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Connecticut Climbing in December

Original Post
Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 136

I'm a (Simsbury) Connecticut native who is currently out west for graduate school. I've taken up trad climbing and was hoping to get on routes with a friend during the holiday season back in CT, but I remember that the Northeast has that whole snow and ice thing. Are there any routes/areas that have generally good conditions even if it is below freezing? Is it worth hauling all my gear with me on my flight home in mid-December?

Thanks for your help

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

I might just bring everything but the rack if I was you

Blissab · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 5

East Peak...Amphitheater!

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 136

MJMobes, Is that just because I cannot trust cams if there are icy conditions? I have a pretty tricam and nut heavy rack (singles in c4s, doubles in common tricam sizes), and my understanding is those generally work better in icy cracks, right?

Blissab · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 5

Hey Ben,

Many of use enjoy climbing in Central Connecticut in November/December and beyond...no bugs, no humidity no crowds, etc.

If you get the right clear sunny winter day, i.e. minimal wind, clear sunny skies and temperatures as low as 30 degrees F...you will climb the routes at the Amphitheater, Fall Wall and the Merimere Face at East Peak in a short sleeve shirt. You will regret not hauling your gear.

Get a copy of the David Fasulo, Rock Climbing Connecticut guidebook for accurate grading, protection ratings and access issues.

Mid-December can be a "crap-shoot" but many times there have been great outdoor climbing potential in Central Connecticut. As a Western Mass climber, November and December are prime for this area when you are aching to extend the outdoor season. Sometimes snow often doesn't arrive until after Christmas.

No ice filled cracks in Mid-December. The winters in New England and specifically Central Connecticut are not as they were many years ago. Often, you can get some good outdoor climbing in every month of the year...you just have to "pick and choose" for the optimal winter conditions.

The Amphitheater routes are generally shielded from wind, due to its shape and the color of all rock is chocolate brown, which faces due south.

There are other south facing exposures in Central Connecticut, which can be explored (near Ragged).

As another note, the Gunks are not that far away from you. This is another cold weather option...totally east facing with some southern exposures.

Good luck,

AB

Erik Rieger · · Maine · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 682

Chatfield Hollow area. Main crag can get cold and wet but usually good. Other backwoods crags receive plentiful sun and are good below freezing.

Oliver McMahon · · Nashua, NH · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 285

Some friends and I, from the NH area, went to Chatfield last December to get away from the ice and snow. We had the crag to ourselves and climbed comfortably all day.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

You could bring your trad rack but you'll probably be doing more TR then anything if you're hanging out at East Peak. I'd just borrow a rack if there's a climb you want to lead. As for winter climbing, bouldering scene is pretty huge when there's no snow. As for warm rope climbing in the winter, stick to the traprock S/W facing cliffs that get above the tree line and it will be 55+ deg on a 25 deg day on the faces in the sun w/ little wind.

East Peak
Main Cliff
West Rock
Fire Wall
Cathole

Chatfield - in the woods and shady

FYI ~ Fasulo is coming out with a new book in a year or so... Most the best climbing is documented on this site and in more detail then the current book.

steverett · · Boston, MA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

Owl's Lair is South facing, too

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Plenty of climbing at all areas mentioned above, obviously varies from year to year but there's a good chance it'll be perfect climbing weather for harder routes....and bouldering will be great obviously.

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

How about good ol' Ragged? Which way does it face? What's the sun/warmth/wind factors at Ragged during the winter? (I can't remember from BITD.) Thanks.

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

Ragged faces W, or even slightly NW. Slow to warm up in the mornings, but sunny afternoons should be nice.

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 136

Sweet! Thanks for all the tips everyone!

Maynard · · Lisbon, ct · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1

We call ragged main cliff the 'ice box, in the winter.

Kevin Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 173

I am sure you now have all the info. you need, but there is plenty to climb here in the state in the sun that will be warm and dry. If you need a partner send me a PM. Warmest walls that I have climbed on so far in the winter include:
1) East Peak most of the walls are perfect in Dec. + Jan.
2) Winter Wall-Short Mt.
3) Owls Lair - Ragged
4) Small Cliff - Ragged
5) Rattlesnake - Rattlesnake Mt.

Hope this helps. Definitely bring your gear. You might even be climbing in a t-shirt!

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Ben or Kevin, if you guys are interested always looking for partners anytime.....Firewall and Whitestone get lots of sun in the afternoons as well.

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 136

To anyone finding this post later, I had a great time at Rattlesnake Mountain in the low 30s (even the shady Porcupine Wall was nice!) Really great trap rock that doesn't transfer heat (or the lack of it) that much.

Kevin and Nick, I'll be sure to message you guys next winter. I was spending most of my climbing in CT this winter teaching some buddies of mine basic leading and trad.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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