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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Lower Merced Ri…
> Aj. Cookie Area
> Cookie Cliff
The Stigma
A3
Avg: 3.2 from 9
votes
Routes in The Cookie Cliff
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Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Banana Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chips Ahoy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coffin Nail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cookie Cutter S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+ |
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Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Girls Just Want To Have Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orangutan Arch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Stigma, The T A3 |
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Tennessee Wall (P1: Tennessee Strings) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Void Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dennis Miller and Brian Birmingham 1970 |
| Page Views: | 3,599 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Jun 16, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
a three pitch aid route. Only the first pitch goes free. The second pitch, rated A3, is only ~50-75 feet and has many fixed copper heads to two bolt anchor(good hardware). Not sure about pitch three.
Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
Location
This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.
Protection
Since I am sure this route sees many more ascents on aid than free some beta on that version is probably in order. If you don't clip the bolts the line is probably C2+, although offset cams might drop the grade a bit. The largest piece I used was a #1C4 and I relied heavily on cam hooks and offset brassies. No skyhooks were necessary. As of October 2014 there were a disturbing number of yellow-jackets crawling around in the pin scars just above the anchor. Not sure what was up with that but they didn't bother me much, granted I sort of threw the rope through the steel biners and got out of there as fast as possible.
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