12cm vs. 18cm quickdraw

I recently ordered my first 6 BD quickdraws. Meaning to buy 12cm shorter draws I accidentally ordered 18cm... I have only climbed on 12cm draws. Is this going to be a problem sport climbing or should I not worry at all? Thanks! Also Why Are shorter draws preferred on sport climbs anyways?

It's only a 6cm difference. Your girlfriend might notice, but you won't.

Winner! Winner! Chicken Dinner!

Nathanael Nelms wrote:I recently ordered my first 6 BD quickdraws. Meaning to buy 12cm shorter draws I accidentally ordered 18cm... I have only climbed on 12cm draws. Is this going to be a problem sport climbing or should I not worry at all? Thanks! Also Why Are shorter draws preferred on sport climbs anyways?

sometime the inches do matter

especially on early bolts or above a ledge ... a few inches can mean the difference between crapping your pants and a broken ankle



A longer quickdraw increases a fall by double the difference in length.


mountaineeringmethodology.c…

when yr higher up longer draws work just fine and reduce drag

i would pick up 2 shorter draws for the early bolts/pieces

;)

6cm!!? BRO, yer gonna die

bearbreeder wrote:A longer quickdraw increases a fall by double the difference in length.

Sure, relative to the bolt if you fall above the piece that you're clipped in to, but if the longer draw allowed you to clip a draw that you couldn't otherwise reach then the fall potential may be drastically reduced by using the longer draw. I'd bet that most sport climbers have used a longer draw at some point in order to reach the clip.

The distance from the bottom to the top of the climb never changes, but the location and/or length of draws can change the fall distance from any single point during the climb.

Though now I'm wondering...if you calculated the integral of fall distances throughout the climb for different draw placements, would it be constant? I've had enough beer to ask the question, but not answer it. Though I think the answer involves more beer.

It's nice to have both some long and some short draws. In addition to managing rope drag, different length draws can be used to better position the lower 'biner relative to the rock.

For example, corners, edges, and bulges/lumps are bad things for a carabiner to hang against. So you pick a different length 'draw so that the carabiner hangs against flat rock or in free space.

Ian Stewart wrote: Sure, relative to the bolt if you fall above the piece that you're clipped in to, but if the longer draw allowed you to clip a draw that you couldn't otherwise reach then the fall potential may be drastically reduced by using the longer draw. I'd bet that most sport climbers have used a longer draw at some point in order to reach the clip. The distance from the bottom to the top of the climb never changes, but the location and/or length of draws can change the fall distance from any single point during the climb. Though now I'm wondering...if you calculated the integral of fall distances throughout the climb for different draw placements, would it be constant? I've had enough beer to ask the question, but not answer it. Though I think the answer involves more beer.

The shorter draw only matters right off the deck or belay ledge

After that rope stretch and path will matter much more than a 5-7" difference in fall length of the draw itself

In fact one way to reduce the fall length on ledgy climbs or with light belayers is to ADD drag through shorter draws/slings or through a less straight path ... This assumes bomber multidirectional pieces (bolts) of course, and you pay the price in drag and in impact force on the climber (no dynamic belays !!!)

For a long draw that you can clip high on lead, youll need a stiffy ... You can make your own

Of course because if the stiffness its advisable to put a second opposed draw once you can reach it normally

They are also great for those bolt ladders (grand wall in squamish) if ur a short stumpy AZN



;)

Take care with that "stiffy". Petzl specifically warns against clipping the bolt with the rubber end. As best I understand the diagram, that same stiffness that makes it more clipable makes it easier for the draw to unclip itself from the bolt.

To demo to yourself, clip stiffy to a bolt. Put your finger in the rope end and loosely spin the draw like a watch hand in the same direction as the gate.

Edit: I missed your comment about putting a second opposed draw on, I see you are aware of the issue. I'll leave this here for those who aren't.