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Possibly moving to Phoenix/Scottsdale

Original Post
Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

Hey Guys, I'm possibly moving to Phoenix or Scottsdale in the next 6 months for work. I'm currently a midwest climber who frequents Devil's Lake, so I am used to having 1000's of really well documented routes at my finger tips. I looked through what some of the crag options are in the Phoenix area. There looks to at least be some trad climbing, with Pinacle peak probably offering the best.

I'm mostly interested in Trad climbing. Right now I drive 3 hours to my home crag. I'm curious, if I were living in Scottsdale or that area are there decent crags I can get in a trad line or two after work? How far away and where can I head for good weekend trad climbing? I'm not apposed to sport climbing, and I'd also like to dive more into alpinism. Just curious what my options are.

Also if anyone knows how far I'd be from some quality skiing and snowboarding that would be great too.

Thanks!

Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625

You're pretty limited with after work crags. Pinacle Peak and the McDowell Mountains are options.

But for weekend crags, here's a few to get you started:
Paradise Forks and Volunteer Canyon
The Waterfall
East Clear Creek
West Clear Creek
Cochise

Quality skiing and snowboarding; most will argue that AZ has none and you'll need to travel out of state for that. However, we do have Snowbowl near Flagstaff and Sunrise in the White Mountains East of Show Low.

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
Red wrote:You're pretty limited with after work crags. Pinacle Peak and the McDowell Mountains are options. But for weekend crags, here's a few to get you started: Paradise Forks and Volunteer Canyon The Waterfall East Clear Creek West Clear Creek Cochise
Thanks for the info. Right now I don't have any after work crags, so it's not a deal breaker. Just hoping that in moving to AZ I can do a lot MORE climbing than I do now. Can a Trad climber find happiness in this area? What about getting outside the area? How far am I from some really choice destinations?
Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625

Phoenix is only a few hours from all the areas I linked above. All of those areas have some pretty choice climbing. 4.5 hours to Joshua Tree. About 5 - 5.5 hours to Red Rocks. A little over 6 hours to Indian Creek.

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Have you been to Phoenix before? It is HOT like 2/3 of the year.

The climbing closest to Phoenix is very mediocre, the further you get away from Phoenix the better the climbing and weather.

Red · · Tacoma, Toyota · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 1,625
Chris Schmidt wrote:Have you been to Phoenix before? It is HOT like 2/3 of the year.
Quite the opposite. It's hot like 1/3 of the year and fucking awesome 2/3 of the year. Pretty tough to beat our winters. Statewide we get about 350+ climbable days a year.
Kevin D · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 160

Within a 2 hour drive from phoenix your options are endless and year round. Isolation, granite mountain, the overlook, sedona, granite dells, the waterfall, etc. For after work trad you are limited to old-school sandbagged granite at pinnacle peak, McDowells and little granite. These are also fun and will keep you challenged. Plus it's rare to get rained out.

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

This is all good stuff to hear guys. I've been to Phoenix in the middle of summer. Traveled out there a bunch for work. Even if the after work climbing isn't good, the fact that it's even an option to go play makes me happy. I don't have that at all right now except the gym.

Also really liking all the great destinations within 6 hours.

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

Anyone who says climbing in AZ sucks has most likely not lived in the Midwest. Phoenix is hot in the summer, no shit... But, Sedona, flagstaff and Tucson (Mt Lemmon) are all two hours or less distance, depending on traffic. Yes, Phoenix traffic sucks and can push your climbing trip back by a few routes. Climbing magazine named Tucson the best city for climbing in the US ( climbing.com/route/climberv…), which is a short trip down the 10. There is plentiful, year round climbing, and several good gyms in Phoenix. I do miss snowboarding at Snowbowl too. On a clear day, you can run down the bowls with views of the Grand Canyon in the distance. It can get icey, but Western icey, normal to great for the East coast. Be stoked.

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

I'm glad I started this thread. You guys are making a difficult decision much easier.

Kevin D · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 160

There is no after work climbing June-Sept. Too hot

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
KevinD wrote:There is no after work climbing June-Sept. Too hot
That's ok. Right now I have NO after work climbing, and my climbing season is cut short by nasty rain and cold and winter...and I don't ice climb. Not like if I did that would be any good in the MW anyway.
Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

If you are fanatical you can keep busy morning and evening on summer days. Just find shade and make it quick. Otherwise drive up in elevation. Mt. Lemmon, Flagstaff or other cooler crags aren't far.

Winters will find you surrounded by Mid Western expatriates for good reasons.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

If you are fanatical you can keep busy morning and evening on summer days. Just find shade and make it quick. Otherwise drive up in elevation. Mt. Lemmon, Flagstaff or other cooler crags aren't far.

Winters will find you surrounded by Mid Western expatriates for good reasons.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

I made the same move a few years ago. No worries, its a good one, higher elevation is close by and its a dry heat. Night climbing is awesome.

Jacob Jones · · oklazona · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

I too made the move 4 years ago. It is good here. Tons of quality within 3 hours. Sunrise is underappreciated skiing imo, esp if they get snow. There are better places to live, climb, and ski out west, but Phoenix is better than almost any where in the flyover states or out east.

Peter Yakovchuk · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 0

I moved to Phoenix from Boulder, Colorado 1.5 years ago. In my opinion, climbing in AZ is more varied and possibly better than near Boulder (I know that sounds ridiculous and bla bla... whatever). I always travel 1.5-3hrs on weekends and I think climbing is more remote, adventurous, varied than in the Front Range. You can climb here year round (Winslow Wall in the middle of the summer), Homestead (world class limestone sport climbing) in January. Waterfall is a world class trad climbing area 2hrs away from the Valley. And shit ton of everything else. Send me a message when you get here, I will show you some places :)
It is hot here in the summer, for sure. Chances are you won't be tiling roofs here in July. And, it is really hot for only about a month total. For 2 more months, it is quite OK, and for another 9 months it is absolutely fucking amazing. A little warmer, a little colder... who cares. Just m ake sure to bring some warm down sleeping bag for Cochise in December and you will most probably not regret your move to AZ :)

Peter Yakovchuk · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 0

The only bad thing about Phoenix climbing scene is the absence of a good modern climbing gym here. Not sure why.

RyanJames · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 505

Au contraire, Peter. A LEGIT gym is Focus. Also, AZR is pretty good too. Climax has amazing features but the management is lacking.

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

Climbmax has a sweet bouldering cave, but you're
liable to break your leg on the super uneven flooring. If you can stay off the ground the whole time, you'll have a great gym sesh.

Peter Yakovchuk · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 0

Focus is a bouldering gym.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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