Please spew some beta (pic included)

20 kN wrote: What, you mean you cant figure out how to send a route just by looking at it??

For most of the routes I tick off, I mentally piece together all the moves, then watch someone else climb it. If they climb it with the same beta I had in mind and send, I consider that an onsight for myself. If they used different beta that doesn't look too hard for my abilities, that probably means redpoint for myself. It is amazing how many routes you can do in a day this way. I'm pretty sure that's how most climbers rack up such an impressive tick list, or at least that's how I do it.

Now if they didn't use the beta I had in mind (on a route I've never been on) and fall, standard climbing etiquette allows me to shout up and tell them what they are doing wrong. BUT, I have to be there to see it. That's the rules - you should know this!

MattL wrote: ... Now if they didn't use the beta I had in mind (on a route I've never been on) and fall, standard climbing etiquette allows me to shout up and tell them what they are doing wrong. BUT, I have to be there to see it. That's the rules - you should know this!

Haha, do you shout up before or after you take your shirt off?

Adam Burch wrote: Haha, do you shout up before or after you take your shirt off?

Proper form would be no shirt and pbr in hand. If you could be ignoring a dog at the same time, that would be ideal

Adam Burch wrote: Haha, do you shout up before or after you take your shirt off?

If that is a legitimate question, then maybe you should reconsider your choice of lifestyle. Climbing requires copious amounts of testosterone and chauvinism. That's just the nature of the beast. You should have ARRIVED to the crag with your shirt off.

Have you tried cup-stacking, Solitaire, or pinterest as a past-time endeavor? Might be worth looking into - just a thought.

Robots and Dinosaurs wrote: Proper form would be no shirt and pbr in hand. If you could be ignoring a dog at the same time, that would be ideal

I always ignore dogs.

Every time.

MattL wrote: If that is a legitimate question, then maybe you should reconsider your choice of lifestyle. Climbing requires copious amounts of testosterone and chauvinism. That's just the nature of the beast. You should have ARRIVED to the crag with your shirt off. Have you tried cup-stacking, Solitaire, or pinterest as a past-time endeavor? Might be worth looking into - just a thought.

Brosephine, I know this! When I'm all up in the mountains, down jacket on, you think I have anything under it?

That being said, cup-stacking looks legit - no lie.

I know people who climb with a pbr in their chalk bag and have taken it out one handed on a slight overhang drank it and finished the route cleanly.

This thread is making me laugh so hard I'm crying and my tears are running off my shirtless chest into my pbr.

Nick-R wrote:This thread is making me laugh so hard I'm crying and my tears are running off my shirtless chest into my pbr.

Been there, every time I put on my sport climbing shoes I tear up a little bit because they hurt so bad. It is totally worth it though because I nearly sent my 5.10a (for people between 5'9-5'10) last week.

It's easier to spew beta while ignoring the dog if your shirtless and pantless, plus people will take you more seriously.

As requested I'm posting back to say I got the send! I put my left foot on A, left hand C, right hand D, right foot smearing. Before I was smearing higher up and a bit more to the right to use the best lump. The climber in the video seemed to smear lower down so I tried it, and I managed to get my left foot up into B without issue. Then I moved my weight onto that foot some and locked off a bit and bumped the right up from D to F not static but a relatively small move. Then it was relatively straightforward to the top. Great climb! Thanks for helping me work it out.

P.S. Part of the difference may have been that I was having an off day before. That day I also failed to onsight a 9-, but today I was crushing multiple routes near my limit.