Indian Creek anchors

Wow, thanks for the input everyone, all will be added to "the list" ...Sam Fuerborn did fix some routes up at Cliff's of Insanity this weekend. Definitely MC's Hammer and I think a couple of other ones.

Anyways, would love to keep this thread positive...after all I think the ASCA is one of the best examples of positive community activism within the climbing world in the U.S.

American Safe Climbing Association
safeclimbing.org/

peace,
Luke

Luke, do you have a paypal where people can toss a few bills your way to help with this project? Chains, bolts and gas add up quick, and you're doing a great service for the climbing community out here. I'd rather directly help you out than indirectly fund a non profit CEOs six figure salary.
(I'm not referencing any climbing related charities, no butthurt please)

Also, Luke has a book out called Climbing Out of Bed, which I'm sure at least a portion of the purchase would go towards these creek trips. Thanks for all the sweat equity Luke and cohorts!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0615750346/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414495329&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Steven Groetken wrote:Luke, do you have a paypal where people can toss a few bills your way to help with this project? Chains, bolts and gas add up quick, and you're doing a great service for the climbing community out here. I'd rather directly help you out than indirectly fund a non profit CEOs six figure salary. (I'm not referencing any climbing related charities, no butthurt please) Also, Luke has a book out called Climbing Out of Bed, which I'm sure at least a portion of the purchase would go towards these creek trips. Thanks for all the sweat equity Luke and cohorts! amazon.com/gp/aw/d/06157503…

Agreed - I'd throw a few $ at this - let me know.

Also his book is a fun fast read...

One of the bolts for the anchor of 9 Lives on Cat Wall was a bit bent out of the rock - it was a metolius rap hanger if I recall correctly. Thanks for all the help! I'd be happy to make a PayPal donation as well!

Speaking of 5.9s, my climbing partner reminded me of Hot Sex on Sinbad Wall. There's only tatty webbing hanging off the anchors. Chains would be nice. Thanks!

Cockometer, far left @ Way Rambo, has some webbing equalizing the 2 non-level bolts, showing some wear at the hangers. Some chain/rings would help, thought the bolts looked OK. Thanks!!

Thanks and thanks.

To be honest, I'd say a donation to the ASCA would be better than giving us money directly. We get everything from the ASCA except chains.

I'm sure Greg Barnes could chime in on exact figures, but I'd be willing to bet that nearly everything donated to the ASCA goes right over to buying new hardware to replace dangerous anchors.

For Durango climbers; we are planning a fundraiser for the ASCA and new Golf Wall hardware in December at Carver's. Will post details as they come up.

And, keep the Creek anchor info. coming!!!

peace.

Luke Mehall wrote:Thanks and thanks. To be honest, I'd say a donation to the ASCA would be better than giving us money directly. We get everything from the ASCA except chains. I'm sure Greg Barnes could chime in on exact figures, but I'd be willing to bet that nearly everything donated to the ASCA goes right over to buying new hardware to replace dangerous anchors. For Durango climbers; we are planning a fundraiser for the ASCA and new Golf Wall hardware in December at Carver's. Will post details as they come up. And, keep the Creek anchor info. coming!!! peace.

I dig it, count me in. I'll check the forum and the asca site
for the date. Thanks again for all you do.

Thanks for the work and organizing Luke.

I know Go Sparky Go needs chain. I'll be out at the Creek this weekend, but don't know if I'll make it to Sparks. I'm usually packing some chain though so I'll do it if I make it up there I'll take care of it.

Luke Mehall wrote: I'm sure Greg Barnes could chime in on exact figures, but I'd be willing to bet that nearly everything donated to the ASCA goes right over to buying new hardware to replace dangerous anchors. For Durango climbers; we are planning a fundraiser for the ASCA and new Golf Wall hardware in December at Carver's. Will post details as they come up. And, keep the Creek anchor info. coming!!! peace.

Thanks Luke. Here's the nitty gritty on ASCA spending for last year (2013):

82% hardware (this includes bolts, hangers, rap hangers, drill bits, quicklinks, rap rings, epoxy for glue-ins, patching epoxy, etc, and shipping to us which is often not differentiated in the bulk pricing)

3% shipping expenses (sending hardware to rebolters)

12% my exorbitant salary of $10,962. Zero benefits of any sort. We have no other employees or paid financial advisors or consultants or anything, just volunteers (and any replacement that I do myself is not paid but volunteer).

2% taxes

1% other (website, office supplies, etc)

Note that the following are all zero - not just 0% rounded down from something, but zero dollars:
- rent
- marketing
- benefits
- travel expenses
- etc

We easily save WAY more than 18% in doing bulk orders. We aren't allowed to say what we pay, but trust me that the ASCA overhead is minor compared to the savings. We never spend cash so everything is check or card and very well documented.

We don't stock chain for 3 reasons: 1) we don't get a particularly good price on it compared to just buying locally, 2) it's bulky, heavy, and a pain to ship, and 3) I hate killing my elbows trying to cut the dang stuff. If Luke buys chain locally in Moab or Durango, he can send me a copy of the receipt, and I can send him a check.

Plus that, the ASCA is a 501(c)3 so folks can get a tax deduction (assuming you make enough $$ that tax deductions make any difference!).

Also since we are a 501(c)3, all of the above financial data is publicly available.

Greg.... you rock!!!

I climb a lot in obscure places and its really nice to have a nice new 3/8 with ASCA stamped on it.... to clip.

Thank you for what you do.

maybe a NOBEL PRIZE someday?

Ha ha, good one!

Yes, of course, there's nothing more important to world peace than…rock climbing!

I'm not sure if this is still being followed, but here goes:

'Mad Cows' on 2nd Meat Wall is a good candidate for anchor replacement. Currently it is a drilled piton backed up with a nut in soft rock. This is a fun, moderate climb and many more should be able to climb it safely. I will replace it in the spring if somebody does not beat me to it (please do; I've never taken on this sort of task before, but will).

Thanks IC heroes! I appreciate the work you do.

mountainproject.com/v/mad-c…

Thanks Nik! Will add that one to the list!

A few folks have been working on replacing anchors, and I'll spread the word. Thanks for reviving this thread, it would be sweet to get all the anchors in the creek to be bomber bolts! it certainly deserves it. And if you'd like to learn how to properly drill a bolt, give me an email, and we'll make that happen. lukemehall@gmail.com

While you're at it, add Gourge on It at 2nd Meat to the list. Anchor is currently a Bandito hanger and a drilled pin. We replaced the tat with new cord in September.

There is an unamed 5.11- just left of Marshmallow Safari at 4x4 wall that could use some attention. Fun route, but I would imagine there are other more popular routes that could use the attention first. That being said, the anchor consists of a drilled pin and what I think was some form of an old quarter inch bolt and a leeper hanger. Can't remember exactly, I just recall not being particularly enthused about it when I saw it.

mountainproject.com/v/unkno…