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The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 76
James2 wrote:It's like a feeding frenzy on the front range, glad I don't live there.
So are we.
Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

Took the tools for a walk today in RMNP through the Loch all the way up to Sky Pond. Things are starting to form but these warm daytime temperatures are even keeping the north facing ice thin and interrupted. The forecast for this coming week doesn't show much improvement.

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401

Climbed to the base of Dark Star/Right Chimney on Meeker hoping to find some ice. No such luck. Just a couple of discontinuous smears off to the side. Ended up scrambling across the Flying Buttress and climbing the top half of Dreamweaver. 10' of WI3 ice at the crux, otherwise mostly snow.

B Gilmore · · AZ · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 1,260
Martin le Roux wrote:10' of WI3 ice at the crux, otherwise mostly snow.
I think that's about all it ever is, no?
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
seth0687 wrote:Thinking about smear or fields on longs this coming tues. Any current photos between now and then would be awesome, or beta from any of you monsters who already jumped on them this week. Cheers Seth
DW, TFD.

Long's, 10/19/14.

Long's, 10/19.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Martin le Roux wrote:Climbed to the base of Dark Star/Right Chimney on Meeker hoping to find some ice. No such luck. Just a couple of discontinuous smears off to the side. Ended up scrambling across the Flying Buttress and climbing the top half of Dreamweaver. 10' of WI3 ice at the crux, otherwise mostly snow.
I believe I ran into you gentlemen hiking down from chasm lake yesterday. Good talking with you.
Chris Gibbs · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

I dropped a pair of BD gloves over broadway yesterday above Alexanders. If anyone picked them up I love to get them back.

In other news, The Eigth Route was in shape in the lower pitches but the top slab finish was dry (and exciting M5/6(??)).

We saw ice back in the right chimney at the top but didn't investigate further. Also, the loft was look steep and fat.

Janette · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 230
Thatchtop 10/19/2014 - the Loch side.

Thatchtop 10/19/2014 - the Loch side. Took our tools for a walk before we went down for drytooling. Still pretty thin and dry. The recent 70s weather (in town) probably didn't help. With time though...!
James Dean Anderson · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2013 · Points: 146
Chris Gibbs wrote:I dropped a pair of BD gloves over broadway yesterday above Alexanders. If anyone picked them up I love to get them back.
Hey Chris, I don't have your gloves unfortunately but I did see both of them near the base of Alexanders Chimney in Lambs Slide. I would of picked them up but I thought somebody on Alexanders had dropped them and would pick them up on the way down. Good luck finding them!
Bill Mustard · · Silt, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 151

anybody been up alexander's chimney yet?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
WyomingSheepRanch wrote:anybody been up alexander's chimney yet?
I was told it was the best it's been in 10 years on Sunday. So there's that.
seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Scroll up. Lots of pics. I climbed Alexander's a week ago and it was awesome. Plenty of ice all the way up.

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
Scott McMahon wrote: I was told it was the best it's been in 10 years on Sunday. So there's that.
That would be truly something since last year, it was the best it's been in 20 years! :)
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Kevin Craig wrote: That would be truly something since last year, it was the best it's been in 20 years! :)
I heard it's the best it's been in 30 years!!! haha!!!
TJ Brumme · · Marrakech · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,648

Found this on Instagram:

Lincoln Falls, 10/21/2014.

Pete Lardy · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 75

Lincoln Falls pic courtesy of Pete Lardy's instagram (#pikespeakalpineschool). I was up there yesterday. Don't let the pic fool you. It's really wet, very little ice and a lot of loose rock in the main gully.

Alexey Dynkin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Martin le Roux wrote:Climbed to the base of Dark Star/Right Chimney on Meeker hoping to find some ice. No such luck. Just a couple of discontinuous smears off to the side. Ended up scrambling across the Flying Buttress and climbing the top half of Dreamweaver. 10' of WI3 ice at the crux, otherwise mostly snow.
What was pro like (if you used any)? Any need/possibility for screws? Also, if doing just DW would it be reasonable with one alpine axe and one second tool?
Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401
Alexey Dynkin wrote:What was pro like (if you used any)? Any need/possibility for screws? Also, if doing just DW would it be reasonable with one alpine axe and one second tool?
We didn't place any gear on Dreamweaver but there was enough ice at the crux for a couple of medium-length screws. It depends on your comfort level. I'm sure it could be climbed with one alpine axe and one technical tool, but a hydrid axe (BD Venom or similar) would be a better choice than a traditional alpine axe.

BTW it didn't look like there was continuous snow lower down the Dreamweaver gully (we went up the right side of the Flying Buttress and crossed over at the top of the buttress). If you go all the way up Dreamweaver there might be some loose scree.
sean o · · Northern, NM · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 48

I saw some apparently good ice below Crestone Peak last weekend, if you're up for a bit of a hike:

North side of Crestone Peak

Ice detail

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

What was your rack for Alexander's?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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