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Rumney best cold weather crags

Original Post
Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

Hey guys, I was at Rumney last weekend and left some things undone :) I will be coming back on Nov. 14th-16th. It looks like sun and 40s with a touch of Saturday rain, so not too bad. I am looking for crags that will have the best temps/sunlight. right now I'm thinking Waimea, Main Cliff, and Armed and Dangerous. Am I on the right track and what else should we hit?

Thanks!

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Those, and Prudential can be good too if the leaves are down and the sun is out.

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

Thanks Mark!

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Waimea is exactly where you want to be in the winter. Sometimes Darth Vader is good too.

Enjoy!

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

How about the Hammond Organ/Lonesome Dove wall on Jimmy Cliff? Or around Salley's Alley on the New Wave? Or the Full Effect wall on Triple Corners? Am I right in assuming that those crags might be warmer and drier than others during the winter? (Thanks for any winter beta, Rumneyites!)

Rob DeBruyn · · Burlington, VT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 55

New Wave gets a good amount of sun in the winter, but it's breezier than some of the others mentioned. This can make it awfully cold on the wrong day, even with the sun out.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Not 100% sure but I think Jimmy, being higher up on Rattlesnake, can be windy. I think the right side of Parking Lot Wall should be OK on a cold but sunny morning.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

A lot depends on the wind. New Wave can be nice if there is sun and no wind. The Iron Man wall of the Main cliff and parts of Prudential tend to usually be sheltered. When the sun is beaming into the Main Cliff (early and midday) it can be toasty sometimes even in February. As you head around west from the Venus wall towards Bonsai you will often start to get hit by the wind. Waimea depends on the day. Can be great. Can be windy. Be aware that Waimea (the route) is in a little sun bowl, but dangerous ice often develops above it and along towards Silver Surfer. Avoid it then and take care using the trail below.

Triple Corners also develops ice above. Orange Crush develops very bad ice. Best to avoid most of it once that happens. There is one spot known as the ice machine, next to Bullwinkle, where the ice from above Captain Hook crashes down and exits between the boulders like the machine in your freezer.

Speaking of ice. People should be aware that ice forms up high above the Toad routes on the right side of the Main cliff and then cuts loose as the sun hits it. I see people dawdling there way up the hill there oblivious to what is above them. It is better to approach the cliff from the stairs to Armed and Dangerous (easier going anyway), or at least know what you are passing under if you still choose to use the path directly up to the right side. One person should watch while the other quickly hikes up. Big stuff flies down there that will take you out if you are in the way.

Nick Grant · · Tamworth, NH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 424

Thanks Mark — much appreciated.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Geographic Factor is pretty cool when it's in and Selson Blue is a good warm up on the way out there;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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