Dog Eat Dog sportified?

I heard a rumor that Dog Eat Dog (13d on the huge roof over the S-Curves area, cover shot on the Ruckman guide) has been completely bolted, whereas it used to require some gear. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

We can only hope to be so lucky.... =)

Technically Dog Eat Dog has always been all bolts as it stops at the ramp... Maybe you mean the old pins on the traverse above on S-Curve Overhang have been retro-ed? These things were uninspiring at best.

Bonneville wrote:We can only hope to be so lucky.... =)

This isn't the Geezer wall. You're out of your element Donnie.

Bonneville wrote:We can only hope to be so lucky.... =)

Pick a side already you chode.

and John-

Were you planning on climbing this?
I didn't think so.

<3 Tom

Lol! I love you guys too. =)

Lucky or no, if it doesn't need gear that might give me a better chance of convincing someone else to get on it for photos. ;) That's my interest here, this route's just a wee bit above my pay grade, although now I'm curious about S-curve Overhang.

John Badila wrote:Lucky or no, if it doesn't need gear that might give me a better chance of convincing someone else to get on it for photos. ;) That's my interest here, this route's just a wee bit above my pay grade, although now I'm curious about S-curve Overhang.

The guidebook shows it ending at the ramp of S-curve overhang with a mention to jump off. I guess tackling a 5.10 traverse isn't all that appealing when you've crushed a 13d overhang. The route doesn't have an anchor and lowering off would require finishing on the other line...
If your photo ops isn't happening because your subjects are worried about the gear on the 5.10 following the bolted 13d section, they may not be up to the 13d part in the first place. Might as well recruit Bonneville to photoslut for you, I'm sure his elaborate thoughts about bolts vs trad would qualify him to clip in a hanger and hopelessly dangle there pretending to be making moves...

I'm always down for shenanigans that could potentially lead to death or dismemberment. And as for bolts or pro....it's all relative. ;)

On a side note I think Boissal may be the epitome of frustrated.

Nothing that concrete, I just want to know how this works before I ask somebody to get on it. I thought that "jump off" was talking about getting to the start of the route--the topo shows it starting from a two-bolt anchor in space, off to the left of S-Curve Overhang, and way above anything else. Didn't make sense to me. If one is meant to "jump off" rather than finish to anchors, how would you clean it?

Bonneville wrote:On a side note I think Boissal may be the epitome of frustrated.

You're like a fucking puppy with a new toy about that word. And you're using it incorrectly. Epitome of frustration would be proper. Not that grammatical considerations will do anything more than sail over your obtuse melon. The way you expressed your "thoughts" about the Geezer Wall, I'd be surprised if you could argue yourself away from the Slips. Which is a great thing.

John Badila wrote:I thought that "jump off" was talking about getting to the start of the route--the topo shows it starting from a two-bolt anchor in space, off to the left of S-Curve Overhang, and way above anything else. Didn't make sense to me. If one is meant to "jump off" rather than finish to anchors, how would you clean it?"

That wasn't my understanding but having never seen anyone up there I can't tell you how it's done. I think the anchor at the start is accessible from the bottom at 5.8 but I may be wrong. You may need to do the ramp first. As far as cleaning I imagine it would be a considerable pain in the ass. Especially if it involves lowering from a pin. Stuff like that tends to sport fixed draws these days.
I wonder how many ascents the route has seen. Or even attempts.

LOL! Oh you guys are just too easy! Thanks for the grammar lesson pops. And argue myself away from the slips? Well if it keeps me away from people such as yourself then I'd be more than happy to climb at that shit show everyday. =)

Scott at IME in salt lake could probably give you all the beta you need.

This may affect what people decide to do with the route in the future, so I'll record this here on the old thread, since I just saw it now.

DED has always been four bolts (no gear needed) to the point where it joins SCO, an already existing route, half way along its traverse. There were 3 options at this point - continue out the harder looking roof, finish up the last 5.10 section of SCO, or call it done when you hit SCO's traverse. I chose the latter.

So now, how to clean the gear. Two options here - add an anchor and lower off in the standard manner, or down jump the route.
The route is only 20 ft long and adding a belay in the middle of SCO (a 40' route) was something I wanted to avoid. Lowering off from an anchor would have actually made cleaning harder than down jumping. So, the method of cleaning is to down jump. Not hard to do.

I feel that adding a lower-off station at the junction with SCO would be a mistake and my wish would be to leave it as-is.

jw