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Adirondack Climbing Rack Question

Original Post
El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

What size cams would you suggest if I plan to frequent the Adirondacks and are there any sizes that you would suggest I double up on? Thanks.

Christian Schrader · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 75

depends on the grades... i would say doubles of 1,2,3 c4's; single set of c3's and maybe a yellow alien and blue mastercam. I like to carry doubles of .5 and .75 for routes above 5.10. if its finger cracks you are after, doubles of yellow c3 are nice

El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

This issue is that this is my first rack, so I'm starting from scratch. Thus far, I will definitely be buying X4 cams 0.2 and 0.3, and C4 cams 0.4-3. As for grades, I'm looking at leading 5.10s in next couple of seasons. 5.9 is my absolute max leading grade right now...

Christian Schrader · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 75

sounds like a nice rack. Look into getting a blue mastercam or equivalent and the green and purple c3 at some point, it complements the BD cams nicely. As long as you get out with someone else that can supplement your rack with a couple more hand size pieces (1's, 2's and 3 c4) you can climb just about anything in the dacks minus the obvious OW routes where you will need a #4 and sometimes one or two #5's. Grab a set of stoppers if you haven't yet and you're good to go.

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

A good Adirondack rack is the same as a good rack virtually everywhere else. Get a double set of cams from small to #3, then a larger piece or two. For most, this is a set of Camalots .3 to #3, with doubles in .75, 1, 2, and 3. For smaller cams get whatever you like. Most in NY prefer Aliens as they are ideal in the Gunks. Personally I like aliens from blue to red, with doubles in green and yellow. Add in a few X4s if you like. I prefer the red X4 over the black alien. Get a set of BD stoppers and a set of Peenuts. 12 alpine draws, several locking biners, that kind of thing and you're set to go. If you start pushing the grades add in a set of brassies.

Oh, and avoid the endless people who will tell you to buy Tricams.

PeterW Whitmore · · Dryden, NY · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 50

I find doubles in the finger sizes to be valuable. I like to stitch it up though.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

.5-3 C4s, a set of 00-4 tcus, a set of hexes, a set of nuts and a set of tricams. This got me started leading at the Beer Walls. I added .1-.5 X4s and black-yellow aliens. All this gets me up most of the long multipitches. Doubles of 1,2 and 3 are good for crack climbs.

I use the purple C4 and the #6 nut the most.

I would like to weigh in on the tricam thing. Tricams are great cause they're cheap and when placed correctly are bomber. Tricams are nice to have as extra gear for building anchors. I used to take them on the CPS and Roger's Rock lots.

Jay Harrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 6,307

My ADK SUPPLY:
Full set of BD C4s. Yes, that includes a #4, 5, & 6. You don't need to bring the latter with you often, but should check with the guidebook (Adirondackrock.com) and bring 'em if necessary. It's a good idea to co-own at least the 5 & 6 and use when needed.
BD's C4s just seem to work better here than any other manufacturer.
Doubles of .5 to 2. You can fudge this a bit (maybe start at .7), but 1s and 2s are a very frequent selection. Mixing a different brand is fine - and probably advantageous - for your doubles.
Full set of BD X4s or equivalent. I like these, but there are a lot of Alien aficionados in the area, and Metolius' Mastercams have a loyal following as well.
Full set of BD C3s or equivalent.
Full set of DMM Offset Nuts.
If you frequent Poko or the harder routes at Roger's Rock, include a full set (or double set) of brass micro nuts as well.
Tri Cams, from .125 to 1.0 at least.
Alpine Draws: 8
Double-length runners: 1 or 2
Cordalette
At least one "leaver" binder and runner, if you plan to explore less-frequented cliffs.
70m rope. Double 60m ropes for several cliffs, and ice climbing. DRY ROPES, truly dry ropes, not the faux-dry/sorta dry deceptive marketing crapola types. In my experience, rugged sheath is the most important quality for the Adks. You will burn through ropes frequently otherwise.
60 - 100' Static Line if you set up a lot of TRs.
Finally, if you choose to explore lesser-known cliffs, a wire brush and chock pick/L-tool are essential for the leader. Cracks fill in quickly on the paths less traveled up here.
HELMET. Lotsa headbanger potential here.

