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Chile and Argentina, October-December 2014

Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

I just got to Bariloche today. Any one around to climb or will be soon??

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Hey Jordan, I'm hoping to take some time to climb here in Pucon before heading down your way. Can you share some info on route conditions up at Frey once you get a chance to ask around? I'm just about 150 km north of you and snowline here is still down around 1400m for shady aspects. I'm wondering if it might still be a while before things get good around Frey.

Let me know if you have any trouble finding a partner -- I can email you contact info for a friend of a friend who lives there.

Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60
Bold TextNo worries, Ill try to get someone out with me soon. But either way ill be trekking and exploring the area so ill be sure to update the snow conditions.
Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

Bariloche conditions update:
Weather is pleasant enough to climb in. A little wet, and in the fifties recently so I've only been at the local crags. We have a clear window coming so I'll be in the Frey for 4-7 days. I'll be sure to post again with snow conditions in the Frey.

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Sweet -- I'm planning on going up to climb at Las Peinetas during the same time frame. Hope you have a great time. Looking forward to reading your comments on Frey.

cesky12 Bauer · · Edwards, Colorado · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 30

Hey Mike,

I'm headed to Santiago tomorrow, and will be in Chile until Nov 14. I'm planing to head to Cochamo to check out there area and hike and climb as much as can be climbed right now. I'm down to hit up any other places in Chile/Argentina too. If it works out I'll be back for 2 weeks starting December 1. I'm bringing a double rack with me so I'd just need a rope, let me know if you'd be down to explore.

Bjorn

Holger Wolff · · Santiago, Chile · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Hi Mike,
I will probably be in Pucon for the weekend. Would be good to meet you, please let me know were and when.
Good luck in Las Peinetas (certainly adventure, I do not know if there is any established route),
Holger

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Hi Holger,

That sounds good to me. I'm staying at the Hostería École, on the corner of Urrutia and Arauco. I've been chatting with Claudio from Summit Chile, who has developed a lot of the routes at both Peinetas and Cerduo, so hopefully he can give us some good info. Maybe we can hook up with Pepe and Claudio and carpool up to Peinetas if you are interested to go up and check it out. Let me know when you can confirm that you'll be coming, and what days you'll be available to climb. I'll keep those days available on my calendar.

Cheers,

Mike

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Hi Bjorn,

You should check in with Gabe (who is also on this forum topic) -- he went to Cochamo last weekend. My understanding is that it's still pretty wintry and wet there, but hopefully he can give you more details. If you're open to adjusting your plan, Pucon is a lot easier to get to than Cochamo and it's warmer and dryer here. There's good cragging at Cerduo (sport and trad on granite, mostly 1-pitch, just 15 km from town). There's also supposed to be some really good granite multipitch trad up at Las Peinetas, about 70 km from here just before the Argentina border. I'm hoping to go climb there this week and can give you more details in a few days if you want.

If you want to try and hook up here in Pucon, please leave a message here or by email at zarmot@yahoo. I've got a pretty full rack (double cams up to a BD #3) but only a single 60m rope. Do you have a tag/rap rope you can bring with you and maybe a bigger piece or two?

Cheers,

Mike

Lizzy VanPatten · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

I am currently in Guatemala and currently having climbing withdraws. Heading down to Chile and/or Argentina in early December and want to climb, but don't know much about climbing in the area. Any recommendations on reading materials. I have a really open scheudle and will be around from December-March if anyone wants to meet up annd climb!
This forum is a bit confusing for me, but if you want to email that would be awesome, lizzyvanpattten@yahoo.com. Or find me on faceboook, just search Lizzy VanPatten

John Lombardi · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 995

Holger and others,

I'll be in Cochamo around Dec 18th-Dec26th give or take a couple of days. I'm bringing a light rack, shoes, and a harness with me. If you'll be there around similar time frame let me know! I'd love to get on some long moderates in Cochamo!

John

Holger Wolff · · Santiago, Chile · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Hi John,
unfortunately mid-end od december impossible for me, the only option is 7 to 14 of december and I prefer to go to Frey. This preference is actually because in Cochamo there are little moderate routes (and if, they are not really worthwhile) and due to grade, long aproaches (consider bivouac in route entry), long pitches (you really need 60m doubles, 50m don't serve) and long routes I found it a quite severe spot. To enjoy it you should climb like 5.11a upwards in trad (altough some easier routes exist or you climb easy first pitches without completing the route). Cochamo is definitely worthwile to go but regards climbing expectations one should be very modest.
However, 5.11 is moderate for many people, dificulty is relative...
Holger

Jordan Moore · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 60

The Frey is in! And it is so fucking fun!
There is still a fair amount of snow up high towards the upper pillars but is melting fast. Many of the lower towers are easily accessible.

David Bain · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5

I will be in Patagonia November 29th-December 31st and I also looking for a climbing partner in El Chaltén, Cochamo, or the Frey. I will have a single rack and a 70m rope and am up for pretty much anything. If anyone is looking for a partner at any of these places let me know!

-David

Gabriel Kiritz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 235

To those on here I haven't connected with (Holger, Jordan, db2882, John L, Lizzy, Becca), I'd also like to climb in both Frey & Cochamo during mid-December. I'm looking to get on one of the longer moderates as well - however my trad moderate is in the 5.8 range (at least if I'm leading). So by that I mean Antes de la Lluvia or En la Senda de los Gigantes. Write me at gkiritz@ucla.edu or I'll get in touch with you as December approaches. I hope to get to Frey before then, but my work schedule may not allow it (working on Chiloe where there be not a rock in sight sadly, other than the cordillera on a clear day). El Chalten area as well would be great (not sure I have the alpine experience to get on the bigger stuff there, though I'd like to explore).

Also planning on doing a longer (7-10 day) remote trek, probably in the Glaciares area, if anyone is interested. Probably go solo, but a friend could be welcome, so let me know if you're interested.

Have one 70 m rope, full rack.

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Thanks for the good news, Jordan. I should be arriving in Bariloche in about a week. Will contact you when I know the details.

David, hit me up when you get to Bariloche if you are looking for a partner. Cheers!

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Gabe, I'm also up for the idea of a longer trek around Glaciares and El Chaltén, but I would need to do it around late Dec. Does that work with your schedule?

AlexGo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Hi all,

A friend of mine and I are in the process of finalizing a trekking tour (guided) from El Chalten from December 25th to 29th 2014.
The plan is to go up Gorra Blanca and Paso Marconi.
If anyone is interested, there is still room for 2 more (max 4 persons per guide), cost is $1231 per person for two, they said it will be cheaper if we are three or four...

Also, after we return we were thinking about hanging around El Chalten for a day or two to do some climbs, but we both don't have any trad. Any good sports climbs around the town?

Alex

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Here's an important heads-up for USA folks coming to Argentina if you don't already have a visa. I just learned that -- unlike Chile and Bolivia -- you can't just show up at the airport/border and buy a visa. You need to pay your stinking $160 "reciprocity fee" online in advance and bring the receipt with you to get your passport stamped. Si no tiene factura, no puede entrar al país.

In theory, you can log in and pay for this at migraciones.gov.ar, but I haven't been able to get that website to load. If that doesn't work for you either, you can pay the fee at a 3rd party agency for an extra $20 service charge. I used argentinareciprocityfee.org.

Just another step of bullshit travel $ hassles caused by those friendly folks at the TSA. :-/

Mike Sullivan · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 60

Hi Alex, I am kinda interested in the trek and the dates work out well for me, though not super psyched on the guide and the $1250 cost. Do you have any kind of route description and/or itinerary that you could email to me? zarmot@yahoo

Thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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