Storming the Castle
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Tony Schwartz, Chris Hirsch, Kyle Rott (Ground-up) 10/14 |
Page Views: | 971 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Chris Hirsch on Oct 12, 2014 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Similar to the Naked Rib with it's exposed arĂȘte climbing. The first pitch isn't deserving of the four stars but the 45 meter 2nd pitch certainly is! Mixed climbing with some distanced bolts. Not for the 5.10-limit leader, but great for anyone looking for more of a mental challenge at this grade.
1) 90' 5.10
Start up crack that fades away. Move up to bolts. Quite chossy below roof, but gets better over the lip. Clip some pitons, one bolt, small gear if you want it then to the anchors with a small stance.
2) 140' 5.10
Take off onto the narrow, steepening rib with few bolts. Lots of sidepulls on excellent rock through the crux. Sling some horns on easier terrain and stay right to get back onto arĂȘte. Easy finish to a nice belay.
1) 90' 5.10
Start up crack that fades away. Move up to bolts. Quite chossy below roof, but gets better over the lip. Clip some pitons, one bolt, small gear if you want it then to the anchors with a small stance.
2) 140' 5.10
Take off onto the narrow, steepening rib with few bolts. Lots of sidepulls on excellent rock through the crux. Sling some horns on easier terrain and stay right to get back onto arĂȘte. Easy finish to a nice belay.
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