |
| Page Views: | 1,159 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Holliday on Jun 5, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is a fun route that we thought was harder than it looks. Start by climbing past a bolt and making crux moves into a shallow finger crack. Climb more easily past an overlap and then to a headwall with three bolts. We thought there was another crux between the second and third bolt on the headwall, but your mileage may vary. After the third bolt, climb more easily up to a large ledge on which a belay anchor can be built.
(Note: the route name and first ascentionists were obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)
(Note: the route name and first ascentionists were obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)
Location
This is located towards the left side of the Permission Wall. The start can be found by locating a bolt right below a shallow finger crack.
To descend after topping out, unrope and walk to the left over to a good ledge that overlooks the Tan Corridor. You'll find a rappel anchor; descend down to the trail from there.
To descend after topping out, unrope and walk to the left over to a good ledge that overlooks the Tan Corridor. You'll find a rappel anchor; descend down to the trail from there.
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