Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Main Tier
|
Airlie Gardens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Alternative Man T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Anguish of Captain Bligh T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Artistic Arete S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Balti Porter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Beyond 2000 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
|
|
Boardwalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
BOG Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Borrowed Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Broach, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Buffalo Dime T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Buffalo Nickel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Chromium Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fire in the Hole T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Fire Point T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
First Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Gorpin Engulfin T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Gumfighter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Harpoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Hindu Kush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
KB Capers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Link, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Linn Cove Lullaby T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Nutrasweet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Protectorate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Revival T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Ship of Fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Special Forces T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Special Ops S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Tiny Dancer T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Welcome to Watauga T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Howard, Dan Perry (1982) |
| Page Views: | 8,217 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Jun 21, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
One of the best 5.9 in the entire state. It has great movement, tons of exposure, and bomber gear. Both pitches have unique features that are hard to beat anywhere.
P1 begins next to a tree in a shallow right facing dihedral. Follow this to a short unprotected face. Continue up to the left side of the arete. Be sure to place the crucial piece of gear here before pulling around. Pull around the sharp arete to the right and up. There is an optional piece of gear out right, but can cause a lot of drag if not on double ropes. Continue up the arete to the short slab. Pull the short slab into another dihedral. Plug up the left side of the V-crack for the crux. Move out left, either rest on the ledge or continue up the dihedral pulling the roof. Move left after the short dihedral and belay on a sizable ledge with trad gear.
Option 2, start 20' to the right of said dihedral. Climb up jugs and mail slots with many more gear opportunities. Move up and left onto the slab and into the steep v-slot. This is my preferred method due better protection and reduced rope drag.
P2 moves out right up the ramp and to a crack on the face. Follow the crack to where it is capped by the large roof. At the roof traverse left in the large horizontal until you can step back onto the face (crux). Move up the short face and belay on gear again.
P1 begins next to a tree in a shallow right facing dihedral. Follow this to a short unprotected face. Continue up to the left side of the arete. Be sure to place the crucial piece of gear here before pulling around. Pull around the sharp arete to the right and up. There is an optional piece of gear out right, but can cause a lot of drag if not on double ropes. Continue up the arete to the short slab. Pull the short slab into another dihedral. Plug up the left side of the V-crack for the crux. Move out left, either rest on the ledge or continue up the dihedral pulling the roof. Move left after the short dihedral and belay on a sizable ledge with trad gear.
Option 2, start 20' to the right of said dihedral. Climb up jugs and mail slots with many more gear opportunities. Move up and left onto the slab and into the steep v-slot. This is my preferred method due better protection and reduced rope drag.
P2 moves out right up the ramp and to a crack on the face. Follow the crack to where it is capped by the large roof. At the roof traverse left in the large horizontal until you can step back onto the face (crux). Move up the short face and belay on gear again.
12 Comments