Alpine Aid in AT Ski Boots?

I have a winter alpine objective that involves an approach, which will be way easier with my AT setup, crossing talus in deep snow, a technical traverse in deep snow, a 200' aid section (which I will second), more skinning, a single rappel, and ski down.

I have a pair of tecnica Cochise AT ski boots and crampons that snap on nicely. Also have a pair of sturdy leather boots and crampons for those as well. I don't want to change boots constantly - if I have to do that I will just snowshoe, but the skiing part would be awesome.

Any experience on technical terrain in ski boots? Anybody ever aid climbed in ski boots? Leave crampons on, or take them off during aid?

Any help, advice, etc. would be extremely helpful.

Gunks Jesse wrote:I have a winter alpine objective that involves an approach, which will be way easier with my AT setup, crossing talus in deep snow, a technical traverse in deep snow, a 200' aid section (which I will second), more skinning, a single rappel, and ski down. I have a pair of tecnica Cochise AT ski boots and crampons that snap on nicely. Also have a pair of sturdy leather boots and crampons for those as well. I don't want to change boots constantly - if I have to do that I will just snowshoe, but the skiing part would be awesome. Any experience on technical terrain in ski boots? Anybody ever aid climbed in ski boots? Leave crampons on, or take them off during aid? Any help, advice, etc. would be extremely helpful.

Are you jugging that section or you expect to free some moves and aid some? Boots and crampons won't make that much of a different when it comes to plain old jugging. Also, it might be helpful if you post what the objective is. I'm sure people would give you better ideas.

You want to leave yer crampons on cause if there is any ice or snow along the way it will make it easier especially at the beginning or end of the aid section.

If you are seconding the aid section, I assume you are going to jug it. I would say make some stirrups that go around your boots and crampons. Make the loops adjustable so they snug up once on. The boots are stiff enough that snugging the loops will not be an issue (Something I would not do for climbing shoes).

The above is my SOP for jugging out of a crevasse which is similar.

Figure out where the aiders are going to be on the crampons, and wrap that part of the frame with some tape to reduce abrasion/cutting.

I don't remember which part of the trail is skiable, but if you can make it work, go for it. If your leader is free climbing the pitch, so should you, at least french free as much as you can. Don't worry too much about aiders with crampons. They last forever!

I've never jugged with skies, but did enough jugging on big walls. If you are jugging anything closed to 200 feet, bring real aiders and ascenders.

Ski edges can be sharp, and tangling them with your rope might be a pain with A frame carry with potential cutting it. So be careful with your skis.

Charlie Fowler used to ice climb in his AT boots and crampons. There's a video of him doing it around Lake Louise. He'd solo WI4 100s of feet in them, although with Charlie, he could probably climb ice in his slippers.