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5.10 Question

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Because I'm bored and still waking up:

From what I can tell:

Most of 5.10's shoes are built around one of 3 lasts:
The anasazi last, the last that the dragon is built around and the stone lands last.
Anasazi's and dragons are both slip lasted and asymmetric.
Anasazi VCS, green and white laces, arrowheads, and quantum's all share a heel design, the velcros, greens and whites are not downturned, the arrowheads are a moderately downturned shoe and the quantum is the most aggressively downturned of the group (though I'm fairly certain they use the dragon last)
dragons and teams are aggressively downturned, as are the blackwings.

I know little about the stone lands, haven't worn the new pink anasazis and haven't worn hi-angles so won't make any statements about those.

Mocs are a hold over, slip lasted and asymmetric with a heel that doesn't show on much else anymore

Galileos are (i think) board lasted to the middle of the forefoot, asymmetric, rad edging shoes.

For sizing, I wear a sz 10/10.5 street shoe (10 in a vans lace up, 43.5 in boulder x's, 41.5/42 in most la sportiva stuff) and typically wear anasazi's in a 9.5 (velcro/lace) and Galileos, dragons, blackwings, arrowheads in a 10, teams in a 10.5, moccs in an 8 for a sport climbing fit, 9.5 for trad type applications.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
frankstoneline wrote:Because I'm bored and still waking up: From what I can tell: Most of 5.10's shoes are built around one of 3 lasts: The anasazi last, the last that the dragon is built around and the stone lands last. Anasazi's and dragons are both slip lasted and asymmetric. Anasazi VCS, green and white laces, arrowheads, and quantum's all share a heel design, the velcros, greens and whites are not downturned, the arrowheads are a moderately downturned shoe and the quantum is the most aggressively downturned of the group (though I'm fairly certain they use the dragon last) dragons and teams are aggressively downturned, as are the blackwings. I know little about the stone lands, haven't worn the new pink anasazis and haven't worn hi-angles so won't make any statements about those. Mocs are a hold over, slip lasted and asymmetric with a heel that doesn't show on much else anymore Galileos are (i think) board lasted to the middle of the forefoot, asymmetric, rad edging shoes. For sizing, I wear a sz 10/10.5 street shoe (10 in a vans lace up, 43.5 in boulder x's, 41.5/42 in most la sportiva stuff) and typically wear anasazi's in a 9.5 (velcro/lace) and Galileos, dragons, blackwings, arrowheads in a 10, teams in a 10.5, moccs in an 8 for a sport climbing fit, 9.5 for trad type applications.
Now that's what I'm talking about - Thanks!!!
Mannamedstan Smith · · Carpinteria, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

I have personally worn very few of their climbing shoes. My feet are narrow and Sportivas have always been my choice.

That being said my Camp4s are my favorite shoe, and I have stopped into their warehouse for sales etc. and they are super cool. I would for sure call them or email with any questions. Even better buy a pair of shoes that is your fit in the shop (our local gear shops seem to be more knowledgable with first hand experience than the REIs in town) and then climb them. If they don't work out sell them on the forum.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

Sadly, the galileo's are being discontinued.

I can speak the 5.10 shoes i've used/tried or my partners have:

The anasazi VCS is has a flat sole, asymetric shape, and a decent heel, but i find them to be a little baggy back there. They are in the middle in terms of stiffness. IMO, they are a good do-everything shoe.

The Mocassym is an anasazi toebox, much less stiff (good for smearing/jamming) , with a different heel, and unlined leather so they stretch and dye your feet red.

The galileo is/was an stiffer anasazi with less heel tension - Good edging and support while not too tight.

The stonelands are a flat sole, moderately asymetric - They are a blunter less pointy shape, so they don't focus as well on the outside edge. I beleive each version (slipper, velcro, lace) has slightly different stiffness. I find the heel on all those shoes to be markedly better than any other shoe they make. It fits close with very little open space. Not has high performance as the anasazi line.

I wear an 11.5 shoe normally, and take an 11.5 in the anasazi and stonelands, and a 12 in the galileo.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Larry S wrote:Sadly, the galileo's are being discontinued. I can speak the 5.10 shoes i've used/tried or my partners have: The anasazi VCS is has a flat sole, asymetric shape, and a decent heel, but i find them to be a little baggy back there. They are in the middle in terms of stiffness. IMO, they are a good do-everything shoe. The Mocassym is an anasazi toebox, much less stiff (good for smearing/jamming) , with a different heel, and unlined leather so they stretch and dye your feet red. The galileo is/was an stiffer anasazi with less heel tension - Good edging and support while not too tight. The stonelands are a flat sole, moderately asymetric - They are a blunter less pointy shape, so they don't focus as well on the outside edge. I beleive each version (slipper, velcro, lace) has slightly different stiffness. I find the heel on all those shoes to be markedly better than any other shoe they make. It fits close with very little open space. Not has high performance as the anasazi line. I wear an 11.5 shoe normally, and take an 11.5 in the anasazi and stonelands, and a 12 in the galileo.
Larry Thank You - when you fit them with the same as street shoe size - what kind of fit does that give you? Super tight - all day - or in between?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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