The Northeast 3 - Part 2

Jam packed with great footage from Rose Ledge, Happy Valley, and Smuggler's Notch!

newenglandbouldering.com/ne…

Sick, but they did the wrong line for Impossible Problem :(

I seem to remember reading somewhere (maybe in Kemple's guide) that there were several different ways of doing it, all of which were about the same difficulty???

The way in the video skips the last hard sequence of the climb which goes out right to a bad sidepull then bump right to a wrap around on the arrete. I've heard people say you're supposed to finish right and its kind of a cheater finish to go straight up from there. I've never tried that move in the video so I can't say if it is easier or not, though.

I will check Kemple's guide tonight and see what he has in there...

I just talked to Bill Patton. He said he originally went to the right to the arete, like I was saying, then tops out straight up the arete. He then said he most recently sent the problem as shown in the video and that "times change so do holds" so I guess its a legit top out. I think without trying it, it does look easier since getting that sidepull is like a second crux. Who knows, maybe the lip match is equally hard.

Good old Bill Patton. I used to climb with him back in the day at Lincoln Woods and the old Rhode Island Rock Gym!

Joe M. wrote:Good old Bill Patton. I used to climb with him back in the day at Lincoln Woods and the old Rhode Island Rock Gym!

Yup Bill is one cool dude. I definitely look up to him as a climber/developer. He's figured it all out, the balance between work, family, and climbing.

He recently put up 2 new FAs in Smuggs, he just told me the location of one of them and said it still had a sit start to go down, hoping to go check that out soon.

great ! the entire series is awesome thank you even the sound mix is in perfect balance!!

eddysamson wrote: Yup Bill is one cool dude. I definitely look up to him as a climber/developer. He's figured it all out, the balance between work, family, and climbing. He recently put up 2 new FAs in Smuggs, he just told me the location of one of them and said it still had a sit start to go down, hoping to go check that out soon.

Glad to hear he's still climbing strong!