El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

Oh shit. Jay Harrison responded to my post. I feel tingly. Thanks so much for the all the development you've done near Crane and elsewhere...

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 136
ClimbingOn wrote:Oh, and avoid the endless people who will tell you to buy Tricams.
scienceguy288, you should probably get some tricams.
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Bill Kirby wrote:I would like to weigh in on the tricam thing. Tricams are great cause they're cheap and when placed correctly are bomber. Tricams are nice to have as extra gear for building anchors. I used to take them on the CPS and Roger's Rock lots.
I agree. I rarely ever do a long pitch without using up my .5-2 tricams, especially the pink and red (that being said, i don't own any cams). plus they are significantly lighter and cheaper than the equivalent cam size.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

I hardly ever do a long pitch with tricams;) though i do carry the pink and red ( booty) I pride myself on doing the climbs listed in the guidbook as " must have tricams" without tricams just to prove the pagan crack pots wrong.. was on a nice scetchy GU FA friday and trying to get something in a nice shallow flare. I actually went for the tricams because it just looked so henious. No love from the red or pink but I did get 2 good lobes of an orange ( usually = pink tricam) metulious 4CU :)

Benjamin Brooke · · San Pedro, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

Jay said it. Have everything! I will second someone's point about finding a partner with a rack as well. Rely on theirs as you build yours. Together you'll have enough to go aid climbing eventually. End up having a double rack from tiny to a #2 or #3 Camalot. a couple racks of nuts small brass regular offset etc. And yup some tricams...useful for me to build anchors (mostly gunks though) thus saving cams. You will probably want some sport style draws to for the occasional bolt or piton. Wise old said it too. Different climbs require different gear. In general I notice climbs in the ten range require smaller gear than 7/8 so you may want to double the medium stuff first before getting into the micro cams and brass nuts. Another point...a place like shelving rock you only need a single rack and draws..head up to poko double rack plus tiny gear....go to that new statebrook crag nice to have big cams. The adk is not one climbing area, but many very different areas. Some areas have specific gear. For me now its more about looking at a climb, whether in the adk or elsewhere and being able to chose accurately what I need to protect it and feel safe. Having all the options is a good thing.

Ps mastercams are the best deal for small cams. On sale for around 45 bucks. You could be saving 100+ over x4s or aliens on a set. Ive used them all and find MCs my favorite.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Since Ben compares Mastercams to other small cams, let me take this opportunity to share my 2 cents on X4s. Yes, this has been addressed elsewhere but I think it's worth pointing out to anyone shopping for cams. The X4s with the black CORD lobe pullers are prone to a significant defect. In many of the cams I've looked at, it is not possible to fully retract the cams. They will retract to 80-90% but no further. The result is that you might not be able to remove them from a slightly snug but otherwise normal placement. I came across a brand new .4 stuck in a crack due to this and have struggled to remove others due to this issue. It was probably the first or second time that .4 was placed, and BAM it's lost. I believe this affects the .4 through .75 sizes; the smaller units have wires that retract the cams and seem not to have this issue. (And they are awesome units in that size)

Chance Philippi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 310

I am a cheap skate and learned to climb with rigid friends and hexes. That being said the only pro you need are nuts. The old metolius three lobe cams are amazing. Tri cams are nice if you are good at placing them I like red pink white black as a replacement for a couple nuts and the giant yellow one feels great in a wide fist. I have always liked aliens and c4s $$ is quality. Buy gear sparsely, two set of nuts 5-9 set of c4.5-3 and 2 orange link cams should get you up anything and be reasonable for Xmas add a set of aliens and you have a heavy alpine rack

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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